Quote3333dddd Quoteav8r1 Arduino publishes an identification guide here: The silk screening on the boards received from FT doesn't hold up to scrutiny. Wow - that is interesting (and helpful to know) To be fair to Folger Tech, I went and looked at their site, and it states "Arduino Mega 2560 R3 Clone" on the product page, so they are not really hiding that fact. It's a bit of a roll-of-theby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKeary123 Has anyone had issues with their Ramps board or power supply frying? 2 weeks ago I had just finished printing all the parts for a CNC, when I got home the printer had stopped printing in the middle of the print, I reconnected to the printer and tried to move the axis and didn't get any response. I noticed that the mosfet connectors on the ramps had started to melt. I switched out thby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been getting my filament from Micro Center, Inland brand. I like the idea of $5 filament. Trying to keep the desiccant 'baked' is a real challenge. Having smaller vacuumed-packed spools would be helpful. The silica gel that has a color change is useful in determining how hydrated the filament is. It becomes dark green when saturated and, then changes to orange-yellow when 'dry', afterby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 What motor is used for the extruder? I think it's this: (NEMA17 17 Stepper Motor 36oz-in/ 2600g/cm 3D Printer RepRap Medel Prusa)by flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteav8r1 So let's talk firmware. I've been using the firmware from FolgerTech, and it works pretty well. The thing is, I'd like to change some settings that don't seem to be there. I would post this in the Marlin subforum, but since i'm using what seems to be firmware modified by FT, I'm posting here. For instance, the beeper noise is completely annoying. I ended up going into pins.h and cby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL Hello all! My FT 2020 i3 is still running like a champ and printing new stuff all the time. I just purchased and started assembly of my FT5. Anyone else working with an FT5 yet or know if there is a forum for the FT5? I just purchased a MKS Gen V1.4 for migration to a 24V system on my FT 2020. I didn't like the FT solution for only having one z-axis connector (FT5 assembly pdfby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAngoveInc Hello everyone I am new to this cite so any advice or pointers would be very appreciated. I have upgraded my computer which means I have to create all of my old settings in my slicer, I am using Cura at the moment and am open to any other suggestions. I am trying to print multiple parts on the same bed, but I want them to print individually. When I try to do so however, I get an erby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone have recommendations for an all-in-one Ramps and Mega type board? I'm thinking Rambo, Rumba, MKS GEN V1.4... Folger Tech has a MKS GEN V1.4 on their site for sale. The Mega clones and Ramps 1.4 boards are so cheap; has any stand alone board made any traction?by flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix I could not get the nossle to screw off... Even tried vice grips. I took it apart and here are some pics of the ptfe tube, does it look shot? To remove the nozzle should I soak it in acetone to clean it? If it's a pain to reinstall the heater cartridge stick it in a 475 deg F toaster oven for 15-20 min. All my ovens are in Fahrenheit. I use big ole channel locks when I'm fiddlinby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
My x-axis is behaving erratically. It will move violently, in the middle of a print, from the print/part area to beyond the x-max position and then continue the print as if nothing happened. Something is causing a signal to the stepper driver to move the x position a great distance for no reason. So far I have changed the A4988 (it's still messing up.) It's probably time to change out boardsby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm migrating to a new SSD - HDD OS-system. Can I just drag and drop the old files including cura.ini and slic3r_settings.ini into the new RepetierHost Workdirectory? It seems that there should be a better "import settings" within RepetierHost. Hopefully I don't have to rebuild all my filament settings. Although, a clean slate has its advantages. Cue the flow-math headache. "Move over coffeeby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 I am having a little quality issue. I am using the following: 0.3 nozzle head temp 230 bed temp 105 printing on kapton tape/glue stick BLTouch autolevel Hatchbox Copper ABS So as you can see I am not sure if my head is too close to the bed or it is over extruding. The other picture shows the sidewall has some missing lines. Any help would be appreciated. Usually when there areby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYakantosh I am having a bit of trouble setting up my printer to use the sd card support. Using repetier and slicr, I can save the g-code of an object to the card. However, when I put the card into the sd slot in the 2004 lcd display, it will not recognize any files. Is this a firmware issue? If you are able to manually control the machine with the knob I would look at incompatibility ofby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKeary123 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteUltiFix QuoteKeary123 I finally found some more time to work on my printer. I just switched my autoleveling sensor from the right side of the extruder to the left side. Since the endstop is on the left I can get closer to the left edge of the bed with the sensor hanging off of the bed. But now i am having issues getting G28/G29 to work correctly. Before this autobby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker I ask the question before and I think I got buried so I will try again. My bed is taking and unusal amount of time to heat up. Around 5 min or so. Tip is heating at the normal rate. I'm running a different Marlin than before, what settings would control this? The following could be different: //#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4 I would compare Thermal Settings and maybeby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been researching 120 VAC silicon heat pads and I think I came across a Tom video that may have bad advice. It's at the following YouTube address: Isn't switching the neutral a bad idea. I think all 120 vac house wiring is switched on the hot side (black wire). If you freeze the video at 2:35 you'll see the diagram that I have a questions about. The description starts at about 1:55. Isby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotediegzumillo Hi all I have my printer working for a few months already and there is one thing that I could never get rid of. Initially I thought it was z banding so I did all those things people do about z wobble and such. But here is the thing, it's not z banding! I can change the horizontal pattern to different inclinations by varying stuff like extrusion multiplier or the extruder voltageby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar Quoteyayforwaffles Hey all! I'm having one MAJOR issue with my printer. Ever since I got this printer a few months ago, I have not been able to get a good print since my first print. The filament will not extrude for some reason. I'm using a 2020 Prusa i3. Any pointers? Some issues that I'm running into are the following - - Filament won't extrude when I command it to do so usby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteOzenith65OrDie Ok so i tried looking through the forum before posting my question, but it seems that it would be like finding a needle in a hay stack with the amount of post on here. So i got my printer put together and installed all the software, but when i get to the configuration set up, go through all the printer configurations and then try to CONNECT to the printer i get a fatal error "by flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar So something happened to my electronics over the weekend, and I really don't have a clue what did it. I built an enclosure to help with heat retention during ABS prints. In the process, I disconnected most things from the RAMPS and made all my wires nice and neat. I was extremely cautious about making sure everything was hooked up correctly. Once all was reassembled, and did sby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteOneSprague Hi, i built my 2020 this last weekend and have a couple of questions: 1) mine seemed to have the X axis flipped so everything i printed was backwards. I figured this out by looking in this thread and following a solution that was posted. Now it homes correctly to X but when it does it moves over, clicks the switch, goes back a little to the left then goes right again and clicks tby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Doesn't seem to mater if it is Ramps 1.3 or 1.4 are used. Both seem to work, but using 1.4. Got the BLTouch functioning, but now I have changed something that will not allow X and Y homing. Moving in the correct direction but will only move about 10mm and the endstops not controlling anything. Any clue what I should check? I have similar glitchyness until I get all axes homed foby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker My problem comes from when I try to print the extruder is not feeding filament but running backwards and unloading. Will a newer version of Marlin fix this or what settings need changing. Thanks Sam #define INVERT_E0_DIR true // try toggling this true or falseby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRoxy Quoteflatlander QuoteWilberMaker I have got the bed to park in the X and Y where I want but Z still stays in the position of the last print. Is this controlled on the same page in Repetier or is Arduino Marlin file controlling it? Still do not have a firm understanding of the responsibility of the two programs. You probably just want the print head to go up 1 mm or so, home x and y, andby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker I have got the bed to park in the X and Y where I want but Z still stays in the position of the last print. Is this controlled on the same page in Repetier or is Arduino Marlin file controlling it? Still do not have a firm understanding of the responsibility of the two programs. The following is a simplification. The marlin software basically helps the software know your physicaby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril Quoteflatlander Cyril's rig looks like a museum piece. Can you be more specific? :p It looks like it's on a pedestal and about to be enclosed in glass, all white background...the latest postmodern release from the artist know as Cyril. Maybe in a history museum 50 years from now, "This is what people did to create 3d parts." Your pictures struck me as an example of how to put theseby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix So im assuming I connect ground to ground and 5v to the D9 pin? check out: Apologies, if I misread the question or missed the sarcasm. D9, a PWM, output pin(s) has a positive pin and a negative pin. Isn't D9 12-35V? Most of us are running 12V setups. I think these 40 mm cooling fans are also rated 12V. D9 is controlled by GCode, M106 and M107. The command M106 S255 would turnby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteToxic0n 1) Shortening the wires. I'm not looking forward to splicing/soldering tens of wires. Is there a place to buy the connectors so I can just cut the ends and crimp the new connectors on? I purchased HILITCHI brand, 2.54mm pitch, Dupont connectors and a crimping tool (that had a good rating, don't skimp on the tool) from amazon. Someone please double check the pitch... I don't remembby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Working thru my problems one at a time and having fun. Can anyone recommend a good working adjustable Z end stop fpr my folger 2020 i3? Printed out two and not pleased with how they work. I tapped a piece of aluminum angle and bolted it to the right hand mount, much less elegant than Roxy's. It uses a M5 set screw and a lock nut. The key for me was to have the set screw contactby flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants
This "Folger i3 2020 Print Cooling Fan Assembly" didn't need modification:by flatlander - Prusa i3 and variants