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http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
Re: core idex feedback - 5 months ago
If you put the motors inside, it will be difficult to tension the motors because the 40x40 will interfere with screw placement. Good thing to visualize this in fusion.by mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: core idex feedback - 5 months ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Why can't you use a longer piece of 4040 for the bed support? How would I build in the springs to pull the bed down? It seems easier if the 4040 is flush with the bed ear. It's good to know the motors can be inside. That would make things easier. However with this method, I'll need to make the footprint larger. How much offset is required for the motors in relation toby mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
core idex feedback - 5 months ago
Hi All, I've was inspired by digital dentist's UMMD build. I used a lot of the design methodology to build a core idex printer. I'm about 85% finished in fusion 360 and wanted some feedback. I'll be using Duet 3 in the XYU configuration. This is a 400x400x500 build. Here are some specific questions. 1. How difficult is it going to be to keep both hotends aligned to the heatbed assuming all theby mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Which Kit? Railcore? SecKit? Other? - 1 year ago
Iv'e been trying to work on this when I have pockets of time. Here is what I am thinking for the belt layout to get the IDEX setup. With a 350x350x500 build volume, I was thinking the frame would be 580x580 assuming the x bearing blocks are about 50mm. I'll have to play with that a bit factoring in end stop and probably having end stops on the extruders so they don't collide. Any thoughts on thby mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Which Kit? Railcore? SecKit? Other? - 1 year ago
Thanks for the planning instructions. I didn't plan on using dual extruders, but I'm wondering how difficult it would be to have an IDEX setup. I've read about alignment issues with the hotend. Since this would be mostly metal it would be easier. Duet can support it. What are your thoughts on that? I know how to design parts in Fusion 360. I'll just need to learn how to add and assemble componenby mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Which Kit? Railcore? SecKit? Other? - 1 year ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist You won't need training on a lathe to build a UMMD copy. It's not entirely necessary to use a milling machine, either, though it can be very useful. Simple cuts and accurate, square drilling are the main uses for the mill- square up the ends and matching lengths of the frame pieces so that they bolt together squarely, and milling the perimeter of bed plate. You will wantby mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Which Kit? Railcore? SecKit? Other? - 1 year ago
Thanks for the helpful summary DD. I wil look into what you said. I.m going to reread your thread on this site. I started then got busy. I’ll also check your blog. Perhaps I can. Do this without too much time invested,by mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Which Kit? Railcore? SecKit? Other? - 1 year ago
Hi All, This may be an older thread but still applies to my questions. I have a Cartesian printer (clone prusa p3 steel). I want to build a CoreXY with a 350x350x400 give or take. My city recently opened a nice maker space, and I was going to build something like the UMMD. But I don’t know if I’ll have the time to put into it. There is some appeal for me to learn how to use shop tools like the lby mlaustin66 - CoreXY Machines
Re: thermistor ferrule alternative - 6 years ago
Thanks all for your suggestions. There is a hobby store in town that I went to. They had aluminum tubing rods that were around 1.5mm inside diameter. I cut them to 10mm sizes with a dremel, and it worked perfectly.by mlaustin66 - General
Re: thermistor ferrule alternative - 6 years ago
I know I can order them. I was looking for a quick fix to get it working today.by mlaustin66 - General
thermistor ferrule alternative - 6 years ago
I need to replace a thermistor and only have 1 crimp ferrule. It seems that no local stores carry something that small. Are there any alternatives?by mlaustin66 - General
Re: Jamming question - 7 years ago
Here is an example of what is happening. It was worse on other prints. So starts out great, jams, and limited flow out of the nozzle unlike the start. Extruder works fine when filament is outside of hotend.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 7 years ago
Do you mean the hotend transistor? I don't see how a driver would be the issue as the only driver in the mix is the extruder driver, which works fine. But if the hotend transistor was failing, I would think the thermistor would pick up the fluctuations. Do you have a link to that thread? It would be worth checking out. I'm still thinking it is the hotend. I say this because it starts toby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Extruder skipping in a pattern - 7 years ago
Many times the extruder skipping is because of a hot end jam. I’m having a problem with my E3Dv6 right now caused by heat creep. The heat from the heat zone creeps up the hotend causing the filament not in the hot zone to soften. Then the extruder cannot push the filament throught because it’s too soft causing it to jame. Keepting the fan blowing is key, and you can see if this is a prbblem bby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 7 years ago
Spoke too soon. Jammed again 1/3 of the way through a print. Not a fan of E3D.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 7 years ago
Sure enough, it is heat creep. I checked the ohms on the thermistor, and it was close to 100K. I had the original fan lying around (I had replaced it with a quieter one with close to the CFM output). The new fan must have started to fail. I can't believe this hotend is that sensitive. I'll be replacing this hotend soon.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 7 years ago
E3dv6 is mentioned in my body. It is a bowden style. Yes there is a fan. It is in the front to pull in the coldest air (had it in the back which sucked). I cleared the nozzle with piano wire. My retract is 4mm, but as I've said I had no issues with this. It's PETG, so it needs more. And the bowden tube is not short (but not too long). I just checked the fins, and they are cool to the toucby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Jamming question - 7 years ago
E3dv6 is mentioned in my body. It is a bowden style. Yes there is a fan. It is in the front to pull in the coldest air (had it in the back which sucked). I cleared the nozzle with piano wire. My retract is 4mm, but as I've said I had no issues with this. It's PETG, so it needs more. And the bowden tube is not short (but not too long). I just checked the fins, and they are cool to the toucby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Jamming question - 7 years ago
I’ve been good at identifying and fixing problems on my P3 steel. It’s been working flawlessly until last night. The extruder starting skipping, which usually means a jam on my machine. I noticed this 2 hours after, so I cleaned out the extruder. Filament moves fine outside of the hotend. What I noticed before cleaning is that there were blobs of hard plastic on the heat bed from dripping. Wheby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Filiment not extruding - 7 years ago
QuoteSteveRoy Quotemlaustin66 . PLA is a bitch to print, at least it is for me with an e3d v6. The filament for me kept jamming up, so I cannot print with it. Does the extruder skip? That is a sign of a jam and filament stripping. When using PLA you must have a cooling fan blowing air across the fins of the hot-end so there is no heat creep up the throat. Heat creep causes the PLA to jamb.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: heatbed question - 7 years ago
I have a smootieboard clone, so the mosfets are pretty huge. It still managed to burn out the terminal block and shut down the board. Luckily the mosfet doesn't look blown. So an external mosfet will probably do little. A RAMPS board wasn't so kind, and I ended up blowing about 3 of them which made me switch. The other option is an mk3 heatbed. Then I need to buy another print bite surfaby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
heatbed question - 7 years ago
I have an aluminum build plate with a silicone heater. The silicone heater keeps burning things up on the circuit board from too much power draw, so I am going to replace it. Since I have print bite on the aluminum, I was going to attach an MK2 PCB heatbed to it. Would I attach it with heat transfer tape? Or is there some other method to follow?by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Filiment not extruding - 7 years ago
Are the screws for the filament feed tensioner tight enough but not too tight? The filament should not have a dent in it from the bearing. I use a bowden extruder, so this is referencing my setup. PLA is a bitch to print, at least it is for me with an e3d v6. The filament for me kept jamming up, so I cannot print with it. Does the extruder skip? That is a sign of a jam and filament strippinby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: extruder skipping need help - 7 years ago
I always like to come back with resolutions if I can. I replaced the hotend fan. That helped a little. It got the PETG to print again. Unfortunately, the PLA continues to jam. So I will be avoiding PLA.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: extruder skipping need help - 7 years ago
I'm at my wits end trying to troubleshoot this. It wouldn't be a PLA issue because of PETG because I get the same problem with PETG. It never did this before. I tried to mess with a few things. I messed around with E acceleration, and no change. I messed around with E voltage and no change. I tried to change the E spring tension, and no change (loose did nothing, and various tight settingsby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
extruder skipping need help - 7 years ago
I have a P3 Steel that was running great with PETG in the past. I'm running smoothieware. I have a bowden setup with a tube that's approximately 380mm. When things were running fine, I had retraction set to 6mm at 150mm a second with the extruder acceleration at 5000mm/s2. The effective retraction at the hotend looks to be between 2mm and 3mm. Like I said, zero problems printing with this seby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China - 8 years ago
I didn't think about doing that as my other z stepper is using that driver. I guess I can quickly put them in parallel to test the E1 driver. Thanks for the suggestion.by mlaustin66 - Controllers
Re: New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China - 8 years ago
Hello, I just switched from Ramps and Repetier to the MKS and Smoothie. I've had a bunch of issues. Most have been resolved, but there are a couple of lingering issues I was hoping to get help with. I have a Prusa I3 clone. I'm having issues with endstops. Homing works fine. But if I kit the end stop it doesn't recognize to stop. Do I need to set this up as a limit switch? Also with Repeby mlaustin66 - Controllers
Re: heater decoupled mid print - 8 years ago
I have a similar heatbed and heater, butt not the same brand. When I switched out all the Mosfets to better ones on the prior Ramps, they were warm to the touch not steaming hot. The problem is it's a pain in the ass to switch Mosfets and easy to damage the conductor pads on the PCB. That board ran great until something else fried on it. So I'm over arduino/Ramps.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: heater decoupled mid print - 8 years ago
I thought I'd post an update to this thread. It ended up being a fan control board on that particular Ramps 1.4 board. I took out the fan control board, and it ran flawlessly for a while. I had replaced the Mosfets for better Mosfets as well as I have a 200W silicone heater, and the original Fets feel like they are going to melt...super hot. Had to put in another Ramps 1.4 board for various rby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants