Show all posts by user

override bed temperature limit without having to set everything up again? - 4 years ago

Hi there, I built P3steel few years ago and it works like a charm. The firmware is also few years old and i know i should update. I will, when i have time to figure out all the steps/mm and endstop positions, etc.. My current problem is that i need to set bed temperature to 110C, but i had originally set a 100C limit in the Marlin firmware. Because still have some issues with ABS warping in l

by Veesta - Firmware - Marlin

Metal axis or plastic axis for P3Steel? - 7 years ago

Hi there, I have ordered P3Steel 2.5 frame, from eBays and i'm thinking of getting a laser cut steel X-axis parts for it? Any thoughts? I have already printed Toolson parts for it, but then again, steel.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Objects offset - 7 years ago

Scale up 0.2% ? How well is your printer calibrated?

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: If you were lasering a new aluminium Y Carriage and frame, what would you change? - 8 years ago

Cut holes for sc8uu or sc10uu depending which bearings you use. This is my grieve with the Y-carriage that it does not hold a standard bracket bearing. Instead you print a holder or use zip ties. Not sure if optical end stops are actually needed for X and Y, because their homing does not need to be absolute precise. Z-axis, which determines the nozzle height from the bed might be good for op

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Upgrading printer with J-head extruder - 8 years ago

Like this, but with a mounting block that fits your model.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Silent idle possible? - 8 years ago

If only i were a programmer Maybe i can do it? Is the temperature information available in the system like in a variable, so i can check it, compare the values and then turn ON some pin?

by Veesta - RAMPS Electronics

Silent idle possible? - 8 years ago

Hi there, I'm looking at the possibility to configure/modify Marlin to somehow give signal to some 5V pin, (Turn pin high?) that i can use to control either 5V or 12V fans. It is simple electronics once you get the signal to turn ON or OFF. So, is there a "Silent idle" possibility in the Marlin Firmware? What i'd like to do is to turn off extruder fan and electronics fan WHEN bed AND extrude

by Veesta - RAMPS Electronics

Re: P3Steel projektia - 8 years ago

Perskeles huono säkä

by Veesta - Finnish RepRap User Group

Re: Knob on 2004 LCD board how to remove - 8 years ago

umm, unless it has a screw under the top cap, or it has a screw at the side. It just pulls off. I know it might seem a stupid, but unless it has a screw locking it in place -> it will just pull. EDIT: Unless someone glued in place?

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Under extrusion on start - 8 years ago

EDIT: nevermind..

by Veesta - Printing

Re: Extruder skipping in a pattern - 8 years ago

I'm currently printing eSun PLA+ @ 175°C This roll says printing temperature should be around 205-225°C, but those are way too much. I think those temperatures are needed only if you print really fast and really high layers. 20-80mm/s and 0.2 layers seems to be happy at 175°C

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Extruder skipping in a pattern - 8 years ago

Quotemuntahunta it isn't "coming back" out of the extruder, the filament is trying to be pushed through the extruder but its obviously not going and it eventually bends between the gear and the throat, it is then extruded normally but with the bend gets sent outside the extruder. Which is the reason I am thinking something is wrong with the throat as it is not fixed by replacing the nozzle or the

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Extruder skipping in a pattern - 8 years ago

Is your hobbed bolt clean? filament dust in the teeth might cause slipping = stops extruding until it rotates and starts pulling again. EDIT: or bolt has damaged teeth?

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: HELP! Prusa I3 moving to edge of bed at random intervals during print, then the retraction goes out of control - 8 years ago

I'd look at the gcode file too and slicer settings. This movement is not random, because it comes back to the correct position and continues printing.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: heating bed decreases while printing - 8 years ago

Same setting should work. You are measuring current. if you have 1, 10, 100 settings on the multimeter, set to 10. You probably used "1" to measure vref. Polyfuse will break the circuit when it triggers. So, you can measure the current before and after the fuse WHEN heat bed should be turned ON but it is not heating. So, basically you can measure the fuse by first putting the black lead to gro

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: heating bed decreases while printing - 8 years ago

Measure the current from heat bed terminals or from the bed contacts when it starts to drop. it should be 12V. if it is, says, 10V, 8V, 0V etc.. i'd suspect the polyfuse being triggered because it heats a lot. Fuse will recover itself when it cools down enough and will be able to pass current -> raising the bed temperature back to normal. Or PSU problem. If you measure voltage drop from the

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: heating bed decreases while printing - 8 years ago

Polyfuse problems on RAMPS?

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Did i shorten my ramps 1.4? - 8 years ago

You need 12V to set vref on the pots. 5V from USB is not good.

by Veesta - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Print stuck to glass - 8 years ago

I use that same combination, except glue is made by Scotch. Prints on the "fresh" glue layer usually sits really well, that i might even need some force to remove it even after it cools down. But the next 2-4 prints it will pop up after it cools down to room temperature. eventually the glue will fail and needs to be washed off and reapplied. Maybe tap the bottom of a print gently with a small h

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Print stuck to glass - 8 years ago

What glue was that? What material you print?

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: P802 help needed. - 8 years ago

What the heck are those? (i used the word heck instead of the one that this forum does not allow) Washing machines? Prusa = Prusa = Prusa Don't be confused about fancy brand names or models.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Switching from PETG to PLA - 8 years ago

Drop few drops of Dexos2 inside the barrel. (5W-30 engine oil) It helps with eSun PLA. PLA likes to melt in the barrel (tip becomes thicker) and creep up, untill it blocks the barrel and starts to click. It might recover and continue printing, or jams because the hobbed bolt has grind itself onto filament. It is not feeding anymore and you will notice the tip of the filament is really thick when

by Veesta - Printing

Re: NEMA-17 MOTOR STRONGLY BEEPING - 8 years ago

Might be just bad wiring/connectors.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Display knob will not change menu - 8 years ago

You have thermistors connected? Both of them? Marlin will "lock up" when temperatures are out of set range.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Any idea why my printer has started doing this? - 8 years ago

It could be variation in the tape surface properties. This is just a painters tape. It has tolerances. Maybe buy another brand? Or just switch to a new roll? I'd recommend a glue stick for PLA. It is just so easy to print and when print cools down, it just pops off by itself.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: how to print without using the sd card - 8 years ago

It's fun printing directly from computer, until it decides to go to sleep, decides to install updates, decides to freeze, have communication problems with USB or just slow down for some reason. That's when your printer throws a fit. It might just reset Arduino or it might stop and continue extruding filament, keep heating untill it melts, etc... Your print is ruined. It is better to read files/

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: 12V from RAMPS to Arduino - 8 years ago

Thanks, polyfuses! Those polyfuses are pain from the experience. I have 2X40mm fans to cool RAMPS, but of course this new RAMPS and new polyfuses might not be happy with it. I will jump those when/if this problem starts happening during print. Moving the fuses near PSU was my long term plan anyway.

by Veesta - RAMPS Electronics

12V from RAMPS to Arduino - 8 years ago

Hi there, I know Arduino gets 12V through RAMPS and in Arduino it goes through 5V regulator and powers on the Arduino. I know about frying the 5V regulator on Arduino. I have fried mine and replaced it with 7805. I'm printing from SD. i just saw Arduino reset itself during warming up. The screen went blank and displayed Marlin boot screen. So, Is there anything else on the voltage path betwee

by Veesta - RAMPS Electronics

Re: stepstick overheat - 8 years ago

Get a multimeter and measure the voltage from top of the potentiometer and ground. around 0.5V probably works. Maybe more, but that is a good starting point. Add a cooling fan to stepper drivers / Whole RAMPS board.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: MK3 heatbed ABS adhesion - 8 years ago

The sales speech for aluminum heat bed is that you can print directly on it. Just like any other substrate, you can print directly on it. Try it? I hope the first layer works. Corners don't lift, etc.. Alcohol and acetone will always work for cleaning.

by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants