QuoteAccidentalWisdom Hi fellas, I recently got the SN04-N proximity sensor, shown below: The cable contains a black, a blue and a brown wire. I have a 3-pin JST XH connector to solder these into to connect into the Z- slot (or Z+, maybe, if my firmware is configured that way), but I don't know the order that these wires should be oriented on the board (MKS Base V1.2). So, if I am looking a tby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegotswrv Blue = common Brown = positive Black = signal Thank you, gotswrv. Is this just a description of each wire's function, or do you also mean that in order from top to bottom on the board the wires should be Blue = Top / Brown = Middle / Black = Bottom?by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi fellas, I recently got the SN04-N proximity sensor, shown below: The cable contains a black, a blue and a brown wire. I have a 3-pin JST XH connector to solder these into to connect into the Z- slot (or Z+, maybe, if my firmware is configured that way), but I don't know the order that these wires should be oriented on the board (MKS Base V1.2). So, if I am looking a the board mounted on thby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi fellas, I recently got the SN04-N proximity sensor, shown below in a Google image. The cable contains a black, a blue and a brown wire. I have a 3-pin JST XH connector to solder these into to connect into the Z- slot (or Z+, maybe, if my firmware is configured that way), but I don't know the order that these wires should be oriented on the board (MKS Base V1.2). So, if I am looking a the bby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks, buddy! I have sort of come to the same conclusion since posting. I like the Core XY style, another member on here is designing one and it looks great. I will probably mess about with this Migbot for a bit longer, learn more and then grab one of those.by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
I have found a few different steel frames for the Prusa i3, thinking of converting my Migbot to steel. Has anyone else done this? If so, have a link? I have yet to find one that includes a space for the LCD panel.by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteevetanlm Hi, would you mind to post your migbot as mine migbot i never saw any m5 screw before so there maybe some difference. I don't know where I got M5 from, my printer actually uses M3s and a couple M4s. Sorry for the misleading post!by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Anybody have a good source for the screws, washers and nuts for the Migbot? Looking for the Hex type Socket Cap head in silver color, if possible. I found www.mscdirect.com, but can't find 8 or 20 mm M5s on there. Looking for at least the following: M3 screws in 8, 12, 16 and 20 mm M3 nut M3 washer In fact, anybody have a list of all the components that came with the original? I received my kby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 the Initial Layer Thickness needs to be between 70-80 % of the other layers, I.e .3 layers Initial Layer between .210-.250 the diameter of the filament is set buy the diameter of your tip your using. adding more or less flow% can change that. but its meant to be .4mm or what ever size tip your using it sounds to me that if you send you z to Z0.0 it isnt with in the .004" (.1mm)by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 QuoteAccidentalWisdom Follow-up - If I offset the Z Axis by -.2, and then always print my Initial Layer at .3, would that be good? I hear a lot of people keep the Z Axis unlocked and manually adjust the rods at the beginning of the print. There is a setting in cura that you can tell it how thick you want your first layer using that set your hotend tip off the bed by the thickness oby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteAccidentalWisdom So, I've got my printer up and running (sort of), got my first two (semi)successful test prints out, along with a few failures.Printed this thing. Even the two that printed have the same problem as those that didn't - the piece is not adhering to the bed well. Most of the prints get to a few layers and then were pulled from position, dragged around with the nozzle Oby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 QuoteAccidentalWisdom So, I've got my printer up and running (sort of), got my first two (semi)successful test prints out, along with a few failures.Printed this thing. Even the two that printed have the same problem as those that didn't - the piece is not adhering to the bed well. Most of the prints get to a few layers and then were pulled from position, dragged around with the nozzleby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 actually..... here is a picture of the prototype Cool looking carriage! I wuold be interested once you post it. I'll keep my eye out on Thingiverse for it. Already thinking about upgrades to the machine and haven't even really gotten it truly up and running yet, haha. I got a nice borosilicate glass bed in yesterday, going to look into adding that to my bed.by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
So, I've got my printer up and running (sort of), got my first two (semi)successful test prints out, along with a few failures.Printed this thing. Even the two that printed have the same problem as those that didn't - the piece is not adhering to the bed well. Most of the prints get to a few layers and then were pulled from position, dragged around with the nozzle On the two that printed fully,by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
I'd like that, but I have to head out to a party. Will be home in about 6 hours, 7pm EDT. Maybe then or a bit after?by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote Ax Just out of curiosity, do you have the printer still connected to any other software?[\quote] I may have been connected to Cura when I tried the first time, not sure. But not when I tried uploading yours, everything else was off. Even without anything connected to the printer the LCD shows nothing but solid blocks and the LED constantly blinks in the 1-2-pause pattern.by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteAccidentalWisdom Trying to flash new firmware onto my Migbot with some needed changes. Hoping someone can help me. Using Arduino IDE, with instructions by Gary McKinney (https://github.com/garynmckinney/3DPrinter/tree/master/printer%20firmware). I followed his instructions completely, and am now trying to upload the firmware to the board. In his instructions, he says that on the boby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Trying to flash new firmware onto my Migbot with some needed changes. Hoping someone can help me. Using Arduino IDE, with instructions by Gary McKinney (https://github.com/garynmckinney/3DPrinter/tree/master/printer%20firmware). I followed his instructions completely, and am now trying to upload the firmware to the board. In his instructions, he says that on the board I should see one solid bluby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteAccidentalWisdom QuoteAx QuoteAccidentalWisdom Thanks, Ax, I will look into this, but I wonder if your Acme rods have the same pitch as mine? Maybe I should calculate mine, just in case. I was able to track down the exact leadscrews I got - T8 L300mm 8mm Lead 4 Start Lead Screw and Nut. Here is the information: Material: 304 stainless steel Diameter: 8mm Length: 300mm Piby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteAccidentalWisdom Thanks, Ax, I will look into this, but I wonder if your Acme rods have the same pitch as mine? Maybe I should calculate mine, just in case. I was able to track down the exact leadscrews I got - T8 L300mm 8mm Lead 4 Start Lead Screw and Nut. Here is the information: Material: 304 stainless steel Diameter: 8mm Length: 300mm Pitch: 2mm Lead of thread: 8mby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteThanks Ax, and thanks to you, too, Wes78! I will try this once I get the Hot Bed replacement in to remove the Err: MINTEMP message. I found the TEMP controls in the firmware copy from Github last night and considered reducing the MINTEMP from 5 to 0 and reflashing to see if I could trick the printer into letting me bypass the error for now. Would this work/be safe? No. if you're getting thby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteAccidentalWisdom Thanks, Ax, I will look into this, but I wonder if your Acme rods have the same pitch as mine? Maybe I should calculate mine, just in case. I was able to track down the exact leadscrews I got - T8 L300mm 8mm Lead 4 Start Lead Screw and Nut. Here is the information: Material: 304 stainless steel Diameter: 8mm Length: 300mm Pitch: 2mm Lead of thread: 8mby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm trying to familiarize myself with the printer firmware, since I need to edit the Z Axis travel lines once I find out the proper values for the new Acme rods (just waiting for some help on my previous post on that). I have Arduino IDE 1.6.7. how can I access the firmware that is already on my Migbot Prusa i3 in order to edit it? Is that even possible? Or can I only get a copy of the firmware oby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 QuoteAccidentalWisdom QuoteWes78 I would try replacing the thermistor first. In cura. Are you able to connect? If so dose it register a temperature for the hotend? It should be something other then 0. You'll lest see what Ambient temperature is. Just a thought Cura won't connect and ambient temp reads at 0 degrees on the LCD. I already ordered a replacement 2 days ago, just in caby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 I would try replacing the thermistor first. In cura. Are you able to connect? If so dose it register a temperature for the hotend? It should be something other then 0. You'll lest see what Ambient temperature is. Just a thought Cura won't connect and ambient temp reads at 0 degrees on the LCD. I already ordered a replacement 2 days ago, just in case, but it still hasn't shipped.by AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
New problem - I was doing a test the other day, and accidentally got one of the Hot End Thermistor wires caught on the Z Axis rod. The printer then ripped one of the wires out of Hot End box, and now the LCD screen perpetually displays "Err: MINTEMP." Cura will no longer connect to the printer - says "Error: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP t..." . I tried putting the wire back in the hole (shown iby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks, Ax, I will look into this, but I wonder if your Acme rods have the same pitch as mine? Maybe I should calculate mine, just in case. I was able to track down the exact leadscrews I got - T8 L300mm 8mm Lead 4 Start Lead Screw and Nut. Here is the information: Material: 304 stainless steel Diameter: 8mm Length: 300mm Pitch: 2mm Lead of thread: 8mm So I am trying to calculateby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote Veaceonee Attatched is my configuration.h file I use. It slows the printer way down, enables setting adjustments from the LCD, etc. and I have had great success with it. It is setup for Auto Bed Leveling awesomeness, so be aware of that. Back up your old file, and give it a try. If you are using PLA, you don't need the enclosure or hairspray. I have found regular old blue painter tapby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote3DST AccidentalWisdom, Looks like 1. Your Z-Gap is way too high. The reason your first layer seems to coming out fine is probably due to the "First Layer Height" is "squishing" the print a lot. However, on the second and subsequent layers, it goes back to 100%... and there is too much separation between your layers. 2. You are printing relatively slow. Which, in general would not beby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 get you something like this and print you off a holder, something like this not sure where to get the green one from, ill have to look at the numbers on it and see if i can find one Yeah, I definitely want an auto leveler. However, I think I have solved the issue manually, for now, just to find new problems. So the bottom layer is adhering very well to the bed. Right now I aby AccidentalWisdom - Prusa i3 and variants