QuoteCircleofOwls I'm not sure how I didn't smell this happening since I was 6' from the printer. I noticed that my print cooling fan was blowing on the nozzle enough to drop the extruder temps below the set temperature; the bed temperature was also well below the set point. I'm guessing that the fan is blowing far to hard and caused the nozzle and bed heaters to run for too long. The printer nby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAres2189 The issue with attachments is it tells me file is too large when I try to attach. 614kb allowed. Will make those new adjustments today when I get back from work. Thanks Just to let you know the printer has been printing very well for 6 months now, just mirrored which I didn't notice on 95% of the prints. PM your email or text I will send you pics of the ramps Thanks for yourby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAres2189 here is my config.h ... For the most part, things look OK. There are a couple things that need to be adjusted. You should not attempt any printing yet. (I know, that's a difficult thing, you want to get started!) Steps/mm need adjusting. Z needs changing to 4000, and I'm sure the extruder is not 90 even. That will need calibrating too. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80by iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAres2189 Ok, I adjusted the code in my configuration.h file. Now my extruder is printing off the bed. Is there a way to readjust it's positioning? It is trying to print off the bed. When I kill print it would usually park it self in the center back position. Now when I kill the print it is parked off center. I tried to change the code back to its original form to see if would go back toby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCircleofOwls Quotekarimm Hi folks, Is it normal for the heated bed to take several minutes to reach the 90C temperature for printing with ABS? I feel something is wrong here. Any help would be appreciated. P.S. the hot end takes much less to reach 245C Thanks a million. I believe that this is normal. I've seen several posts with similar questions and no solutions other than trying to insby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAres2189 Im having an issue with my printer. all my prints are coming out good however they are being printed in mirror image. if the print is the same on left as it is on right the print will come out perfect. its hard to explain, say you have a mickey mouse figurine that you want to print. For some reason you want mickey's right ear to be larger then his left ear. my print will comeby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecrumb4life Can someone help me and tell me what is wrong has my prints move up they seem to be getting smushed at the top closer to the base they are fine(minus the poor bed adhesion on this one) Printing in PLA at 195c. I am kind of lost on what this could be. I have checked my Z steps and they are moving in the right increments. It looks to me to be a temp issue. PLA needs time to cool bby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Why all the crickets? Were did everyone go? @iamquestar - What parts did you use for the V-slot on your X? I used sonnylowes's v-slot design:by iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker I am printing blue PLA. nozzle 210deg Bed 70deg and no cooling fan on the part. The bottom couple mm of the part is darker than the rest and is squeezed out like the part is melting. Printing on blue tape and it is almost impossible to get the part off the bed when complete. Is it a bed temp problem, nozzle offset or first layer settings? Can not seem to find the right combinatioby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure how this got posted 3 times, but it did... Deletedby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
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Quoteanimoose Quotepizzachef Quoteanimoose I moved on from the Folger to an Eclips3D CoreXY. It's better and faster, but it still makes me aware of what a good printer the Folger 2020 is. The key, as with the Eclips3D, is a really rigid frame - get that right and many other things become easier. You're only encouraging me more! But good to know the Folger 2020 has a good standing, I need it to mby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker @ iamquestar - While back do I remember correctly you were waiting on a 120V heated bed, or was that someone else? Jbed?ust ordered parts to go up to a 200mm x 300m bed. With the parts I take out of the FT I also want to increase Z as much as I can. Any recommendations on a bed? WilberMaker No, it must have been someone else, although I do hate how long my bed takes to heat up.by iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepizzachef Quoteiamquestar OK, so this has been a long-time promised and an long-time coming. Here's an overview of my most recent work/changes to the printer... FYI, your amazon link to the sensor goes to the RaspPi kit instead. Thanks for the heads up. I've fixed it.by iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Many of the V-Slot parts I printed, I did out of PLA. I will not be able to experiment with an enclosure heater until I replace all of them with ABS. That's a huge job, so I will probably stick with just being able to keep the temp within the enclosure up around the 45c mark at this point. The other major items of note are running the printer with OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi, and being able toby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, so this has been a long-time promised and an long-time coming. Here's an overview of my most recent work/changes to the printer. The first I'll talk about is the hot-end. I had switched to a bowden setup when I installed the V-Slot X-axis upgrade. I finally got it dialed in, and was getting good prints, but was still struggling with zits etc. I also wanted the option of printing with fleby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quoteiamquestar Quotejabu32 Got Octoprint working....LOVE IT! Excellent! I have really appreciated the ease it gives me, not to mention, I can initiate a print from the bedroom using my phone (I did this last night when I realized I had forgotten to start it). I also added a relay control module ($7 from amazon) and can actually control power to the printer, and turn the LED lightby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Got my lead screws installed. Having a problem with the steps. Seems that if I raise the x axis 40mm it is actually moving around 10mm. This would say the steps are to low, But when I level the bed and set the offset the nozzle will dig into the bed. Below is my setting for steps. Am I missing something else or is it possible I am binding on the leads and missing steps on the steby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 Quoteiamquestar Quotejabu32 Got Octoprint working....LOVE IT! Excellent! I have really appreciated the ease it gives me, not to mention, I can initiate a print from the bedroom using my phone (I did this last night when I realized I had forgotten to start it). I also added a relay control module ($7 from amazon) and can actually control power to the printer, and turn the LED lightsby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Is there a better 8" bearing to use than the LM8UU linear bearings. The ones from Folger Tech seem cheep and are rough. When replacing the Z I lose several ball out of them and would like to go back with something better. There are a number a quality bearing suppliers out there. Good LM8UU bearings will cost a lot more. You can expect to pay from $6-$12 each for good ones. Yoby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepizzachef Quoteiamquestar I'm ready to share my extruder mount with the world, and will be posting it this week. I've designed it so that the motor sits ABOVE the vslot gantry (more or less), which keeps from having this big weight hanging off the front of the Xaxis, and reclaims some Z height. I have about 175mm of Z height, even with an E3D hotend. I'm printing the DiiiCooler now, butby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 Got Octoprint working....LOVE IT! Excellent! I have really appreciated the ease it gives me, not to mention, I can initiate a print from the bedroom using my phone (I did this last night when I realized I had forgotten to start it). I also added a relay control module ($7 from amazon) and can actually control power to the printer, and turn the LED lights I added to my enclosure on/by iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Im thinking about doing this, would it work ok with the cura slicer? (new version) I have the money for a Pi 3 but definetly not for the Simplify3D Octoprint will work with any slicer, you'll just need to upload the gcode generated (very easy: web interface). Further, Octoprint actually embeds Cura (I'm not sure of the version, I haven't played with this yet) and you can send yourby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteav8r1 So the display works when the USB cable is plugged into your laptop, but not when unplugged. I bet the 5v regulator on your board has gone. I know I harp on that a lot, but it's been a BIG issue with me, and if you do ANYTHING wrong with the machine, that regulator will let the smoke out. There are three ways to power an Arduino: You can put up to 5.5V on the 5V pin (basically don'by iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotemrbill Bit the bullet, ordered the kit, the 2004 LCD, and the extension cable for the LCD. I'll either buy a better Arduino and RAMPS (links/suggestions encouraged) before I build it, or expect to have to do that at some point. My arduino from ft has worked great! Have fun building it and dont rush through it like me I too had an issue with the regulator on my original... (Iby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemrbill Bit the bullet, ordered the kit, the 2004 LCD, and the extension cable for the LCD. I'll either buy a better Arduino and RAMPS (links/suggestions encouraged) before I build it, or expect to have to do that at some point. Welcome to the club! I ordered mine just before new years, and started building it around mid-January. My wife quickly became a 3D printing widow. All my free timeby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepizzachef Quoteiamquestar Hmm, I forgot that you had mentioned this was only a problem with PETG. So I assume you do not hear the extruder skipping? Unfortunately with the stock hot end, you can't really see the extruder in action. I designed my own mount for the stock extruder and the E3D lite6 for the v-Slot X axis Gantry plate, and the front of the extruder is now open and visible. Itby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus Has been a while since I posted or read the thread, and now it's 169 pages looooong!! I moved to my own house and now my i3 has a permanent home on my studio room, recalibrated the bed by hand and do a excellent print to test if all was running fine after the whole ordeal of moving and packing in and out... I'm just tired to do the level of the bed manually and spend 30 minutes goingby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepizzachef Thanks for the feedback. I really don't know how much retraction affects prints/clogging, so it was just a guess. I have run quite a few 6+ hour prints with good results using ABS and PLA. I've also run long prints with this and another color of PETG, but the models were bigger. None of the stepper drivers get very hot, and I checked the Vref with I first set up the printer andby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteav8r1 I recently had a problem where the cooling fan on a printer (not my personal one, I haven't installed one yet) cooled the nozzle too much when it turned on. Make sure that's not happening. Also, about OctoPrint--I've downloaded the OctoPi image, and can't get it to work. I mean, at all. Downloaded the image from GitHub, burned the image to an SD card, plugged into the Pi, and it acby iamquestar - Prusa i3 and variants