I'm in the process of building a mini Prusa i3 using Nema 17 pancake stepper motors. It all depends on the weight of the X carriage and bed. If you plan to use a direct drive extruder you may want at least Nema 17, and if using a heated bed you'll also want to use Nema 17 motors. If you do use the Nema 14 stepper motors then you'll want to print slow, under 50mms or you may get missed steps.by broy55 - Reprappers
I have 6 different 3D printers, 1 of them is a Delta I custom built. I find that the Delta printer has far less ringing then all my other printers. I believe this is the way the effector is able to move around the bed with little effort or resistance. My Delta printer is very tall, so I can print around 500mm tall parts, but only around 180mm wide. Another advantage is not having the bed move aby broy55 - General
Do yourself a big favor and buy a bunch of nozzles for your hotend. I was running into the same issue with my Anet A8, extruder kept skipping. I had printed ABS then PLA and the two just don't mix well in the nozzle. You can try cleaning the nozzle in acetone, but I just purchased a set of 10 that I can swap out. I stay away from ABS now, and just print PLA. I have another 3D printer for printingby broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
This is awesome. I wonder if this firmware will work with my M505 which I think is the same printer.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
It's the lag in communication between the computer and printer. Print directly from the SD Card to get the fastest print times.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you checked that your prints are calibrated? You need to print a small 20mm cube and see if it actually measures 20mm. Some stuff you download may require you re-size it a bit based on what filament your using or how your printer prints.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
You either have the hotend mixed up with the hotbed on the controller board, or your thermister is not connected/working.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
See this photo. I have my bed temp set to 90, but it reads 97. It only does this with temps above 82c. Very strange behavior. Do think it has something to do with the PID tuning?by broy55 - Reprappers
Start here - and here - After reading all that, if you still have questions then come back and ask us.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
I hate to say this, but you may not have the technical skills to jump into a project like this. Have you done any similar projects in the past? How much computer/technical skills do you have? If you can't provide us pictures or videos, then it's like trying to explain to my wife how to put together a RepRap printer from scratch using only text messaging (would take a million years). You need a goby broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
I may have to upgrade the firmware, only I've heard people have trouble getting the LCD working. The board I have is a cloned Melzi, which has no documentation for it.by broy55 - Reprappers
I have an M505 Prusa that came with the standard heatbed with aluminum plate, and when I try to set the heatbed temp to 95, I notice the temp will rise to 82c and then periodically jump to 95 for a split second and then back to 82c. Could it be a bad thermister? It only does this with temps above 82. I think the bed is heating up to 95, but I'm not getting the correct reading.by broy55 - Reprappers
Someone from another forum - P802M posted this info. This might help. Quoteminhtri.sm The leadscrew Zonestar3D has was pitch 2mm but number of start is 4 that mean its pitch = 4*2 = 8mm so step is 400 Some use the leadscrew that pitch 2mm too but number of start is 1 that mean its pitch = 2*1 = 2mm so step is 1600 The GT2 Pully is 16 tooth so step is 100, Some use GT2 20 tooths so step is 80by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
Try changing the LCD type in the uiconfig.h file. I believe the LCD has a simple 4 bit encoder.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like some filament was left in the extruder. You can use a small torch or heatgun to melt it out. These printers are made cheap, but they will work just fine once everything is tuned up. It took me a few days to get mine up and running, and I had to redo my extruder and hotend. I would get some kapton tape and re-apply it to the hotend, also make sure the thermister is inside the block niceby broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not complaining too much since I have the printer working, just would have been nice had they provided the configuration files. Thanks to OSNWT I should be able to update to the latest firmware, since those settings do seem to match what's in my eerprom. I might upgrade to a ramps controller and e3dv6 later on.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
That's strange that they would give you a firmware file that's totally useless if you needed it. I'm not sure what my board is as there is no documentation on the Internet. I think it's a variant of Melzi but not sure. I've attached a photo.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
So is this ELF file loaded from the SDCARD on the LCD Panel? I was hoping to see all the settings in the file so it would make it easier for me to upgrade the firmware. I was able to look at some of it with notepad, but there is a lot of code in their. Thanksby broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
Check to see that your thermister is secure inside the hotend. I found mine was coming out and couldn't get my temps to stay stable. I re-wrapped my hotend with new kapton tape.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
I asked my selling if they could provide me the firmware for my printer, wanted to see what version they use and they send me an .ELF file. How do I use this file? I can't load it in Arduino.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry, I meant to say 250,000 baud. I might try upgrading the firmware this weekend. Only wish I could somehow determine what's currently installed. By the way, my DA Vinci 2.0 had Marlin firmware on it but I upgraded to repeiter 0.92. I hated Marlin, unless you plan on using Simplify3D with it, I couldn't get any other decent software working on it.by broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
OSNWT, thank you for this good information. I also have the leadscrew rods and noticed my prints were coming out too small. Had to change the steps per mm in the firmware from 80 to 100 for X and Y, Z is set for 400. I might try changing the baud rate from 115200 to 25000. Now I'm not sure if I have the same melzi board as you but my board is square (not rectangular). Is this board still compatiby broy55 - Prusa i3 and variants
Can someone identify this board for me? I can't find any reference to it online, but it has an atmega 1284p chip, and it says ANET V1.0. I think it maybe some variant of the melzi but not sure. Here is the link to this printer from Aliexpress - I believe they called this printer Prusa i3 A8 (for 8th generation). Brianby broy55 - Reprappers