QuoteRobkadett And if you want upgrade your stability after assembly, you can use it too: Thingiverse.com Did you try them yourself? Did you notice any changes in your print?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone tried these ? Wondering if it's worth something or just better don't tryby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
@madias; so, you upgraded to the newest repetier firmware? It would be very helpful (for me and others!) if you could just write a short description on how to do this. Can it be upgraded over usb or do we need an additional device for this?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoutwoot QuoteErikL There already was kapton tape arround the hot end when I bought this printer so I need to add more layers? That kapton tape is there to attach the thermistor. Yes, I'd try adding a few extra layers. I tried extra layers of kapton tape on the hot end but I don't see a significant difference with it... Maybe I had to tape them with some air between, for added insulation .by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias Good news for printing flexible filaments The simplest idea was really the best, just an additional guide for the filament prevents loops around the filament gear Tested with 30m/s working good! More speed give bad results with "soft PLA" even with 230 degrees. But 30ms/s more than the recommended speed. I have attached a 123D design file and also a STL file for that part. For myselfby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
And increasing it to 13v is required for better keeping the nozzle temperature, or why is it recommended ?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I did not touch the psu so it's at default voltage. Should I increase this to 13.5 ?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Temperature seems to drop especially when the front fan is running. I don't mean the square fan on the left, which is always running. The blower fan on the front can be turned on / off while printing. So it seems like this fan is cooling my nozzle down to about a maximum of 220°C I just measured the voltage of the psu, while printing, and this reads 12.01 so it's still 12V. Insulation is the onlby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
There already was kapton tape arround the hot end when I bought this printer so I need to add more layers?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
And what kind of insulation should I add? Were you guys required to do this too? Or is it just my printer not being able to keep temperature high enough...by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm trying to pring my first object in PETG but for some reason I have layer adhesion problems. Could this be because of printing too cold? I tried increasing the temperature to 245°C already but while printing the printer reads 216°/245°. It looks like it's not getting hot enough. Any idea why it's not going to 245 while printing?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm also considering buying a second 3D printer but I'm not sure which one to buy. I'm not a fan of this P802M printer to be honest. Now I'm wondering if I buy a Leapfrog Creatr, for example, can I expect a totally different / better print result, or will it be more or less comparable? The reason why I ask is because with this printer I have had many issues already and I'm still not sure if my pby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I contacted zonestar and asked for a firmware upgrade and they said "P802M has been discontinued now and do not support upgrade." Well, that's the kind of support I was expecting from a chinese manufacturer anyway :pby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I'll print it later today and see if it matches. If it matches, good! If not I'll have to create one myself I guess. Seems that the P802M printers aren't all exactly the same ...by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias Good news for printing flexible filaments The simplest idea was really the best, just an additional guide for the filament prevents loops around the filament gear Tested with 30m/s working good! More speed give bad results with "soft PLA" even with 230 degrees. But 30ms/s more than the recommended speed. I have attached a 123D design file and also a STL file for that part. For mby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I haven't touched my printer' firmware yet but I'm planning on implementing auto bed leveling, so I will have to flash the firmware with the latest repetier firmware 0.92.x. Has anyone already done that and can point me to soms relevant information and/or tips? I guess I can, somehow, read the current configuration for the current firmware and use that configuration for compiling the newer firmwby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias The flickering is caused by a bad 5v converter onboard as I can remember. People fixed it with exchange the voltage converter or powering the melzi via additional usb 5v. I have the lcd flicker problem (all of us have it). But I fixed it another way: In the past: setting voltage output on PSU to 13.5 now: Using new 25A PSU (also set to about 13V for better heatbed heating) Well, ALby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Also a totally different question: When I first used my printer I had a problem with it. The LCD started to flicker when the bed and extruder were powered on for a couple minutes. While printing the printer came with errors about SD card read failures etc... The whole thing was unstable and crashed. After reading online I read somewhere that the mosfets on the zonestar melzi board were poorly chby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
The printer comes with repetier firmware. Some people install Marlen instead and I wonder why we would do that. Does Marlin offer better / more features compared to repetier. Repetier does support auto bed leveling too so I see no reason for going to Marlin instead?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
There are unused pins in the atmega1284p, for example pins PA3 and PA4, which are at the outer side of the chip, so can be soldered pretty easy. The other end-stops have a 4.7µF capacitor and a 10k resistor wired up. So we could just use a resistor and a capacitor and wire it up to PA3 or PA4 to add one more end-stop to the pcb...by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay. I better get the 8mm one then I also read that this sensor is connected to the Z-end stop so the mechanical z-end stop should be removed, right? what happens when we do "home all" ? When it's going home it's not above the bed anymore. Or should we wire up the mechanical z-end stop too? As an added safety in case the inductive sensor sends no signal, to prevent damage to the printer?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm also thinking about adding auto bed leveling to my P802M printer but I'm wondering if this is the right sensor ? -> Can anyone please confirm? I'm ordering different parts from the same seller so I could add this sensor and I won't need to pay additional shipping costs..by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
fyi: The printer I have looks exactly like this one -> Except my pcb has no screws for the motors, just white plugs.by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm actually not having any issue with inserting new filament? I just heat the extruder to 100°C and push the metal clip on top, then take the old filament out. I never had any problem with that ? Inserting new filament: push the metal clip, insert new filament as far as it goes. Heat the extruder and when it's hot, tell it to extrude some filament. I usually extrude a couple of cm so the old fiby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I think the easiest solution will be a modified version of This can be inserted in the current extruder to force the flexible filament down, giving it no room to bend towards the extruder gears. The problem: this version on thingiverse doesn't fit our extruder in the P802M. We should design a similar thing like that that will fit inside the extruder and which can be mounted with screws. The exby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
The extruder I have right now is not printed out? It's completely built in metal... Except some plastic where the blowerfan is mounted. but the rest of my extruder is metalby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm wondering if something like this would work for flexible filaments ->by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I will take some pictures of the hot-end later and post them here. I tried printing at 15mm/s but the ninjaflex still got stuck. So lowering the speed didn't help for me. I didn't try a softer spring but this is indeed annoying, having to change it every time I change material... Can I just print a new extruder from thingiverse ? Doesn't it have to be built from metal, like the original extrudeby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, P802M it is I bought it from a website called "justcompare.nl" but they do not longer sell it. How can I identify the hot end ? I also have a different question: I tried printing Ninjaflex but it's too soft and gets stuck between the gears inside the extruder. Isn't there a fix for that? I was thinking that maybe we could insert a small metal tube right under the gears so the ninjaflex isby ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants
I have ordered a p803m too and i'm wondering which hot end is included? Is it an E3D?by ErikL - Prusa i3 and variants