Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX Hey guys, I have been running into an issue and am hoping someone can help. I attached a picture, I'm getting gaps in my outer shell, I'm getting them with two different brands of filament, and can't seem to pinpoint the cause. The layers are stuck well, I can't pull anything apart, I've messed with retraction in both directions with no effect, raised extrusion width alby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys, I have been running into an issue and am hoping someone can help. I attached a picture, I'm getting gaps in my outer shell, I'm getting them with two different brands of filament, and can't seem to pinpoint the cause. The layers are stuck well, I can't pull anything apart, I've messed with retraction in both directions with no effect, raised extrusion width also with no effect. HELP!by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I have been working on my rework for well over a month now and think I have it pretty good. Everything is solid, I have it bridging really well at 30mm, haven't tested much more than that but I think it will do double that fine. I will post a link to my STLs here but it is also in the migbot wiki if you need it in the future without digging through here. DISCLAIMER: I can not take credit fby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger QuoteCrackinX I stopped messing around with PCB and aluminum plates and just bought an MK3 bed Heating element built right into an aluminum bed. put glass on top and it takes anything I can throw at it. You should have been here a couple weeks ago Lol, yeah sorry. Also if your heater takes too long to heat up I would suggest getting a second 24v supply to run the bed off of.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
I stopped messing around with PCB and aluminum plates and just bought an MK3 bed Heating element built right into an aluminum bed. put glass on top and it takes anything I can throw at it.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx OK Migbot users - The Migbot now has a Wiki entry at I'm still in the process of updating and adding to it, but it basically has a breakdown of what the Migbot is and some basic FAQ. If anyone has upgrades no matter how small, could you drop me a message with a link to them so I can add them to the Wiki page, or alternatively, you can add them yourself. QuoteCrackinX Well here is my Mby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
EDIT: Scratch that, I found the issue. Had a intermittent broken wire. OK, having another issue, I can heat my hotend up just fine when pre heating, but if i try to print something it starts and then i get a min temp error. Thermistor tests ok, Will sit at 200 rock solid if just heating from pronterface.... I'm confused. I want to check if it is the board, can someone tell me how I can switchby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX QuotegatorNic QuoteCrackinX I actually just broke down and ordered an mk3 bed I'm going to swap over to the 3 point leveling, run the 12v line off a dedicated 24v supply with an ssr, and put the glass on top. The new bed being an integrated aluminum plate will solve the sensor issue as well. cool. good luck! Well Epic fail on the SSR, MK3 bed heated up in about 2 miby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotegatorNic QuoteCrackinX I actually just broke down and ordered an mk3 bed I'm going to swap over to the 3 point leveling, run the 12v line off a dedicated 24v supply with an ssr, and put the glass on top. The new bed being an integrated aluminum plate will solve the sensor issue as well. cool. good luck! Well Epic fail on the SSR, MK3 bed heated up in about 2 minutes to 100 and then justby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotegatorNic QuoteCrackinX The sensor I have is an 8MM type, I have a glass plate but I'm not sure if the sensor will detect the aluminum even through the 3mm glass, I'm thinking of picking up some sheet metal as an underlayment, which should sense just fine. My plate is not THAT warped so I have been getting along ok with a 9 point autolevel. Well then I think 16point would be a bit overkill.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotegatorNic QuoteCrackinX Also I think I'm going to try and make the 18MM bed sensor mount a bit as it is too far away from the nozzle to get a 16 point auto level. Any questions please feel free to ask The only reason to do a 16 point autolevel is if you have a warped metal bed. I had one, it was painful. Even 16 point wasn't working all that well. Save yourself the agony and get a qualitby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Well here is my Migbot rework thus far, still a few more items to make to get the rats nest of wires sorted out but I have included all the STL files I have made/reworked for it. there are 28 wire chain bits on the x axis, 17 on the Z. Also I think I'm going to try and make the 18MM bed sensor mount a bit shorter as it is too far away from the nozzle to get a 16 point auto level. Most of theseby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee Quick question, What do you guys do to prevents the bearings from coming out of the X-carriage during a print? mine slide out when it is moving. print new parts that are in spec, most of the printed parts the migbot came with are crap.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 I am having a recurring problem with the hot end. The Throat continues to become loose. I have replaced the grub screw. I tighten it and use medium thread lock compound but it still gets loose. When it gets loose it starts hitting the object being printed and will knock it off, or the nozzle will hang inside an object and the printer skips steps on the X Yby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 I am having a recurring problem with the hot end. The Throat continues to become loose. I have replaced the grub screw. I tighten it and use medium thread lock compound but it still gets loose. When it gets loose it starts hitting the object being printed and will knock it off, or the nozzle will hang inside an object and the printer skips steps on the X Y axis. The entire hot endby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Is anybody else having issues with wired burning out? I have now had 2 pins burn out on my extruder stepper, I can't seem to find any replacement cables so I have just been hacking in wires from old 2D printers.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBymp Hello All, I have the Prusa I3 kit and after a few set backs (Missing Hardware - Bad SD Card) .... I finally have everything together except 1 thing I purchase the Auto Leveling kit sensor with this kit but I do not know where to wire it to? Can someone advise the correct slot to install the OMKQN Sensor to? Thank you, J It plugs into your z- endstop. Also replaces said endstop.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 I would appreciate input about the bed leveling problem I am having (or think I am having). After bed leveling today the first layer in the middle of the bed was OK. The 1st layer on the right side of the bed was so tight that the extruder motor started clicking. I killed the print and issued a G28, it was OK. I checked the distance between the Y-axis rods and the X-axis rods and theby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
OK so the ACME screws vibrating on the frame has annoyed me so I made some top bushing plugs. They help keep them straight and cut down vibration a bunch. I have included the STL if anybody is interested in trying them.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX Hey guys, I have got my migbot all set up and printing pretty good at this point, bed centered in firmware, auto-leveling running properly. Just one issue everything is printing mirror image from what it should be, if I print something with text on it it comes out completely backwards. Any ideas what the issue might be? I can say that all my stepper plug wby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX Hey guys, I have got my migbot all set up and printing pretty good at this point, bed centered in firmware, auto-leveling running properly. Just one issue everything is printing mirror image from what it should be, if I print something with text on it it comes out completely backwards. Any ideas what the issue might be? I can say that all my stepper plug wires are in thby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekareem613 It never changes. Always on. Or do you mean varying in brightness? on some sensors the light is dim when powered and bright when triggered, some are on and off. if the light changes at all then it is probably triggering properly. If you are using a sensor that is not the one that came with the auto leveling version then you probably need to do some voltage modifying or some such.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX having a little issue, when a print is finished it turns heat off to the nozzle but keeps heating the bed. A little worried about this any ideas how to fix it? There should be M140 S0 ; Disable heated bed command in the end G-code section of your slicer. That was exactly the issue, It seems Slic3r doesn't have that by default. It has the M104 for the nozzle but not thby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
having a little issue, when a print is finished it turns heat off to the nozzle but keeps heating the bed. A little worried about this any ideas how to fix it?by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys, I have got my migbot all set up and printing pretty good at this point, bed centered in firmware, auto-leveling running properly. Just one issue everything is printing mirror image from what it should be, if I print something with text on it it comes out completely backwards. Any ideas what the issue might be? I can say that all my stepper plug wires are in the same order, all plugs onby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 Quotekaffemustasj QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX I'm having an issue as well with my Auto leveling in almost the same way as above, I have my sensor hooked to 12V and a V divider so the signal wire outputs about 4.5V, it is Normally closed so outputs 4.5V when NOT triggered. I have the endstop inverted in the firmware pullup disabledby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 Quotekaffemustasj QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX I'm having an issue as well with my Auto leveling in almost the same way as above, I have my sensor hooked to 12V and a V divider so the signal wire outputs about 4.5V, it is Normally closed so outputs 4.5V when NOT triggered. I have the endstop inverted in the firmware pullup disabled and all that.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 Quotekaffemustasj QuoteCrackinX Quotegwc2795 QuoteCrackinX I'm having an issue as well with my Auto leveling in almost the same way as above, I have my sensor hooked to 12V and a V divider so the signal wire outputs about 4.5V, it is Normally closed so outputs 4.5V when NOT triggered. I have the endstop inverted in the firmware pullup disabled and all that. My issue is that when hookby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteCrackinX this is the power supply i replaced the crap one with. Works well. Does anybody happen to have any insight on my issue with the proximity sensor? I have double, triple and even quadruple checked everything and it all seems to be right, yet will not work. I've really no clue on this one.. I bought the 2nd Migbot without auto levelling and ended up getting this, which is tby CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants
this is the power supply i replaced the crap one with. Works well. Does anybody happen to have any insight on my issue with the proximity sensor? I have double, triple and even quadruple checked everything and it all seems to be right, yet will not work.by CrackinX - Prusa i3 and variants