There are several things that can be affecting this. The smaller the layer height, the smaller the quantity of material that is extruded for a given length of print. If there is a small error in extruder calibration or any slip of the filament this will become more obvious as the layer thickness decreases. As the layer thickness decreases the gap through which the filament must flow reduces. Thisby Supermec - Printing
Device manager will not load the CH340 driver unless the printer is connected via the USB. Some control boards can take 5V from the USB, others can't, so turn the printer on. You should then be able to see an entry under com and lpt ports for SERIAL 340G COMx, where x is the allocated port. Check that the baud rate matches your printer's default setting and that the allocated com port is within tby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
If you rotate the two steppers by hand with the power off, then you will probably find that one is noticeably stiffer than the other. This will cause the stiffer motor to miss steps. Slacken the motor mounting bolts and the securing bolts for the brass dienut on that side and gently wiggle the leadscrew, retighten everything. You should be able to get it to the point that both motors will turn frby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
At the same time that you have the caliper out take a measurement of the filament diameter at intervals over about 1m. Work out the average diameter and set that as the filament diameter in the slicer. Print a label with the figure on and stick it on the reel for future reference. Some slicers default to strange filament diameters if you don't set them correctly. Calibrating the extruder as suggeby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Twmaster, first check for dry joints where the bed connector pins are soldered into the board. Check that the resistance connected to the gate of the bed mosfet reads correctly at 10K and that there are no dry joints associated with the soldering of the mosfet onto the board. Make sure that the bed power feed wires are correctly inserted into the connector and well tightened. For the next bit jusby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Just to add that what you have probably fried is the analogue to digital converter on the processor chip that converts the analogue input to digital. If you were able to flash the bios afterwards then the rest of the chip is probably working. However, you will still need to replace the board.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
There are only three components in the bed temperature monitoring circuit. Resistor R37, capacitor C43 and the bed thermistor. Unplugging the bed thermistor while turned on would produce the "def" that you mention on the display, but there is no way that this action would have damaged the control board itself. Where I suspect that the damage arose, was when you plugged the bed thermistor back inby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, hope I have picked the correct section. I have an Anet A8 with the original control board, which is a variation on the circuit of the Melzi 2 board. The picture attached shows the control circuitry for the print cooling fan, which is identical to that for the hotbed and hotend. What I don't understand is that the control signal for the fan is shown as FAN (NOT_FAN). Similarly the respectby Supermec - Sanguino(lolu)
Having had a look at the Marlin website I think that thermal runaway can affect the bed as well as the extruder. The comment is "if the measured temperature drifts too far from the target temperature for too long the machine will shut down with a Thermal Runaway error". Have a look in the advanced config.h file.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
The problem with all 12V printers is that they draw around 12 Amps to heat a 140W hot bed and a further 3 to 4 amps for the 40W extruder. When all the current goes through the same power connector the total current is around 15 Amps plus. Unless the wires used are suitably sized and properly terminated for their connections, the connections can loosen with time as a result of heating and cooling.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
What filament were you printing, ABS or PLA, and what were the target temperatures for bed and extruder? I assume with the bed showing an actual tempeature of 86C that it was ABS. Some hot bed / PSU combinations are under powered and struggle to get the bed above around 86C unless in an enclosure. If your target bed temperature was above 86 this could be what has triggered the failure.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't think that your man is correct in his advice. You must have a clearance between the nozzle and the glass to enable the head to move without scratching the glass or wearing the nozzle. I normally just use the thickness of an ordinary sheet of printer paper which is a little under 0.1mm. Thinking about your problem. I don't normally use a different layer thickness for the first layer and iby Supermec - Printing
I would put the period back to the original settings and increase the hysteresis to 8. However, before you increase the hysteresis, make absolutely sure that your part cooling fan is blowing below the tip of the nozzle, and not onto the nozzle or extruder heater block. If it blows onto the block it can affect the temperature and may cause similar problems. If you have an extruder cooling fan, theby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
The bottom layer problem can be improved by printing with a brim to assist with it sticking to the bed. With smaller objects set the minimum layer time to a suitable value or print off several objects at the same time. It is important that each layer hardens enough before printing the next layer on top. You bed temperatures are a bit high for PLA, and approaching the "glass temperature", I wouldby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Thermal runaway shutdown is normally triggered when the temperature of the bed or extruder exceeds the MAXTEMP value. Have a look in your firmware settings and make sure that the values are suitable for the temperatures you are using during printing. If you are using a solid state relay for controlling either the bed or extruder then make sure that it is a DC/DC type not AC/DC. The AC/DC ones doby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Just to add to Satorcodex's excellent advice. Before levelling the bed make sure there is no filament sticking to the bottom of the nozzle, otherwise your setting will not be correct.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
What rating power supply are you using? My experience is that anything less than 360W does not provide enough power. Your printer might be experiencing a voltage drop on the PSU, or even spikes on the mains supply. Someone recently was experiencing problems with their printer resetting when a nearby refrigerator kicked in, causing a momentary drop in mains voltage.by Supermec - Printing
Glad you got it sorted. I haven't offered much advice as I'm not expert at re-compiling firmware. Just for your future information though, the Anet V1.0 board carries a 16MHz crystal for the ATMega1284p.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
If as you say the UPS kicks in when the problem happens, and it is associated with something such as the fridge turning on, then I would say that you do not have enough current capacity available on the mains power circuit that you are using. The other possibility is that voltage/current changes are causing glitches in the computer USB. This can cause the printer to reset, even when printing offby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Vgala9, I somehow had I it in my mind that you had an A8 when I posted my last reply. However the mechanics of calculating steps per mm are the same, with the relevant figures for your printer. Slow movement of the Z axis could simply be an incorrect value for Z Axis Maximum feed-rate in the firmware (assuming that the lead-screws turn freely when operated by hand with the steppers off). What vby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Vgala9, Yes, the steps per mm are based on the lead-screws. These are 2mm pitch 4 start threads giving effectively 8mm pitch. The steppers are 1.8 degree full steps, giving 200 full steps per revolution, or with 1/16 micro-stepping (as on the A8) 3200 micro-steps per revolution. The steps per mm are 3200/8 = 400 steps per mm, which is the standard setting for the A8.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you sure that the filament is entered properly into the throat tube ?by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have the slicer set for solid top and bottom infill, with a depth for that infill ? If you don't then the infill will default to the % set generally.by Supermec - Printing
djlapan, I suggest that you check the connections at the pads on the bed itself again !!! There are two heater tracks on the dual voltage Mk2a beds, and both must be connected correctly to get the full output of the bed. The resistance that you are reading at the bed suggests that you only have one of the two tracks connected which will halve the heat output. You say that you are running the beby Supermec - Printing
djalapan, as the digital dentist has already said, check how you have the heater power connected to the bed. It sounds as though you are running it off 12V and have the connections wrong. The Mk2a 12/24V bed has two seperate heating tracks, these are wired in parallel for 12V operation and in series for 24V, so the connections are different for the two operating voltages. Follow the table printby Supermec - Printing
Vgala9 It would seem then that they have sent you a 24V version, they read around 14.4 ohms. I am absolutely certain that this is the cause of your problems. You could just get a replacement cartridge, but when you receive it check that one as well before going to the trouble of fitting it. Best of luck.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
If your auto-level sensor is capacitive rather than inductive then you can use a glass plate. A capacitive sensor will read the surface of the glass rather than the surface of the bed. I have an aluminium surfaced hot bed over which I have fitted a piece of 3mm aluminium sheet, to form a sacrificial printing surface that can be easily replaced. I use two layers of the cheapest and nastiest superby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
I know of several people who have ordered 12V hot ends and received 24V versions instead (although marked as 12V). Firstly check that what you actually received is in fact a 12V hot end. Take a resistance across the heater wires, it should read around 3.6 ohms. If it reads over 10 ohms then it is a 24V version and it will only put out around 10W on 12V, which could be the reason that it is strugby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you tried the printers own controls - Menu/Position/Z position to try moving the Z axis up and down? If you have, and it still only moves in one direction, then it sounds like there is a problem with the signal to the DIR direction control of the Z stepper driver. On the Anet board, some of the a4988 connections are hidden by the heatsinks glued to the top of the chips and I haven't yet beeby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
One of the advantages of Repetier Host is that you can slice a model and then step up and down the sliced result one layer at a time and view how it is going to print. However, in Repetier, check under Config, "units of imported objects". The STL file is to an extent unitless, simply values. In repetier you need to tell the software what the actual units are so that the model is loaded at the corby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants