if your intrested to much belt tension made my motor mount akmust breake (see picture - red part) so i re-desing it a bit to make it stronger also made the z-endstop adjustable screw better and eazyer to adjust printed in PLA, 30% infillby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
just got my inductive Proximity Sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX)... was wondering if this setup will work ? (see picture attached) com is ground right ?? or maybe there is some other way to connect it to the melzi ?? thanks !!by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
@jnsbanman i think 0.1 is a bit much, try getting 0.01-0.05 at max all you need to do is to change the esteps for the axis from the eeprom (what you got / what you want) * corent estep = new estep so... (20.4/20) * axis estep from eeprom = new estep to insert the eeprom repeat untill you got something you can live with about the z axis.. had that probleme, its just that for some reason my i canby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJimsFlight Cheers man, I figured out the EEPROM stuff with a little help from dSol's forum link from the other day. Can't see I've observed mine hanging at all. Mine completes the auto level and everything however does something strange. It seems to auto level okay, but it "forgets" it's Z0 setting. As it goes to 3D print it immediately jumps up about 8mm off the bed and prints too high. Bloby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJimsFlight Hi guys, Good news, dsol you were right! the baud rate of the printer and the settings in repetier host were different. I don't know why, but it seems to work alright. Repetier Host is set at 500,000 whereas the printer is set at 256,000. I've managed to flash some firmware and the printer menus and everything work a lot quicker. The firmware also has an autolevelling feature. Usby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
same happened for me... that not a real melzi board probably... anyway enen if it is... try playing with the buildrate in the printer or from the repetier host untill you connect keep in mind that for me, the buildrate is not the same in the printer and in the pc (the printer on 25k or so and the pc is is on 15k i think) and i run like this a few weeks and everything seem to work fineby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
im with @rtideas on the octoprint... i had the very first rpi just connected to my tv as a steamer but the octoprint is much better use for it and !! i have a print problme printed with ABS at 230c bed at 120c 0.3 lyaer highet with suppurt.. sliced in Simplify3D anyone know why this happenes ??by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
@JimsFlight i had this,, if i remeber correctly (you can go back to page 7 or 8 i thuink) you need to uninstall arduino and install on older version... for me version 1.0.5-r2 and also intall the sanguino board arduino supportby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
@Bobyni wow, very nice... dont forger to post after you clean everything and insert the printer ! i think ill do the same with the electronic on the back of the box in my setup @madias chack this out if you have an rpi laying around ill say go for that (or even buy one..,) im useing it with the fitst version of the Raspberry Pi and everything work awsome ! it can even give you timelaps videoby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
wont the active cooling will defy the purpose of the hot box ?? at max.. i believe the temp in the box will be around 40-50c, is that so hot ? will moving the psu out help ??by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
so... added a insulation to the bed had to buy some acetone and found in the dollar store some aluminum bubble roll for the kitchen.. and didnt really wanted to cut my car shade so.. it look like that 1 side aluminum bubble 1 side anti slip something (non flammable) anyway 2 layers or the aluminum bubble+1 layer of compressed cardboard (http://img1.exportersindia.com/product_images/bc-full/dir_5by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
insulation is the next step... i need to go the the hardware store to get some isolation for now i got some plywood/cardboard/ acrylic/polycarbonate that i can laser cut... ot some silicone hot plate (form the kitchen) an some car sunshade (aluminum like that ) do you think any of them will work good ? or just go out and but some real hardcore insulation material ?? and i found this one on alby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
actually the wood absorb sound and the print noise is way down then before.... found some old thermometer like that and is shows 30c steady in the box. not as high as i wanted it to be but maybe ill preheat the box with some hair dryer and the filter seem very good... ill see if i can get one locally or ill order online, the ABS fumes are awful with all that.. still cent get the print to staby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
so... small update built myself a box for the printer order from ali some infrared Thermometer to see if my printer read correct nozzle/bed temp and some digital Thermometer to see how hot/steady the temp in the box is and connected my printer to my wifi with octaprintby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
say.. when printing ABS haw do you make the print stick to the bed ??? didn't had any problem till yesterday with warping on staying on the bed while printing... but didn't had to print anything big till yesterday also i use ABS juice, but i think i use it wrong the heat platform connected to the aluminum bed.. on that i use masking tape and on the tape i apply ABS juice.. but last print the tby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekmjee What are the kind of upgrades you can do to this printer besides upgrading the printed parts, upgrading the frame, adding a sensor? Can you upgrade the build area? What would you need to do to be able to do that? Is there a larger build plate you can get with a heated bed part? or if you got a larger build area (alum or glass) Can you use the smaller heat pad or is there a larger verby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
@Robkadett after PID test i use hotend PID P - 6.65 I - 0.15 D - 72 big change from 0.91 factory firmware, but better result for me that from the reprap PID page, try it out for fine tune "For manual adjustments: if it overshoots a lot and oscillates, either the integral gain needs to be increased or all gains should be reduced Too much overshoot? Increase D, decrease P. Response too damped? Iby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBobyni I think you are having issue with the MELZI board cause you did not have the right firmware..... Is your P802M uses threaded rod or lead screw? Threatened rod most likely is using the step revolution at 1600, but if your kit uses lead screw then it would be 400.... also, remember that the Zonestar's MElzi board, the manufacture is using their own temp table the sensor is under 501 typby dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
upgraded to 0.92.5 from the link above and got this on the Repetier-Host when trying to connect "18:07:10.257 : Serial com errorystem.IO.Ports.SerialErrorReceivedEventArgs" and this on Simplify3D "Attempting connection at \\.\COM11... WARNING: framing error detected by hardware. Please verify that you are using the correct baud rate." but the com is correct and so is the baud rate (115200)by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
asked from the seller to send me the firmware upgrade file/tool he used... he sent me that i dont know what to do with that or if it any good for Repetier-Firmware use... anyone know what to do? do i need that for upgrade or just use the Arduino with the firmware posted before ??? thanks !! edit: @madias "x y offset home position not correct" how did you fix that ??by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
i got 0.92 from here still trying to burn it... had a bug but gwc2795 in a massage above said to try different arduino version for that, will give it a try soon and, could you upload your current version that you got ????by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants
trying to burn 0.92 firmware and get this.. what to do ??? thanks ! got this printer...by dsol - Prusa i3 and variants