The tool is cross platform as long as you have Node.js so you'll need to install that first. Once you download and install node.js on any OS you can install the tool by doing "sudo npm -g i marlin-conf" from the command line (well, windows you don't need the 'sudo' but probably do need to be an admin) Then you can just follow the instructions in the tools Readme: It seems to work fairly wby jhitesma - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoxy Incidentally... There is a Quick Start guide available now... Bob-the-Kuhn wrote it. If you search a little bit at www.github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin you should be able to find it. I've been trying to figure out UBL all weekend without much luck. I found Bob-the-Khun's guide here: And that did seem to help me generate a mesh. But...doesn't really explain how to use the mesh.by jhitesma - Firmware - Marlin
Replied to you on my blog...but I'd say check that the gear on the extruder stepper isn't slipping on the shaft. It's not uncommon for the grub screw(s) to be loose and if that gear can turn on the shaft then it can't push filament.by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
I found I needed higher temps after swapping to the e3d (full not lite) which is probably due to the thermister reading more accurately. I suspect on the stock one the thermister wasn't making as good contact so the melt zone was actually higher than the thermister was indicating (which would also explain how I managed to melt my stock PTFE liner despite never seeing a temp over 240c on the hotby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCreativeBR jhitesma, great info here. You have a very nice modded i3. I will get there. 8) I will think about these changes. It will be very helpful in a near future. By now i prefer to start with a FW more close to the default Folger Prusa i3 (only with that 2004 LCD and bed autolevel). Thank you for help. It will be useful in a very near future i'm sure. Thanks, I have more mods plannedby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCreativeBR Quotejhitesma I also updated to Marlin RC6 (here's my branch for it on Github: I actually had to make a few more minor changes to the configuration.h after that, I'll try to remember to push them up at lunch. And as with my other setups this is with leadscrews and inductive sensor using my latest mount: on this extruder: ) LCD seems to work much nicer in RC6 and I like theby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril You have some merge conflict that needs to be fixed if you want to make it works Yeah, I fixed those locally last night but forgot to push it to github when I was done. I'll be taking lunch in an hour or so and will try to remember to push my latest changes. Would do it from remote but apparently that computer rebooted overnight and I have to login again to get RDP re-enabledby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Well guys looks like I win the moron of the week award. Figured out why I was having issues with every arudino mega I flashed. My RAMPS wasn't killing them...I was just being dense and had it in my head that Marlin used 115200 baud by default. Um...no...it uses 250000 from the Marlin page in the reprap wiki: Quote The default baudrate is 250000. Because this baudrate is directly derived fromby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander It sounds like the mega has some power issue, maybe a faulty voltage regulator on the mega. I have a bad regulator right now and my temp fix is a powered USB 2.0 hub. Is the amperage for the C.H.I.P. power supply up to the task, or does it derive power from the Ramps through the mega board? Some of my old USB chargers are rated way too low in amperage. Are the MOSFETS on theby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone know what could cause my RAMPS to start messing up arduinos? I use a $9 C.H.I.P (www.getchip.com) as a printer server running repetier-server to control my 2020 i3. Had been working flawlessly for a month, then suddenly last Thursday it shut down with no warning with 10 minutes to go in a print. Since then I've had a pile of problems. I reflashed the OS on the C.H.I.P re-installed rep-by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotejhitesma Thanks. Oh, and just in case I came across too harsh...Overall I like it and would say it's an improvement over stock. My criticisms are just because I'm pretty much never satisfied and always looking to make things better - which means first identifying what can be improved No worries! I actually have the same issues with this: "The filament is constrainby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 Awesome, thanks a lot for the info. I have a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX that I have done nothing with yet, it's a 8mm NPN NO Switch 6-36VDC, I was thinking of just doing a mount for it and giving it a try. Would gluing some HD aluminum sheets to the back side of the glass work? I'm thinking that since the glass surface is what I want level making sure the aluminum sensed is parallel to the glby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
I wrote up some more details about my experiences setting up auto level on my blog: I also included links at the end to a number of other sources of information that I relied on when figuring out how to get it working. Please feel free to point out anything I left out or any glaring errors - I just tossed this post together since it's such a popular topic. I didn't try to rehash the existiby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 What material can the sensor work with? What happens if you cover the glass with spray or blue tape? An inductive sensor needs metal. It works best with ferrous metal like steel, but can detect aluminum as well. I use hairspray on my glass but there'd be no problem with glue or blue tape either...unless... If you're using a 4mm distance sensor then it may not be sensitive enougby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead @jhitesma I use that same hotend/extruder mount and it works well for me. I like your remixed idler also. Thanks. Oh, and just in case I came across too harsh...Overall I like it and would say it's an improvement over stock. My criticisms are just because I'm pretty much never satisfied and always looking to make things better - which means first identifying what can bby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Why are you guys ordering extruders? You have a 3d printer sitting right next to you... I tried the metal ebay one for a couple of reasons: 1) It was suggested to me by someone who's print quality I was impressed by. 2) It was <$15 so cheap to try. 3) I figured if nothing else it would give me a spare bearing and gear even if I tossed the rest. 4) I worried about printing oneby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 I'd like to run an informal poll here. I wish the forum had an easy way to run a poll within a thread... Are you running a bed leveling system and if so which? Thanks Like you I found I had to relevel almost every time I touched the bed. So I ended up going autolevel. I started with the 4mm distance sensor from Folger and a sheet of 28ga galvanized steel under my glass. It worby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA Has anyone else had issues with the stock Folger extruder drive gear becoming worn? I've had my printer for about 2+ months and have run maybe 21/2 spools through. 1 spool PLA, 1 spool PETG and a bit of ABS. In the last week or so I've noticed a lot of clicking from the extruder and the prints are becoming pretty bad. Examining the gear shows there is hardly any "tooth" left. They arby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy From what I understand the slicers don't take acceleration/deceleration into account when estimating the times. I usually use for a better estimate That would explain why rep-server does a better job at estimating than slic3r then. Mailman showed up with not only my e3d today but also the spare stepper I ordered in case I burn my extruder out - so tonight I get to build up a newby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteToxic0n How accurate are the printing estimations in Repetier/Slic3r? When I was printing at 0.4 and 0.3mm layer height, I thought they were pretty close. Printed these Z mounts at 0.2mm for the first time last night and the ETA said 2:44 and it took over 5 hours? 60mm/s printing speed. On the flip side, they look good! I've found slic3r's estimates to be pretty far off sometimes. I'veby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Mine came with threads on top not the fine little hole you have...hence the need for a fitting up top. Yeah, that's a little different. Could probably print a little adapter to screw into that. Or use a bowden fitting, I'm guessing that's why it was designed like that so you could run a tube off either end.by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah I have one of those metal ones on my machine right now. I do like the higher tension it gives on the idler, that cleaned up a pattern I was seeing in my prints. But my stepper has been running about 10-15 degrees hotter since the change and started skipping. I initially thought it was due to the aluminum extruder letting more hot end heat get into the stepper...but now I think it's the exby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa If anyone is curious about the marlin lineage, the only two files changed on my fork from the official Marlin fork is configuration.h and pins.h. If you want to see the differences, compare the two files using BeyondCompare. Can also use github to see the differences: Though it shows 4 files changed - configuration.h, pins.h - as well as configuration_adv.h and README. Though tby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Good stuff thanks a lot! One question to clarify one missing parameter. Are you specifying a height of 0.32mm? That would fit with all the maths I've been looking at. TIA p.s. Looks like too many github branches to suss out our Marlin lineage. I use a first layer height around 0.30...I'm not at home so I can't confirm exactly what I'm currently using. I measure my skirts afby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Lately I have been printing everything at 0.2mm, im using the stock extruder and hotend... Should I change it? Im using cura Layer height? 0.2 should be good Prusa has a calculator that helps you figure out optimal layer heights based on your z screws: For extrusion width 0.2 would be WAY too narrow. But like I said I don't use cura because I can't get it to do single wall prinby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander On a side note, is there a good way to see 'graphically' the Folger Tech Marlin branches/version lineage? Usually you can click on the count next to forks in github and view the network graph for a project to see a visual representation of the forks and how they relate. But Marlin has almost 3k forks and github won't render the network graph when there are that many forksby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander One my gotchas has to do with "sane defaults." It's where the extrusion volume is reduced on the perimeter so the object looks 'pretty.' I think all of our slicers are using this to some degree. Re: last paragraph at the following: I'll probably use the maths from here to get overlap and width correct: Specifying my own width should help overhangs. Maybe printing 'perimeterby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteserks644 I just put one of these things together and I'm starting to think that I have a bad power supply, and I'm hoping someone can clarify for me. I was able to flash the board and repartier connects just fine. However when using repartier the motors do not move at all. Additionally, on the power supply the fan does not run and the LED light is not lit. I used my multimeter to confirmby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMonolithTyriss Hey guys! Just got shipment of my 2020 kit earlier today. Must say, awesome job on the packaging! Entire printer plus 4 total rolls of abs and that box was rock solid! Certainly no worries of it coming apart mid shipment. Also it appears they didn't have a color of filament that I wanted, so I got 2 rolls of a different color! A free spool? I think I can live with a difby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteToxic0n Did anyone else get a bag of jelly beans in their package? A happy accident or a little reward for when I finish putting it together? My kit was missing all the M3x8mm screws, I guess this almost makes up for it. Any advice on aligning the Z axis? I don't think mine are perfectly align as the movement on the Z axis is not as smooth and it feels like it is binding at the bottom parby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants