I just got and assembled my FLSun i3 plus auto. Surprise surprise after about 30 minutes of the bed being at 60 degrees the acrylic y axis carriage started to sag. I am trying to find an aluminium carriage to fit the 300x300mm bed but I have have no luck what so ever. Anyone know where I can buy a carriage that will fit? The holes that mount to the heat bed are spaced about 240mm I am also goiby jnsbanman - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Z screws bent? Does it produce the same "wave" on all prints?by jnsbanman - Printing
Has anyone removed the stock hotend and added a E3D v6 hotend or similar full metal hotend? I would like to be able to print materials hotter then 260c so I need a full metal hotend. And seems like the V6 is probably the best. Just not sure if the stock mounting plate can be used or if I need to make something up or find something on thingiverse. Open to suggestions for other full metal hotendsby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
I had issues like this myself and it turned out it was the drivers overheating... They did not seem super hot to the touch but a threw a fan and a makeshift air duct blowing on all the stepper driver heatsinks and that stopped the shifting.by jnsbanman - Printing
Ok so that being said it should have been calibrated properly as it took 100mm off the roll when I had the steps at 191. I am confused lol In slicer my extrusion multiplier is 1, extrusion widths are all automatic, nozzle size is correct. Does it matter that I told it to extrude from the printer panel and not from with in repetier host? 100mm is 100mmby jnsbanman - General
I have a Zonestar P802M with Melzi board, repetier software, with a direct feed MK8. Out of the box it comes with the extruder Steps per MM set to 90. I Took off the nozzle, aligned the filament flush with the bottom of the heater block. I told it to extrude 100mm. It extruded about 50 so I upped the steps per mm. 191 seemed to be the magic number where it would push 100mm extactly. So I put eveby jnsbanman - General
I use the glass from an 8 x 10 picture frame with a little glue stick and or ABS jucie PLA sticks amazing. The glass is only like 3mm so I have to be careful removing my prints but this glass is the best print surface I have used to date. I have not ventured to print ABS on it as I do not image it would handle the 100+ degree heat very well. No more wasting money on tapes. Best part is I got 2by jnsbanman - Reprappers
Well as it turns out my X and Y axis were out about 0.2 - 0.5 out on their movement over 50mm... So i have a tuning session last night and got it to with 0.01 - 0.05mm on both X and Y axis. My Z axis was almost dead on 49.99mm moved when told to move 50mm. After tuning that up and levelling the bed to 0.2mm using a feeler gauge (previously was at 0.127mm) I printed a 20mm test cube and it came ouby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quick poll... What is everyone using as their steps per mm for their extruder (original mk8). Mine is currently set to 90 but it is grossly over extruding on solid layers.by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have a fan running? If it not under extruding then it looks like the layers are not adhering together.by jnsbanman - Printing
When I print items with holes on the z axis they come out ever so slightly squashed... Maybe only the amount of a few layers. If my nozzle is set to 0.127mm above the bed should that number be in the z axis offset since Z 0 is actually 0.127mm below what it thinks is 0? Should that number be negative or positive?by jnsbanman - General
Hello again all.. I am getting slightly out of round holes on the Z axis. I have done the Z axis upgrade to 1 stepper/belt on my printer. The pulleys on the motor and 2 lead screws are all the same number of teeth, belt is reasonable tight. My steps per mm is set to 400 as per all the calculators. I have my Z offset at 0 but i set the nozzle to approximately 0.127mm above the bed... should thatby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
What material is that? What temps are your bed and hot end? Are you printing too fast?by jnsbanman - Printing
The 3d star seller has been like that for me... He has not stopped responding to me as I have had several issues with my printer and demanded replacement parts. He was very resistant to sending replacement parts. But I guess what do you expect when you scrape the bottom of the price barrel.by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRoger123D ok let me enlighten you if you had only one receptacle on the board and you have 2 Z steppers then the black and blue from Stepper 1 go out to plug you hook up , the red and green from Stepper 2 go to that same plug. Now the red from Stepper 1 gets twisted to the blue from Stepper 2. Then the green from Stepper 1 gets twisted to the black on Stepper 2. the twisted wires do not go tby jnsbanman - General
QuoteRoger123D Simple solution cut plug off unused stepper few inches long put stepper away take plug with the 4 wires strip off some insulation plug it into the board and find which Z axis receptacle gives you a voltage on the black while telling the Z to go up and down once you find it take the stepper you are using cut the black and blue wire and connect to this plug then take the plug alreadyby jnsbanman - General
I have a Prusa i3 Variant (Zonestar P802M). It has a Melzi V2 board with 2 Z Axis stepper plugs. I recently upgrade my Z axis to 1 stepper and belt system. When only 1 stepper is plugged in the Z axis does not move when given instruction. Its like its not there at all. As soon as I plug in the second stepper and have it sitting off to the side it works just fine. Does anyone know how to make tby jnsbanman - General
Quotemadias If everything went wrong you can just adding some load resistors instead of the second stepper I think this is what I might have to do... Trick the board in to believing it has 2 motors connect when there is only one. There are 2 plugs on the board for the Z Axis so its not quite the same as the X,Y and Extruder. Edit: I have confirmed that the second plug must be modified to makeby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias Ok, I'm sure you'll have to setup the motor current for the single z-motor (I think the current is much too high, because the driver current was calculated for driving two motors): Connect only one motor and try out different trim poti settings (but stay within v-min and v-max!!!) until the motor runs smoothly. Begin at 0.4V and then turn it up I had done this a while ago... My vreby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias So you must have the two steppers physically connected - so one stepper is build in on the top of the new thing, and the second stepper is just lying around? Yes it is sitting beside the machine That's totally strange, only possible thing is, that you really have to adjust the vref of the stepper. So again: "Normally" both z-axis motors are running and if you disconnected one (have yby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias jnsbanman : There is no need to "tell the board" something, because the z-steppers are parallel connected to one driver output. Just disconnect the secondary z-stepper. If one stepper hasn't enough torque (or too much), you'll need to fine adjust the driver output. But I really see no benefit from this construction, but perhaps I'm wrong (I had never problems with the z-axis on my priby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone done the Z axis upgrade to this printer? This one fromThingiverse. I just finished this one this weekend. It is all working very well I must admit. The Z axis stays perfectly aligned... My question is how to I tell the board to operate the Z axis with only 1 motor plugged in. I currently still have both Z axis motors connected otherwise it will not work.by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteglimpse79 These nozzle: are good for P802M? They should work fine.by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
My Y axis skipping issue... I got a couple good prints then it failed again... I found that if I engaged the steppers and tried to move the 7 Y axis by hand it was very difficult to move towards the front of the printer... When I tried to move it towards the back the belt would slack a bit then it would slip on the pulley. The pulley is not slipping on motor shaft... That much I am certain of.by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
So I started a print this evening and I paid close attention to the stepper drivers... Boy they got hot real fast like under a minute. I can imagine after 8 hours of printing what the board would be like... So I hooked up an 80mm fan with decent flow and pointed it at the stepper drivers. Lets see if this print makes it thru the night. They seemed to have cooled off very quickly. I checked the vby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
I can pretty much guarantee it was not the spool... that would have cause a missed step in the x axis and everything is still nicely aligned in the x axis. I am going to double check my voltage on the y axis and check my y axis belt this evening.by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
I am pretty sure it is not too loose... but could be too tight for the small 5 mm shaft. I would not think it would be the z axis as looking at the piece closely that failed... each layer is printed properly just not in the correctly y axis location. The z axis appears to keep moving up properly. If you look at the picture the infill on the right half of the picture its printing nicely then loby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
I had checked the voltages back when I assembled the printer in December and set them to 0.8v. But I will double check tonight. I have not had any real issues printing until the last few days. I have not changed anything in terms of the setup. I know my belt is nice and snug as I gave it a strum to make sure it was tight when I took a pic of the failed print... maybe its too tight?by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
All of the sudden my printer has start to shift on the Y axis mid print after several hours of printing. Attached is a photo of what it looks like... It will shift in the same direction it seems every time then resume printing normally for a few layers then shift again etc etc... anyone know whats going on here?by jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedsol @jnsbanman i think 0.1 is a bit much, try getting 0.01-0.05 at max all you need to do is to change the esteps for the axis from the eeprom (what you got / what you want) * corent estep = new estep so... (20.4/20) * axis estep from eeprom = new estep to insert the eeprom repeat untill you got something you can live with about the z axis.. had that probleme, its just that for some reasoby jnsbanman - Prusa i3 and variants