QuoteRoxy QuoteBoffster QuoteWilberMaker Working thru my problems one at a time and having fun. Can anyone recommend a good working adjustable Z end stop fpr my folger 2020 i3? Printed out two and not pleased with how they work. Similar to what Roxy suggested above, when printing a new x-carriage due to a leadscrew upgrade, I took the opportunity to add a small section to the bottom that would tby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Just saw this - Pusa i3 MK2 Release From the link: QuoteNew features: New HeatBed MK42! Hassle free PEI print surface Integrated leadscrew Z axis Full mesh bed auto leveling Improved construction Faster printing and more materials with E3D V6Full Improved firmware and printer self test Slicer support including Windows 10 I'm guessing quite a few people on here are pretty close to those specsby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Working thru my problems one at a time and having fun. Can anyone recommend a good working adjustable Z end stop fpr my folger 2020 i3? Printed out two and not pleased with how they work. Similar to what Roxy suggested above, when printing a new x-carriage due to a leadscrew upgrade, I took the opportunity to add a small section to the bottom that would take an M3 bolt. Makes iby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril The 156 pages of this thread make me order it as my first 3d Printer It should arrive next week, hopping that custom fees - I'm in Canada - won't be too much (not idea how much that will be ). I'm not afraid to tinkle to make it works the right way. Thanks to it looks like a good start. There is also some nice stuff here: But I still have one quesiton: Quote We need to addressby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Bert3D! Exactly what I was looking for. Guess I didn't go digging enough, knew the retract had be coded somewhere! Thanks again for the code change!by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone used the 'change filament' option via the LCD? (Needs to be enabled in Marlin first) It moves the print head out of the way correctly and retracts the filament, but after I've swapped filaments and clicked the LCD button to continue it does another retract after moving back to the correct position. This results in several empty layers printing before the new filament reaches the nozby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 question: does anyone season their Hotend's? like dab some olive oil on filament before they print? I've put a few drops of light oil in the sponge of my filament filter, but honestly haven't noticed any difference....by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy I usually use for a better estimate Bookmarked! Thanks for the link!by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander I had an itch caused by not attaching the lower bolts to the bottom of the motor mounts... Nice! I had the same itch, but I made some new Rod Holder Plates with a smaller hole for the threaded rod (I'm using Z-motor standoffs) and the hole for the straight rod centered to the screw holes. I can share the STL if anyone wants it....by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Repetier has been updated to 1.6.1. Linkby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGrouchoDuke Quotewidespreaddeadhead Get a print fan on that. It'll make all the difference for PLA. I've been meaning to add a fan for similar issues. What's the best print fan for the stock FT setup? I've printed this one as it provides cooling from both sides, although I haven't installed it yet due to using PETG.by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
I went with these ones to raise the motors due to issues with the other model linked above.by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethebabymaker Just curious, how long does it take you to heat up your bed to 100C? It's been taking me almost an hour, which just doesn't seem right. It shouldn't take that long. Mine was taking about 12-15 minutes to get to 105 when I was using ABS (from around 16-20c when cold). Some cardboard on top of the glass will help a little bit, but there is some other problem if it's taking anby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix My x axis motor is really hot, should I be worried if it gets over 40c? I mean 50c, gets hotter than I thought. I also noticed my X motor getting hot (a lot hotter than the others). So I readjusted the stepper driver. I have it turned down really low (much lower than I thought was needed - around 180 I think) which has the added benefit of making it A LOT quieter. If you don't haveby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Z backlash: The weight of the X Carriage is not always enough, resistances caused by poor rod alignment and poor bearing movement. If the X Carriage sticks at all coming down it will lag on the way back up. Once it's catches up and the slack is gone I would agree, it is along for the ride and should stay on point. I believe it becomes much more critical when you are running autoby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBoffster Wow this thread's getting busy! I'm hoping to change over to lead screws this weekend now all the bits have finally arrived but wanted to check with others regarding backlash. Wouldn't the weight of the X carriage eliminate any backlash as (thanks to gravity) it's always pulling down on the brass nut? When actually printing, the Z axis is only moving in one direction anyway... Isby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Also, did any of your RAMPS boards come with header pins on the 12v AUX connection? Went to plug a fan in last night and realised there's no pins there! Another job for the weekend...by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Wow this thread's getting busy! I'm hoping to change over to lead screws this weekend now all the bits have finally arrived but wanted to check with others regarding backlash. Wouldn't the weight of the X carriage eliminate any backlash as (thanks to gravity) it's always pulling down on the brass nut? When actually printing, the Z axis is only moving in one direction anyway... Is my understandby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe For those interested, I just published the X-Axis (Gen-1) upgrade to THINGI Big thanks to the therippa for his comments and remixes. I have also updated the Wikia page. I have the X-Axis Gen-2 running on my printer and love the setup, so smooth and so compact. Although it works great for a Bowden Hotend, I am trying to come up with a suitable design for a Direct Drive Extruder fby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe This is great advice, maybe we should add a trouble shooting section to the Wikia Page!?!? I think would be a huge benefit to have a definitive build guide and configuration.h that the majority agree on that we can point people to (here and from the wiki), that way everyone will have the same setup and same config starting out. E.g. Endstops on Min and Stepper cables all connecteby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChrisryn QuoteBoffster Homing Bump This is normal in all aspects of homing from CNC's to the advance measuring equipment I use daily. Both my touch and optical CMM are shut down in their last position. When starting up in the morning they need to be homed. They will travel at a higher rate of speed till they bump the end stops then they will back off and home again at a slower rate ofby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Homing Bump I’ve been cleaning up my config.h and noticed that if I DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS (I’m using X Min endstop on the left, so I have no Max endstops at all) then I will get a ‘bump’ when homing (home, retract short distance, re-home). After further investigation it seems this is intended behaviour:- Configuration_adv.h (Marlin 1.0.2) //homing hits the endstop, then retracts by this distanby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds to me like an electrical problem - have you checked over the RAMPS and Arduino boards for any obvious shorts? If the COM port is lost then probably Arduino...by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
No probs, the encoder changes are worth doing aswell (was for me on the 12864 anyway).by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
LCD ENCODER (KNOB/BUTTON) FIX I found that the encoder was operating backwards for me (having to turn it anti-clockwise instead of clockwise) and also I didn't have fine control as it would jump 4 steps at a time (e.g. using the LCD display to move the X axis 1mm would actually move it 4mm for each click of the encoder) The following changes (found online) fixed both issues for me: Reversed Diby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Damn you're quick! Will you be trying all 3 block designs? Would be interesting to see the difference with heat dissipation. Good luck anyway!by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Just checked out the chimera hotend, from the pics it looks like the nozzles are at the same height so why would you need different Z heights? I really like the look of your design, can't wait to see how it performs! Hopefully there won't be too much heat seeping between the main blocks - if it does turn out to be a problem maybe a fin or two on the neck might help? I was going to suggest a heby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Did my first print last night! Did E-steps calibration first and I had to flip the connector for the extruder as it was running backwards. Printed this distance and square test piece on thingiverse: Square, Known Distance Calibration Tool Very happy with the results! Edit: Some of the images wouldn't load so here's the Imgur link PLA (FolgerTech sample, think it's Atomic) on glass @185/60, 0.3by Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJim72 OK, I read the entire thread, for other noobs it starts getting more informative (ie. less complaining about quality and shipping) in the page 30's and beyond. However, there is good information in the first 30 pages as well. There is one thing I do not recall seeing mentioned. If one plans to use the LCD, is it better for any reason to consider power up and downloading the programs iby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants
Just wanted to put a positive post up as naturally a lot of the posts here are only when there are problems... Finished my build last night and everything seems to be working correctly! Have checked everything using manual controls in Repetier and all seems good! As a starting point I set the X, Z, E drivers to ~0.370v and Y driver to ~0.550v. X endstop on left hand side. All axes home correcby Boffster - Prusa i3 and variants