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Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago

QuoteWes78 ....actually let me get straight to the point, when you have leaking heater block . More often then not means you nozzle isn't fully seated against the heat brake. There should not ever be a gap between the nozzle and the heat brake. This will not only cause a leaking heater block but also increase your chances of a jam. My suggested procedure would be screwing in the tip to the he

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago

Thanks guys. As I think about it now, I did have the gap down (toward the hot end) before I had a jam. After the jam I switched it thinking it was for the set-screw. DOH! Going to flip it and get back to the way it should be. As a side note, the gap-up orientation really made it hard to get my bed sensor aligned right ;-). Cheers, J.

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago

Hey, this is going to sound like a dumb question, but in the attached picture the vendor lines up the gap in threads closer to the nozzle end. I thought the gap was for the set-screw in the extruder block? Just wondering if this could be why my hot-end / threaded feed tube are leaking - if I have it upside down? I thought the thread looked about the same - maybe it is not?? Thanks, Jason.

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuotejazzbassNick I had replaced the threaded tube prior. The heater blocks I ordered aren't available - I'm not sure I'd recommend anyway since it didn't have a grub screw to hold the thermistor in, had to use kapton tape. Here's the links to both the tubes and the blocks: Looks like there's some similar available though. Thanks, that helped me find something available on the Canadian Amazo

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuotejazzbassNick When this happened to me, I found that some of the threads of the heater block had actually disintegrated and fell out. I think I ended up getting a set of 5 heater blocks on Amazon. Thanks... don't suppose you still have the links to the blocks you bought? Also... did you replace the threaded tube as well or just the block? Thanks, J

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Hi, I had a filament jam that I cleared up, but ever since clearing it I get melted filament oozing UP over the hot end where the threaded tube enters the hot end block. If it were a water pipe I would just wrap it in silicone tape. I worry though that the stuff from the hardware store might not be rated for the temps here. Anyone have any ideas / recommendations for a quick fix that doesn't

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Thanks... when things slow down (after an event this weekend) I will definitely attack things as you've recommended. For now, I only print when I'm nearby and babysit it like a nervous daddy ;-). Ie. I'm in get'er done mode as I have parts to get printed on a deadline. Thanks for all your help. I always am humbled by the generosity of people on these forums. Cheers, Jason.

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteWes78Something isnt right.. as a test i pointed a fan + the cooling fan at my hotend and i dont have any problems with it keeping temperature. changing the fan shroud out may be a way to get by with it but really not the "fix" I didnt read back to see, so just gonna ask right fast Out of curiosity... have you done a PID tune on the hotend? If you have, how many cycles did you run with PID

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteCanadian GeekThis is a modification I made of the same one as mentioned above. I did the modification so I could mount LEDs around the nozzle. Now my old eyes can see what I'm printing: Jeff p.s. You may want to print it it ABS. I did it in PLA and it has warped a bit since. Nothing too bad but the next time I print it I'll be using ABS. Thanks Jeff... I knew you had done something

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuotejazzbassNick I was using this shroud almost immediately since the one that came with it kept falling apart: Thanks! J

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Quoteuberjay Well, I'm back to a Thermal Runaway again. Thought I had that licked... per Ax's recommendation I increased the thickness of the wire from the supply to the control board. Still need to do so for the bed, but I was getting some good prints. Now this... on a tiny 10 minute job. Any ideas? I know... replace the bed wires... is it really that obvious a fix? I'm just curious bec

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Well, I'm back to a Thermal Runaway again. Thought I had that licked... per Ax's recommendation I increased the thickness of the wire from the supply to the control board. Still need to do so for the bed, but I was getting some good prints. Now this... on a tiny 10 minute job. Any ideas? I know... replace the bed wires... is it really that obvious a fix? I'm just curious because it is th

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteAx That wire is fine, you can leave it. It's just the wire from the power supply to the board and the one from the heatbed to the board you need to worry about. Ah! Okay then, that makes my life much easier. I was wondering about that. Thanks, J

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Can anyone point me at the how-to to remove the heater element from the hot end so I can put some thicker guage wire on it? Or do I just have to solder it inline on the machine? I tried just pushing the heating element out of the head, but it's not budging and I don't want to bust it. Thanks, J

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteAx As a note, when I finally sort my Mostly Printed CNC out, I'll be modelling out the frame for cutting in Aluminium plate, I will be offering these frames as a replacement for the Acrylic as well as a full Prusa i3 kit, the MetalMig. The MetalMig will be a Migbot, but my style with a metal frame, an E3D Lite6 Hot End and should hopefully just work out of the box. Sounds like I need to sta

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteCanadian GeekHey J, you must have some 14 AGW wire lying around for one of your RC planes. I forgot to tell you that I changed those wires on mine and a lot of problems went away. I used some silicone coated 14AGW due to the flexibility. A bit more expensive but you saw how I have the wire in the chain guide so it flexes better. Jeff p.s. Ax, Thanks for helping J. I was beginning to r

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteAx No, just the power wires.. the thermistor wires do not carry much current at all. As for buying a $300 printer, the old adage apples. You get what you pay for. Thanks... again on the wires/confirmation. Yeah, I get the cheap printer thing. But I don't agree with vendors that sell it as a package that should work and, well, it doesn't. Also, it hits hard here as that $300 printer that

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteAx Not a problem, I would change the wire out on both the bed and from the PSU ASAP, they are both under gauge, them getting warm is a fire hazard as they are resisting the flow of current. The bed can be 16 AWG as it's not pulling as much current as the board. So you mean the power and the thermistor wires are under guage? I'm beginning to think buying this thing was a mistake.... I spen

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Quotegotswrv Uberjay, Change out the wires as mentioned. Another thing I've found troublesome is if a fan is is blowing on the hot end. I now have the extruder fan taped up to keep any leakage from getting to the hot end. I couldn't feel the airflow, never would have guessed it was trouble. Ended up accidentally having that fan off once and noticed my temp was rock solid all of the sudden. No m

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteAx Change it to 14 AWG, It's under gauge. Had something similar with the 4th Migbot's bed until I changed out the wire. Made a huge difference. I'm betting the wire's warm when the printer is running. Thanks... I'll get to that for sure. Did a quick hack to see if I could kludge out the hysteresis calc without letting it dip to low or jump too high: #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

QuoteAx Are you running the stock wire from the PSU to the MKS motherboard? Yup. I think the resistance I measured (at the plug end) was ~ 125 k.

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Hey Ax, The temperature drops. On the Thermal Runaway frozen screen I typically see ~195/0 as the last hot end temp when printing 210. Thanks, J

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago

Hi folks, I'm in the midst of getting my i3 to work. It's all assembled, Ax's Marlin 1.1 firmware loaded, large size bed all setup and leveled, setup using autolevel (using Ax's large bed & auto level configuration.h). I did the auto PID tuning as well on the extruder. Here's my problem.... if I print PLA at 205 degrees it prints fine, but if I print at 210 I get Thermal Runaway issues.

by uberjay - Prusa i3 and variants