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Re: print quality awfull out of the blue - 4 years ago

What kind of hot end does this printer use? I was looking at the manual and it appears to be an MK8 style. The manual suggests a limit of 260C, so I'm guessing it is a PTFE lined heat break? If PTFE, what is the condition of it? The manual also suggests printing speeds of 60mm/s with travel of 80mm/s, so it may be worth limiting your speed for testing purposes. The large z seams may be cause

by jefbed - Printing

Re: Printing ABS in a closed box failing - 4 years ago

In slic3r and Prusa Slicer, enable auto cooling for your filament. If it is still too molten, you can modify your layer change gcode. in "Printer Settings->After layer change G-code", something like the following may be useful: ; G91 ; relative G0 Z10 ; lift Z G4 S15 ; wait 15 seconds G0 Z-10 ; lower Z G90 ; absolute ; Also, regarding too-narrow nozzle width settings: I've found that one ma

by jefbed - Printing

Re: Thingiverse taking it's last breath? - 4 years ago

No one buys their printers except for public libraries and schools at this point, and usually even these customers have very little technical knowledge about 3D printing--they are apt to think that they are getting better quality because they are spending more money. I noticed the ad block thing yesterday. It was a nag, not a block, but it admittedly angered me too. I've simply stopped publish

by jefbed - General

Re: Gaps in prints and printed object is not strong(breaking) - 4 years ago

I haven't used 4982 drivers before, but with 4988 drivers, which may be similar, I have to set VREF so 750mV to get the clicking to stop. Using an E3D v6 hot end below my MK8 extruder in a direct drive configuration works well. If you still experience clicking, I'd recommend going with a geared extruder such as the Titan or Greg's Wade's one. The gaps occur when the nozzle loses pressure, such

by jefbed - Printing

Re: Gaps in prints and printed object is not strong(breaking) - 4 years ago

What kind of stepper drivers are you using? What is your extruder stepper driver's VREF? What kind of hot end are you using? What kind of extruder are you using?

by jefbed - Printing

Re: Adapting My OLD reprap to 1.75 filament, need Help - 4 years ago

The extruder may work fine with 1.75mm filament, depending on the groove depth of your hobbed bolt. The heater cartridge and thermistor will still work. If the threading on that heat break is M7, you should be able to use a 1.75mm e3d heat break and nozzle. If you want to minimize rewiring, an older style or clone heater block that uses a screw to secure the thermistor will work. If you want

by jefbed - Reprappers

Re: Y-axis defects - 4 years ago

Looking at the top of the model, it does look like its not under-extruding. I was focused on the hole on the left on the 2nd picture--maybe the retraction is too high. I see the bumps on the corners sometimes too, as an artifact of slic3r. The ribbing on the model surface looks to be from the infill printing before the perimeters.

by jefbed - Reprappers

Re: Y-axis defects - 4 years ago

It looks like under-extrusion as well as possibly not enough tension on the y belt.

by jefbed - Reprappers

Re: How much slop is acceptable on carriages. - 5 years ago

Some acrylic pieces may not have been cut with correct hole distances. On the Tarantula's X carriage, I added a new hole for an eccentric spacer center of the two original ones, but slightly closer to the rail. In order to do this, I gradually increased bit size from smallest such as to not crack the plate, then finished it with a needle file until the eccentric spacer fit. I was able to prope

by jefbed - Mechanics

Re: 12864 lcd erratic pixel problems - 5 years ago

It may be electromagnetic interference. It may be a quality problem with a cheap Chinese knock-off. I have the same problem with one installed on a Folger Tech RepRap 2020 i3. I think in my case the cables may be too long. I'll eventually put on some ferrite cores or switch back to the 2004 discount display.

by jefbed - General

Re: Blocked nozzle - 5 years ago

Yes, the Titan comes with a bowden adapter. You will have to re-calibrate your e-steps.

by jefbed - Reprappers

Re: Blocked nozzle - 5 years ago

Once you get the tip of your ptfe tubing on the square, you may want to check your coupler. The ones included with the Tarantula are of low quality and may slip out, so the force of your filament pushing against the tubing may push it away from the nozzle. Also, the stock pinch extruder is crap and the Chinese MK8 style nozzles tend to require more extrusion force than E3D nozzles, so make sure

by jefbed - Reprappers

Re: How to recycle a ReprRapPro MENDEL - 5 years ago

I put the first Mendel I built in a Lack-style enclosure and use it for my ABS prints. I just finished an overhaul of its extruder, worked around a blown mosfet, rewired it, re-squared and tightened the frame, and set up OctoPrint control/monitoring. It may be worth doing similar, simply rebuilding it and dedicating it to specific prints/materials or making it part of a larger enclosure build.

by jefbed - General Mendel Topics

Re: Is kapton tape necesary? - 5 years ago

I've only tried printing PLA on untreated glass. I've had much more luck printing ABS using glass coated with hair spray than trying to print on a kapton tape coated bed (more trouble than it was worth and insufficient adhesion). I maintain a thick coating of Aqua Net Extra Super Hold on the glass, reapplying it wherever the previous print occurred, and not cleaning it.

by jefbed - Reprappers

Re: Is kapton tape necesary? - 5 years ago

Bare glass will also work for PLA unheated if you apply gluestick and compress the first layer. It helps to use a thicker nozzle, like 0.6mm and take the first layer slowly. Add a brim if you experience warping or parts popping free.

by jefbed - Reprappers

Re: Small features not printing correctly - 5 years ago

What temperature, material, and speed are you using? To me it looks too cool or too fast. Also, make sure the "Slow down if print time is below" is high enough and the "Min print speed" setting is low enough in the filament cooling settings of slic3r. For example, I use 20 and 5 for PLA, respectively, and 15 and 1 for ABS.

by jefbed - Printing

Re: Folger Tech RepRap Prusa i3 - General Advice - 5 years ago

The latest Marlin 1.1.9 or Repetier 1.0.3 will work. It would be easiest to start with a clean extraction of Marlin. Then copy "Marlin/example_configurations/FolgerTech/i3-2020/Configuration.h" and "Marlin/example_configurations/FolgerTech/i3-2020/Configuration_adv.h" to "Marlin/", overwriting the extant entries. Then edit both files systematically, line by line, reading the comments carefully

by jefbed - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Folger Tech RepRap Prusa i3 - General Advice - 5 years ago

Mkiernan, you can use this: FT-2020-DISCOUNT-LCD-jefbed-0.patch. I submitted these corrections, but they were ignored. This patch will get Folger Tech's Google Drive firmware working. It will also fix the directional errors in the default configuration (mirrored prints). You will have to put your X end stop on the left side of the axis and put its plug in the X min endstop port (the last port

by jefbed - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Couple of basic questions on Sintron Prusa I3 - 5 years ago

It might be worth putting a small heat sink on the Arduino's voltage regulator, of course being careful not to short anything. Also,you can probably fix your damaged board by wiring a 7805 voltage regulator and heat sink in place of the blown one, so its worth hanging on to it for a back up. I use such a solution on one of my machines, where the regulator is mounted externally with wires leadin

by jefbed - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: ramps1.4 replacement board - 5 years ago

The question about the MKS should be its own thread... However, The second board will work, but you'll have to get a set of stepper drivers as well, of course. It may be possible to repair the first board by desoldering the burnt screw terminal connector and either soldering in a replacement screw terminal or soldering the heater wires directly to the board. After removing the burnt terminal,

by jefbed - General

Re: Dual hobbed extruder - 5 years ago

A Wade style extruder with a sharp enough hobbed bolt and tight enough idler should sufficiently overcome a 4kg roll's rotation without stressing the stepper. I cut my hobbed bolts wide with a sharp M8 tap and use stiff springs. I'm impressed with the force with which the filament is pulled, and I don't see the need for any more force (one time it was great enough that the extruder broke away f

by jefbed - General

Re: Volumetric Extrusion settings - 5 years ago

If only talking about the extruder, assuming a 0.4mm nozzle, use the formula: v=s*PI*r^2 therefore mm^3 = 5.3*PI*(0.4/2)^2 = 0.666 mm^3 If someone else has better solution, I'm genuinely interested. I usually calculate volumetrics using run speed, so v = lws. For example, if I want to run at 30mm/s with a layer height of 0.3mm and an extrusion width of 0.5mm, I'll set my volumetric speed to 4.5

by jefbed - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Does Makergeeks.com still exist? - 5 years ago

You probably shouldn't have ordered anything from them. They seem to be sleazy and duplicitous by reputation. It seems like they are raising their skill level on that front with their site changes.

by jefbed - Printing

Re: Suggestions for 500x500 build area 3D Printer - 5 years ago

It seems like you already found the most reasonable solution on the market, from Creality. Of course there is the DIY route, but you would need to get a silicone heating pad powered by mains voltage and mount it below an aluminium plate, and clip glass above that. And then build the rest of the printer scaled up to fit it. It all depends on how involved you want to get and how much you are wil

by jefbed - General

Re: RepRap Guru i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 5 years ago

Lowes, glass cutting section, will give you any size glass you want. I acquired glass for 3 of my machines that way very cheaply (2 203mm plates for ~$3.99, since the waste was exactly the size of another plate). Your application will likely only yield one plate, but this is still the cheapest, easiest, and quickest way to acquire glass of your specification.

by jefbed - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My RepRap Guru prusa i3 V2 B only works when plugged into my computer - 6 years ago

It is easy to blow the Arduino regulator when it is using an LCD display--It draws more current from the regulator than it was designed to provide (800mA). If D1 is intact and operational, then you may have to replace the regulator on your Arduino. One solution is to use an external LM7805 regulator with heat sink, wired as follows: MC33269D: 1: gnd/adj, 2: vout, 3: vin LM7805: 1: vin, 2: comm

by jefbed - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Fried RAMPS of i3 clone? - 6 years ago

The 5A SMT fuse on your RAMPS is likely blown if its a 1.5--RAMPS 1.4 should self-reset over time. Check continuity on the fuses. Replace if no continuity. Also replace the stepper driver that caused the problem, of course. The board is likely fine except for that fuse. You can also replace the voltage regulator on the Arduino with an LM7805 wired externally, just be aware that it has a dif

by jefbed - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Folger Tech RepRap Prusa i3 - General Advice - 6 years ago

The hole distance should measure 30mm from center to center. The extruder mounting scheme is a weakness in the design, but I had no problem with the hole distance. However I did have trouble with the bolt length being too short since the stepper motor given was different than that in the build instructions. Folger Tech is pretty good about sending replacement parts, so if your X carriage is no

by jefbed - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Burned RAMPS power connector - 6 years ago

This is a common reason why people use add-on MOSFET boards to redirect current away from the controller board. The controller board only performs the switching of the MOSFET through control wires while the power for the heated bed passes through the MOSFET module. The connectors on such modules are usually better too--gold plated or copper broad terminals, in which you may insert crimped wires

by jefbed - Safety & Best Practices

Re: Anet A8 Homing Issues - 6 years ago

Try posting in "Prusa i3 and variants" in the form of a question please. The Anet A8 is such a variant.

by jefbed - General Mendel Topics