Black Ferrite Core Rings. If you suffer from the dreaded LCD two lines of death boot-up issue with your Melzi 2.0 board try to add Black Ferrite Core Rings to your USB cables. I do have to use a usb extension cable but even before that the melzi board would never boot-up straight away. In the past it took me at least half an hour to an hour to boot up the P802M. Even leaving the melzi board pby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
If you're using Reptier load it up and connect to the printer then press alt-e. Press Alt-e will bring up the printers eeprom settings. You'll have to do some detective (google) work on your own from this point on to find out what the settings do as I'm not near my printer as I type. First make a backup of the settings by exporting them to a safe place. Now off the top of my head search for Zby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Where are "all" the places have you changed the baud rate. Surprisingly there are quite a few. Check that they are all the same. Go through the printer LCD menu until you find the baud rate option and change it there then save the eeprom settings. I don't own a Tronxy printer so can't help you that much.by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Just want to wish everyone a happy 3D printing new year!!!by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't worry about your English :-). What is the baud rate of your com port? Just looked at your first image again and it doesn't actually show the ' Port Settings' tab where you can change the bits per second value. Strange.by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
First things first. The printer we've bought is actually 75% of a 3d printer, the other 24% is what you're going to print to make it more .....solid. The last 0.9% is you and your tweaks, and how the printer feels to you. How satisfying is the output of the printer? Only you can be the judge of that.....until you post pictures on here ;-). The last 0.1% is pure luck that the printer doesn't setby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
What were the speed settings for that print profile? Post everything in the speed section. To me it looks like one of your perimeter settings might be off I know I go on about speed but when I printed stuff and it got a bit like yours I had to learn by slowing things right down quite "a lot" then gradually building up speed to get a feel for the filament temp vs speed. For me the default speeby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Progress so far. My mr128 bearings came on Friday so fitted them to the z-axis holders. Printed the z resonance test file and apart from a slight ripple on X and Y ( check the pictures) I think the printer is 90% good to go. Things to print before I think it's 99.99999999....% Belt tensioners and GT2 idlers for the x and y axis. When I print a GT2 for the x idler I'll reverse nopheads belt fby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
If you see your brother in law please ask him to enquire about the rods that I mentioned in my 3rd post. Pity he can't run a couple of different sized bearings up and down them to see how they roll........ "APPLICATIONS Grade 303 is used in applications that require parts to be heavily machined. These applications include: Nuts and bolts Screws Gears Aircraft fittings Bushings Shafts" "303 Harby Gatchaman - General
I am doing my own work but I'm just asking if anyone has "recently" bought some rods from them and lived to print with it. That's all. If you read martinprice2004 post he says the rods are okay but the post was made in 2011. "I used www.metals4u.co.uk the softer stainless 304 and they run very smooth through LM8UU but cuts easily with a hacksaw. " I've sent a PM to him but no answer so far. 30by Gatchaman - General
The reason why I'm after the rods right now is because yes the £ is a bit unstable after Brexit and I'm tired of buying and waiting for stuff from Aliexpress/The bay. Things from China might be cheap but it's a total crapshoot. Just want to get a big, for me anyway, load of rods that I can cut to what I want, when I want. But the question remains....... can the bars/rods be used for running linby Gatchaman - General
Thanks for the replies. I think there is a saying that goes if you can't see the price tag then it's too expensive or something like that. Google isn't my friend in this case. I bet aalco.co.uk will be the guys that supply firms like metals4u.co.uk with huge truck loads of metal.by Gatchaman - General
Done some searching on here but can't really find an answer to the question of... has anyone bought and used 303 stainless steel round bar from www.Metals4U.co.uk and lived to tell the tale. I think I'll purchase 3M of various diameters of 303 and 304. Found this but not much else. I've sent a PM to martinprice2004 to ask for more info but in the mean time if anyone else can chip in then pleby Gatchaman - General
Hmmmm. Looking at the picture it looks like the extruder might be a bit too hot, and slow the print speed down to begin with. Try to print a Filament Temp Calibration Tower.by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Never used Marlin so I can't help. Sorry. But yes buy a cheap USBasp programmer.by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteppdroid QuoteBobyni QuoteSteppdroid Hi, how burn New bootloader? After flash Repetier firmware 1.0,0 My board is blocked not flash any sketch, i get error: resp= 0x9d , Steppdroid, just a question, when you flashed your Melzi with other version of the Firmware, did you change a jumper pin toward the end of the Melzi? when flashing the firmware the reset jumper has to be installed. Hi thby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
You had a luck escape!! Before I built the printer I checked out the PSU and found one of the power pins hadn't been clipped off properly after soldering by who ever built the PSU. If that had shorted to the psu case I've got a feeling that it would have gone bang and my 3d printer dreams would have gone up in smoke. Will dig out the picture if I can find it..... I remember now I had to take theby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBobyni Info from: ......"The Bootloader At times, you may see references to the bootloader. This is a piece of code that is flashed to the Arduino chip before firmware, to allow basic communications. If you have a RepRapPro machine, this has been done for you. It is part of the Sanguino code, and it tells the chip how to talk to the USB port; without it, it doesn’t know how. Flashing firby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay! Good now some experienced users might be able to help! I'm not in that group but I'll help if I can. Do you have a link or post your instructions that you followed to get where you are? Explain your steps like.... Step 1 Step 2..... and so on.by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
What board? What equipment? What printer?by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
And if you haven't already buy a cheap usb asp programmer for your Melzli board. If things go wrong with the firmware you'll need one to flash a new boot loader and firmware. The firmware supplied with my P802M was so f#cked up I had to start from scratch. When I first booted up the printer all I got was two blank lines on my LCD screen 95% of the time until I got rid of Zonestar's god awful craby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
As requested a picture to describe what I was yapping on about. In the space between the heat sink and extruder was a ~1- 1.5mm gap rendering the heat sink and fan combo totally useless. After a bit of dremelling and some foil I think I fixed it. The printer is on stand-by waiting for some MR128 bearings to drop through the post so I can clamp down the tops of the z-axis. Zonestar P802M - Upperby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Will see what I can do but for now my fix seems to be doing the job. I'll post a picture soon to show you what I mean. To the left of the blower fan you have the heat sink and fan. It's bolted to the extruder. Underneath that heat sink you have two bolts that hold the extruder stepper motor in place. It's those two bolts that stick out too far causing the heatsink not to be flush. I think that hby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Can anyone help me with the extruder heat sink . When the heat sink is placed in position it isn't flush with extruder. The two bolts that hold the extruder stepper in place stick out by ~1mm so the heat sink doesn't actually touch anything. So I'm left with a ~1mm gap between the metal block and the heat sink. I'm trying to dremel a space for the bolt heads to fit into so the heat sink is fluby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
TIP: Not sure if this has been posted before but If you cut the filament holder base you can do this. Was going to print a filament holder to stick on the top of the printer but I looked at the original holder, and thought....just cut the thing. So cut it with a dremel. Put it on the printer, and it works! If you do this then you do it at your own risk!by Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have any Arduino programming knowledge? I'm thinking of stripping out the language code in the sketch. If the code for choosing a different language is stripped out I've got a feeling a bit more can be done with the melzi. When I first got a warning of the sketch being to big I had a go at cutting the sketch up but gave up after a while. Will have to do a crash course in programming the Aby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally sorted out z-probing with a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX ... After running G32 S2 and disabling the heaters, and running a print, the nozzle ALWAYS dug into the blue tape no matter the settings for the z-probing until I thought that 3D goes in + and -. I took a chance and changed one thing in the configuration.h, an upload to the melzi, and boom!!! The nozzle floats just above the heatbed instead ofby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Upload the configuration.h file from the P802M github to the Repetier firmware configurator and click on feature tab then heatbed and or extruder and look down the options and you should get to a point where, after a click or two, it lists the thermistors that are known to work with our printers..... I think. Come to think of it you don't have to upload anything, just click on the features tab Iby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
Bought one of those kits from the bay about a year ago. It's been under my desk for the same amount of time. Looking to build a Ultimaker clone of which all the parts are here. Just need to transport the gear home and start fiddling..... Back to the P802M. I think my steppers are running too hot in my cardboard box enclosure. Getting very stringy supports and sometimes Repetier will have a printby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants
To cut a long story short I've been using the wrong configuration.h file to tweak the firmware but that's sorted now. Correction. Uploading the P802M config.h to Repetier configurator would return some certain options back to default nullifying the original file, and if you haven't a clue as to what is what and uploading the firmware to the Melzi then a lot of things wont work in Repetier. The fby Gatchaman - Prusa i3 and variants