I was from "Up above" but have lived for the last 20 years "down under". Guess old habits die hard. Have not fully adopted all the slang. Fair dinkum mate.by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't forget to share your idea here if it works out. Yes I forgot to mention squaring the vertical frame to the horizontal base. Caused me a lot of problems leveling the bed because of skewing. That video of the "dancing" of the rods I borrowed from another guy. My rods did not dance so much and were quite straight. It was the coupler - that cylindrical springy thingi that connects the rods toby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWildkata New guy on the list. Retired electronics and manufacturing engineering tech. 1. I hope to bypass the z band problem from the git-go. 2. that might even almost pass scrutiny by anonymous Wild 1. While using lead screws that are hopefully straight will alleviate the z banding to a high degree, IMHO it will not completely remove it. The simple reason is that all it takes is for theby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi F91W So your X axis is shifting. At the outset let me make it clear that I am a hobbist 3D Printer and make no pretensions of being a SAMK (Split-Ass-Mechanik). I understand that you have come here because you have a problem and do not want to be treated like a child with a "I told you so" crappy attitude. Ok so your prints have improved after the mod. Mine were great before and now the Z aby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotestratosonic ... I know, there are probably backlash issues, etc, but the walls of prints are now amazingly smooth. Re: your comment on backlash. As per the Reprap Wiki - Backlash "Backlash is an effect caused by "slop" (too much freedom of movement, or too little constraint) in a mechanical drive system, leading to small discrepancies in positioning at points where axes reverse directioby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Seem like some people are ignorant about certain terms used. Here is an explanation.by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMKSA Quotestratosonic So I printed out bernbout's Z axis anti-wobble brackets. This totally eliminated the small Z-wobble that I was getting in my prints. Thanks bernbout! Z Axis brackets I had read a lot about eliminating Z-wobble but hadn't yet determined how I wanted to address it. This bracket fixed it for me. I know, there are probably backlash issues, etc, but the walls of prints arby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotestratosonic So I printed out bernbout's Z axis anti-wobble brackets. This totally eliminated the small Z-wobble that I was getting in my prints. Thanks bernbout! Z Axis brackets I had read a lot about eliminating Z-wobble but hadn't yet determined how I wanted to address it. This bracket fixed it for me. I know, there are probably backlash issues, etc, but the walls of prints are now amazby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Just a simple mod. I got this strip of 12v LED's from China and stuck it to the edge of the printer frame. Wired it into the fan socket in parallel and Bob's your uncle. Now everything is well lit, including the print.by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Looking at the photo posted I had a good laugh. Such un-necessary complications. Why not leave the single Z motor in its mount below and connect the belt as shown? After all this is a simple 3D printer, not a car. http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,560469,560469by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Other than problems with the Firmware, which is another topic, you could check if there is any blockage in the Nozzle. If using Repetier, heat up the extruder and manually extrude some Filament. If you still get that slippage noise, try a manual assist while extruding - hold the filament and push it down when extruding and see if that helps. If it stops the slippage problem then you need to LOOSEby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
You have not stated the exact model so I have to assume some things. Make sure your printer base is absolutely SQUARE. To do this place it on a level, hard surface, loosen all the base screws, press the printer base down and re tighten all the screws. If you think it could be the X axis then try this. Screw down your bed leveling screws in all 4 corners down to the exact same height. To assiby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi I have Marlin firmware and have read the M commands on the wiki on this page - . I use Repetier host software to print There are only M [500, 501, 502] commands to store settings into EEPROM and to read settings from EEPROM into the printer. Is there any way of finding out what exactly the current EEPORM settings are? What I would like to do is issue a command in Repetier that will read myby bernbout - Firmware - Marlin
Yes. See that spring on the right (image). Thru that spring there usually a screw for tightening/loosening the force that lever applies. Contrary to normal behaviour, if you LOOSEN that screw, it causes the pinch wheel and the brass teeth thingi to come closer. If you tighten it then there is less force on the filament by the brass teeth. So if you are getting the filament slipping, and providby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
When filament runs out, there will usually be a blob of melted plastic + a short length of unmelted filament still in the nozzle. You either have to dis assemble the nozzle and heat it to remove the piece or use a tool. With my Geeetech printer, they supplied a tool for this - see image attached. It is a thin steel rod of 1.75 mm dismeter, but being steel, very stiff. I just heated up my extby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Guys Don't know if this will help, but I had a problem with the Right BACK corner of my bed always wanting to push higher than the other 3 corners. I have a Geeetech Aluminium printer, a PCB heater bed on an Aluminum base and a Borosilicate Glass bed on top. The only way I could print was to force that RIGHT BACK edge down by tightening that screw, but this put stress on my glass plate. Alsby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
I think he has to have made firmware changes as the pitch is close to 7.5 mm for 1 revolution of those rods, whereas stock firmware comes with the threaded rod of 1 mm pitch. Also have a look at this method of Auto bed leveling using standard endstop switch and no servo. What do you think? I was having huge probs with my bed being level as I had the printer on a foam sheet for noise reduction.by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Looking at the rod from your link I see that the pitch of the threads is different - almost 7 mm looks like. Original threaded rod and firmware was for pitch of 1mm. How did you manage to get the correct Z movement? Did you modify the firmware and if so can you post some more details of what you changed? I am also interested in doing this. I have book marked 2 types: 1. long pitch - similarby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMKSA just replaced the M8 rods by T8, 8mm lead. Just a bit more "professional", M8, it is to bolt things together, not move them Can you post a link to the rods you bought to get an idea?by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Guys Found this auto bed leveling system using the basic endstop. Any comments would be appreciated, especially if they have relevance to the Aluminium Geeetech.by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAllgoodEnergy I have just finished assembling my Geeetech all aluminum Pursa I3 yesterday and have not been able to print anything successfuly yet the extruder motor slips and coggs with a clunk clunk clunk when printing. By the way some have had probles with the power supply I think what is happing because the supply is sent with the 110/220 Selection switch set to the 220 VAC setting.by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Some pictures of your mods would be nice.by bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMKSA How can you make sure these sensors give you the required repeatability ? You need better than 0.1mm. These sensors are designed and used for a totally different purpose. I already mentioned testing in my previous post: "LJC18A3-B-Z / BX I will get one and do some testing on an Arduino board " That is how I will know. As for these sensors, many people have been using them for just suby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks. Hope they remain that way or get better. A switchbox is on Thingverse but I modified it and have since modified my version as well. Basically at the size I printed above, the depth of the box was a weeee bit small to accommodate all those wires. So I made it deeper to allow for that. Also the hole on the sloping side was a tad small for my switch and had to do some filing to fit. So I mby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Some things I noticed: Tried printing with PLA with the heatbed OFF and the first layer cooled too fast and would not stick. (We are in the midst of Summer here Down Under) Even the strings of filament did not stick to each other. So I went back to my standard settings of 60/200 after cleaning the glass with Alcohol and a bit of cheap Hair Spray. That worked for me with the Cura slicer. With aby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Jason This is EXACTLY what I was asking. Now I understand how the software knows where the print bed starts in relation to the HOME position. I was also thinking that having 4 screws to level the bed is not really needed. Just 3 would be sufficient and easier to adjust. I will look at either having one screw at the front, 2 back or better 2 front and one in the middle behind. Only problby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Now I have some questions for the more experienced users: This is the heated bed when viewed from the top Front: My Q is which coloured dot represents the HOME for the Print head.? My guess is the Green dot but I may be wrong. The reason I ask is I have set the bed size to be 200x200x180 IF x:y - 0,0 are at the green dot. then when I give the command to move 100X, 100Y , it should move the hby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Here are some construction tips that I have made. 1. As suggested earlier, for the XAxis it is better to put the Stopper rings on the inside of the rods to stop the ZAxis rods bowing when you tighten the belt. However as Billp says, then the extruder hits on the ring when you home it. This is what I did. On the Extruder I attached a small piece of stiffish plastic I cut from an old icecream conby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Jason My printer arrived today. The only thing "missing?" is the SD Card. I have a couple of Q for you. 1. Did Geeetech supply an SD card or do I have to use my own? 2. What did you do with the A.C power unit? They supplied a plug+ socket/switch but no instructions of how it is to be connected. The reason I ask is, for the other, Acrylic Prusa's, they suggest mounting the PSU on the Sideby bernbout - Prusa i3 and variants