@DjDemonD - ordered some 20mm discs off eBay. @swoozle - really really sorry for hijacking your thread got carried away with DjDemonD's design suggestion, back to topic! Though DJDemonD's probably right in that the piezo disc design is a better Z probe solution and seeing that dc42's also going that direction with his PCB effector and carriage design it would seem that's the way to go forward.by siddharta - Delta Machines
For 10 GBP I probably won't go through the hassle of building one, thanks for pointing that out. The design using the 20mm discs you're referring to is the groovemount design on Thingiverse here? Unfortunately the piezo's I ordered are 27mm Murata's, so I'd have to rework that design or get some 20mm discs. edit: PM'd Moriquendi , thanks again!by siddharta - Delta Machines
Yes that was going to be my next attempt. I've been following your design on and off (and I must say, thanks, it's really great work). Some time ago I ordered a set of Murata piezo discs off eBay - haven't gotten around to trying them out yet though (and the project seemed to be in flux still). The thread you linked to I assume has the final design? Looks like I have some reading to catch up to aby siddharta - Delta Machines
That lines up with how the IR sensor has been behaving for me. A bare PEI sheet on matt black painted glass will not work well as the adhesive layer throws off the IR probe On a brand new PEI sheet that's well painted the IR sensor works decently, but as soon as the PEI starts to get scuffed and needs reworking results become less consistent. I really like the IR sensor because it's well designedby siddharta - Delta Machines
I'd suggest to have a look at the calculator at escher3d.com (Delta wizard) - if you get a set of feeler gauges on eBay or at your local DIY store that's a pretty fast way to get as accurate a calibration as your build will allow.by siddharta - Delta Machines
I only have used kits from AnyCubic, but they are not without their flaws and from what I have read in the FLSUN thread those have their issues as well. It's not unlikely the Micromake Delta has its particular set of issues as well. And all have in common that being Deltas calibration is not straightforward, moreso if you have no prior hands-off experience with other printers (3D printing has itsby siddharta - Delta Machines
If the budget is flexible and you don't mind putting in some effort to source the parts rather than buying an off the shelf kit have a look at dc42's large Kossel build - link hereby siddharta - Delta Machines
RC's branch just *feels* wrong (to me) because it was forked so long ago and there have been so many bugfixes in Marlin since then...but it definitely isn't wrong to use it, moreso if it works well for you! For Delta's at least I wholeheartedly agree that almost any firmware would work better than Marlin RC(bugfix).by siddharta - Delta Machines
Hi JustAnotherOne, for the moment there are no plans to opensource the schematics. While I too advocate (and will continue to do so) a more open approach (I don't believe for example that open sourcing RepRapFirmware and the Duet boards has hampered sales of that board in any way and the benefits are numerous), for the foreseeable future it is a closed source product. That said, I have still deciby siddharta - Controllers
Agreed re RRF on Duet, but that's a whole different class and price point. Is testing much better than the rcbugfix branch? I tried Rich Cattell's branch at some point but that firmware has not been updated for so long that it almost seems wrong to use it, the autocalibration worked pretty well though. With regular Marlin (RCbugfix) I can't set tower offsets in degrees, which makes no sense toby siddharta - Delta Machines
How many steps/mm on your XYZ steppers? Also, do you have a graphic LCD connected? If so, I'd suggest disable it in firmware and try again, or replace it with a 4 line LCD2004 which is less taxing. In my experience Repetier is smoother with Deltas than Marlin and the printer can be calibrated more easily (Marlin has a weird and in my experience not so logical way of handling tower angular offsetsby siddharta - Delta Machines
Hi, I'm the authorized distributor of these boards for the EU region and we will have these boards available for local purchase shortly, with full support. The firmware is closed source and supports Cartesian, Delta and CoreXY configurations, fully configurable through the touch interface. There are add-on modules for WiFi connectivity and dual extrusion support. The firmware is under active deveby siddharta - Controllers
Hi, it actually worked out well, with both Marlin and Repetier firmware. The only issue was with the display (or, to be accurate, the keypad) which at the time wasn't very well supported in firmware and I had to spend quite some time getting that to work. Now both Marlin and Repetier have support for the 5-button keypad + LCD2004. I've in the mean time replaced the 2560+RAMPS with an original Aby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRaBrand Go into the Arduino Software, select configuration.h, search for "#define EXT0_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN ORIG_FAN2_PIN" and change the pin number in the end to 44. Click upload and your printer should now start at a temperature, which you can change again in configuration.h by changing the last number in this setting: "#define EXTRUDER_FAN_COOL_TEMP 50" I'm using Repetier firmware 0.92.9by siddharta - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi, I've uploaded the mount(s) to Thingiverse, link here. If you mount it on the fan you'll need to add some washers to the bolts to ensure the sensor is not tilted.by siddharta - Delta Machines
Check the wiring of the X endstop to see if it triggers properly. Swap the cable of the X endstop with that of another tower and see if the issue moves with the cable or stays with the tower. If it moves with the cable redo the connector (board side would be the most likely culprit), if it stays with the tower swap the X endstop switch to another tower. If the issue moves with the switch the switby siddharta - Delta Machines
Having said that, it's still not a substitute for good building and calibration. Try the wizard at escher3d.com, that worked wonders for me.by siddharta - Delta Machines
I have similar issues when messing around with Marlin, the probe grid is not evenly distributed over the bed surface. It probes a section of the bed, the outer part of which is outside the range the effector can reach unless I set a very small probe radius. I may give Rich Cattell's branch a try. old as it is.by siddharta - Delta Machines
Which Arduino version are you using? Try with an older one like 1.6.4. Older Marlin firmware doesn't compile well on 1.6.9 and 1.6.10 in my experience and from what I can see Rich Cattell's branch hasn't been updated for some time.by siddharta - Delta Machines
The AnyCubic printers with their TriGorilla board use Marlin firmware and work perfectly with Simplify3D. I haven't tried any Z probes (autolevel sensors) with the TriGorilla board, only with the Duet, but both hardware and firmware support Z probe and either probe you linked to would work. Having tried different probe models (inductive, capacitive, mechanical and IR) the one I have found the mosby siddharta - Delta Machines
Hi, I mailed you the firmware for two AnyCubic models (regular Kossel which they call "Linear Plus" and the Kossel Mini ("Pulley" or "Linear"). Note that for any other printer model things may be set up differently. The steps/mm value is derived from your hardware, i.e. the stepper motor (steps/revolution), microstepping (should be 1/16th if you're using the A4988 Allegro drivers), belt pitch (2by siddharta - Delta Machines
Hi, sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I neglected to follow the topic and haven't checked in for a while. Are you still having the endstop issue or did you manage to resolve it? If not, what are you getting when running M119 when the endstops are triggered and when not? Also, check that you have them connected using the outer two of the three terminals on the microswitches. You can useby siddharta - Delta Machines
Wow. I would give them a call, I found that when getting them on the phone things moved along. Hope you received your parts soon.by siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
Great, you have the most important values there so it should not be too hard, unless Micromake is using some very non-standard parts (but likely they don't). Good luck.by siddharta - Duet
Just wanted to share my (positive) experience with swapping out the default board on my AnyCubic AliExpress Kossel Mini to the Duet. It was easy to do, just look up the parameters in the firmware of the Micromake if you're not certain. If you post a link to the firmware I'd be happy to see if I can dig those out for you in case of doubt.by siddharta - Duet
Quotefaroutmm Have a new Prusa anet a8 i3. Starts up and temp sensors read 24c on extruder and -51c on hotbed for just a second then they both read def. printer seems to be stuck in dry run mode and cannot be switched out. I've tripled check connections, checked voltages, and hit the reset button on board. Any ideas? Please help! Did you measure the thermistor resistance with a multimeter? I thiby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I would suggest to download the Skynet3D v2.0 firmware from link. The link to the download is in the first post in Spanish, a Google drive link but not formatted to show up as a link. I don't know if I'm allowed to post the link by itself. Anyway, the Skynet3D firmware comes with full installation instructions, is easy to install (the archive contains a standalone preconfigured Arduino IDEby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedc42 Quotesiddharta When reassembled I'll try the escher3d calibration routine, however, reading that I would need to sort out the issue with the limited motion range of the effector to get any useful results. The calibration routine I published at escher3d is based on the one I wrote in RepRapFirmware. As you are running on a Duet WiFi, you are running RepRapFirmware. So if you have a Z prby siddharta - Delta Machines
OK that makes sense, much appreciate the insights. I look forward to resuming this project in a day or 10!by siddharta - Delta Machines
Hi, thanks for your reply (all are so helpful here, really like this community). I disassembled the printer to build it up from the ground again to see if I can get a more precise alignment of the towers, as well as to clean out the pulleys on the stepper motors and check they are properly fastened on the shafts (which they are). I have more than 0.1 mm variance on the arms. I had already orderedby siddharta - Delta Machines