Yup just depends on which heater block design your printer has use calipers or plain old ruler to check out the dimensions of your heater block I don't think these cheaper kits come with a genuine e3d hot end so would guess the more generic black one is the right style but best to just measure dimensions on yours to be sure.by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Recommend following this vid the channel is generally very good, I've learned a lot from him/the channel in general too:by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Also like I mentioned before look at physically fixing the root problem too, a silicone sock for the heater block and nozzle can help regulate the temp and stop filament from sticking to the nozzle/block or some kapton tape wrapping it can work as well. In general you shouldn't need to reduce the part cooling fan speed if it is directed properly and everything else is well insulated enough.by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Make sure you are using the advanced or expert views and have an up to date version of slic3r it's now marketed as prusaslicer.by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
The part cooling fan settings are configured in the slicer settings usually in the filament settings section but this varies a bit depending on the slicer software. It sounds like you probably want to try doing pid tuning though and/or adjust the fan so it doesn't blow on the heater block so much but blows down at the tip of the nozzle and part below more than at the heater block since you wantby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Teckincal, Glad to hear you sorted out your LCD issue sometimes can be reversed cables or other things but you got it corrected before I had a chance to start guessing Regarding the extruder on and off I haven't seen that issue myself but I just followed the PDF guide when I first built my machine and used whatever version of repetier they had linked and did the config as explained in the gby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Regarding the print bed mount my acrylic one warped some after being in a heated enclosure so I replaced with a sheet of thin steel from the hardware store. Ideally just get one that is sized right at least in one dimension and then can just cut down one edge to get it to size, I cut mine with a Dremel metal cutting tool and lots of patience (also some bending like a credit card to snap off theby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
I got myself a MK3 original kit after a few years with the reprap guru kit learning and upgrading I decided to just wholesale replace it... I am not disappointed. The MK3 is an incredible upgrade (I know it should be given the price difference, but it is a massive improvement). Now working on "upgrading" or really replacing most the parts on my RepRap Guru machine, will post back here once it'sby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Yup either way works so long as you can push the pins out of one side of the connector you can still swap them around if need be so shouldn't be an issue. Absolute worst case scenario can always cut and splice the wires between the connectors too, but just more work than lifting the plastic clips and pulling the wires out of the connector usually.by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
With a "NEMA 17" that is telling you the dimensions of the box it's in, in terms of height and width (1.7") but doesn't tell you anything about the depth of the motor. The deeper/taller the motor is the more wires in the coils and the longer the magnets so the more torque it will have for holding force or turning, that said extruder motors don't typically need to push extremely hard or work agaiby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Just wanted to follow up on the GT2560 and stepper driver updates too. In the end I am pretty happy with having replaced the arduino+ramps 1.4 with the GT2560 that has everything baked onto one board and adds some power/safety features with fuses and heatsinks on the MOSFETs. The temp comes up much more quickly and is rock solid with regard to stability so much happier with that. The re-wiringby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure who this Nick guy is but there is a check in the default firmware for min temp on the hot end before it allows the extruder motor to run. Default is 170C for min temp assuming the prevent cold extrusion is uncommented there like shown in my copy of Marlin here: Note don't use my configuration since I've upgraded by hot end and changed the main controller board and stepper drivers whiby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Glad to hear it! I decided to try upgrading my own setup after reading up more on this issue it seems there are some safety concerns with the amount of amps being pushed through some small traces on the RAMPS 1.4 version of the board (hard to say if it's just fear uncertainty and doubt spreading, but figure it's worth trying something new anyway). I'm going to try out a GT2560 board that has soby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Well as far as I have seen so far from the posts here it seems like it's really all one issue just showing its face in a few different ways. Best guess at this point is just MOSFETs overheating and/or not getting properly 'triggered' to open the gate (all MOSFETs have three pins the source the gate and the drain, if you 'open the gate' with voltage then you allow current to flow from the sourceby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure about which safety mode you mean but typically a reboot only takes somewhere around 10 seconds for marlin itself (my octopi interface takes longer to reboot when that's needed). Would try printing from SD card rather than over USB the USB connection for printing from repetier hasn't worked out great for me in the past (I used repetier for initial setup but typically use octopi or the SDby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
What temp are you trying to get the bed to as well might be running into issue #2 here Might be worth trying to move the mosfet that is controlling power going to the heated bed so it isn't near anything else generating heat or put a heat sink on it (possibly lower bed temp if that's an option).by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Just to try some basic things would see if moving the printer somewhere free of drafts would help, alternatively could make a foam or cardboard enclosure that at least wraps the sides of the printer to help keep whatever heat it's producing around it. One other relatively simple thing to check or try is the voltage on the power supply it should be at least 12V. If those two things don't help anby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
You're actually better off hooking it directly to 12V and GND right off the power supply. The fan on the extruder that keeps the top half of the metal block cold should be on full blast the whole time. If the upper part of the heater block gets too hot the plastic will melt early and gum up in the top of the block instead of melting last second which is ideal. Had mine hooked up to D9 for a whby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you using custom firmware or the firmware that came with the kit? Also have you tried covering the whole printer with a box to see if it's better able to control temp (possibly it is in a drafty area so it isn't getting stable readings from the thermistors)by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Hah no problem yeah I had done the same thing originally. The regular extruders are sort of forgiving with not having the hot end cooling fan on all the time but e3d all metal one tends to get bound/clogged alot more if the cooling fan isn't on all the time.by wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Basically directly on the power supply is the answer for the always on fan it's a 12V fan so can hook it right to 12V power supply connections. The part cooling fan should be hooked to D9 next to the heater connections on the RAMPS 1.4 board. Quotewafflejock The part cooling fan can be plugged into the fan port on the ramps board since it can vary the speed on that one so the part sticks to theby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Yup it's a few pages back in the topic here but will link again: I upgraded to E3D v6 hotend and tried to keep the rest of the configuration values the same (also updated to the latest Marlin firmware that was out at the time so can get auto bed levelling if i add the sensor for it ever). Other things to look out for I think the acceleration and jerk in the x and y probably need to be reducedby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't but I do want to get one and I did update to the latest firmware by just copying over the old values from the original firmware that came with my kit. I linked the updated firmware on the previous page (fork of the latest when I decided to update mine). I do want the bed leveling features eventually but was personally just looking to get the thing close to new version of the firmware, fby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
The part cooling fan can be plugged into the fan port on the ramps board since it can vary the speed on that one so the part sticks to the bed without the fan on at first and it kicks on to help cool layers after the first few, or in other scenarios you might want to adjust the part cooling fan speed. Edited snippet For 12V power source ^^ Regarding a computer deciding to go rogue mid priby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
My guess is yes but wondering if you were able to try this when you returned from work. I believe I linked my repo above with the updated configuration for working with the heat bed and I also updated the config to use the thermocouple value for the e3d v6 hot end since I upgraded that but otherwise it should basically work (I tried just moving all the old config values to their new place in theby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Hiya Lancer3D, No worries I just joined the forum here too figured if I was going to do the legwork to get the configuration updated to use the latest firmware I might as well join and share what I was working on. Honestly don't recall if the Arduino Mega board came preflashed with the code or not but doesn't hurt to update it really and can do some diagnostics with the mega board by itself toby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
Lancer3D need some more details about what's going on to say what to try next. When you say the LCD turns on do you mean you get the menu or just the backlight turns on? Did you flash the marlin code onto the mega board already? does it show as successfully uploaded when doing that? If you don't get any power on the mega board when you hook it up to the 12V it's likely you blew the voltage regby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a RepRap Guru Prusa i3 kit I bought a little over a year ago and have been really happy with it overall. Have definitely had my share of issues including but not limited to: - a small fire but not the fault of the power supply but rather my wiring and the jack on the ramps board coming loose - blowing the power regulator on the arduino board by flipping the switches around (now using USby wafflejock - Prusa i3 and variants