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http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
Re: ABS printing problem - 6 years ago
Try reducing the flow rate to 80%. If it improves, then take it a little lower to 75%, and see if it get better, or stays the same. Temperature might also be an issue. I would say it is a little too cold, but I don't have enough information to make a better educated guess.by jcabrer - Printing
Re: ABS and blower - 6 years ago
Blowers on ABS are detrimental to bed adhesion. With ABS, you don't need active cooling of the part. Bridging can be adjusted by controlling temperature, extruder flow rate, and print speed.by jcabrer - Printing
Re: Layers 2-5 form a gap - 6 years ago
As an initial test, reduce your FlowRate setting to 80%, Adjust the home Z height down until you see a good vertical surface on test prints. I think you are slightly over extruding, and the nozzle is about 0.75mm too high. Measure your skirt area thickness, and see how far off you are from the expected layer height.by jcabrer - Printing
Re: Some Edges of ABS Print Not Sticking - 6 years ago
Using Generic names for Slicer Features. Minimum Layer Time: This setting is in most slicers in some form, and limits print speed so that a single layer cannot print so fast that there is insufficient cool down time before the next layer prints. Print Order: You can control what part of a layer prints first. Outer Perimeter, Inner Perimeters, Infill. Usually, I go with Inner Perimeters/Infill/Oby jcabrer - Printing
Repetier Server 0.60.3 Ignores Lower-Case G-Codes - 9 years ago
Just trying out Repetier Server on Windows for the first time, and I was migrating over my custom G-Codes that I use to turn on the E3D hot end fan, and an LED lamp at print start. I noticed that the commands did not work when sent from the server, but did work when sent from host. Changed all to upper-case characters, and then it worked. Would be nice to Auto-Upcase if this is standard behaviorby jcabrer - Repetier
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Any 3D printer controller will work. If you want to switch, there are the following: RAMPS 1.4, RUMBA, SANGUINOLOLU, MELZI, AZTEEG X3 (favorite), and many others. These all run the same firmware (Marlin, Repetier, Sprinter, etc). Some use screw terminals instead of connectors.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
PID auto tune is a routine that can be called using special g-code commands. Its purpose is to set the values that control heater on/off behavior. You only need it if you find that your temperatures are not steady, over or undershoot, or just want to fiddle with something that aint broke.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
My advice to all of you is to stop using Cura, Marlin, and Pronterface. Sounds like terrible advice, right? Hear me out. The person's who selected this tool chain for you don't provide support for it. Cura is for Ultimaker. Yes, it works, but CuraEngine is truly what you should be using. Marlin is great firmware. One of the best in fact, but there is another choice. Repetier. Repetier Host, Repby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
I think the confusion might be in where each persons printer is homing. The traditional home position moves the extruder all the way to the left, and moves the bed to the rear. If your limit switch is on the right, then the X axis would be reversed.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
My printer is different, but the concept is the same. The gcode below is placed at the start of every print. I use Cura Engine which is included in Repetier Host, so if you are using something else you will need to replace the lines dealing with bed and ext0 temps. G90 G21 G28 {IF_BED}M190 S{BED} {IF_EXT0}M104 T0 S{TEMP0} {IF_EXT0}M109 T0 S{TEMP0} G92 X-30 Y-2.0 Z0.0 E0.0 //make x and y equal toby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Just save yourself the trouble, anget plastic from a reputable source. The diameter of the plastic filament, the moisture content, and the print temperature all can cause problems like this. Check a length ofthe filament for roundness and consistency using a caliper. Two measurements at each point to check roundness, everyfew inches over a couple of feet. If it varies by more than +/-0.1, then iby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
How are you instructed to calibrate the extruder? Im not familiar with how everyone is being guided during the build. Ordinarily, e-steps per millimeter is calculated by manually extruding 50mm of filament, using the +1mm manual extrude. Counting the numer of clicks to get the 50mm to go through. Then you divide expected (50) over actual (button presses counted), and multiply the result by theby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Did you Calibrate your extruder?by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Ultimately, the direction that a motor spins is determined in firmware. The Configure.h file contains the settings for this.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Quoteveaceonee Finally got my printer in today. Was looking over things and noticed the wiring is odd for the steppers. There are 4 pin connectors and 6 pin connectors. The 4 pins are wired black green blue red. However the 6 pins are wired red green blue black. Which is correct? How can I fix it? Thanx. I'd be interested in seeing pictures. THis kind of thing is good to document.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Get one like theseby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
The shiny silver coating has a low emmissivity, so it will not radiate efficiently into the glass. The loss may actually be minute. Any shiny material will radiate less than if it were matte.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
When adding a glass plate, you should avoid placing anything between the bed and the glass. The reason being that the material will swell and change the height of the bed, and cause uneven layers. Applying silicone adhesive to the outside edges keeps the glass in contact with the bed , and is easy to remove later in case of a break. One word of caution: it is possible to delaminate the glass wheby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
For those of you struggling with bed leveling, some advixe. Auto Bed Leveling is not a feature. It is a crutch. Better to address the root cause of the problem, and either replace the bed, or resurface it to be flat. You can do this by adding a sheet of glass of thickness between 3 and 5mm. Use silicone adhesive against the edges, but not under the glass. Once you have a flat surface, do a threeby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Let's address the whole temperature versus power supply thing, just so everyone understands the basics. The first thing to measure is the heat bed and hot end resistance values. These two measurements will tell you how many Amps each will draw from the power supply. This will also give some idea of how much heat you can get, since more amps = more temperature. If resistance is too high, you wonby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
SD card will work, but you have to set up the firmware correctly if you downloaded from a source other than the vendor. Stock marlin is not configured for RAMPS or the LCD/SD.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
If anyone is interested in doing a comparison, here is the original Prusa i3, as offered by Joseph Prusa. It is twice the cost, but support is excellent.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
@IBaz Since you are totally new, I would recommend repetier host, if using Windows or Linux. I can help you set it up offline. Maybe a video would help. In any case, the files you recieved include a chinese version of the PC control software called Cura. Repetier host, and Pronterface all perform same function. PM me if you want to set up a time to get online, and go through it.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Cork, wood, cardboard are all fine, but car sunshield from the dollar store is great. Non of these pose a great fire risk at 110°C. Plummer fiberglass shield cloth for sweating copper pipe also works well.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
The heating up of the bed is dependant on the resistance value. If resistance is too high, it will not be able to reach temperature, due to being outpaced by the rate of cooling. You should need a value between 1.3 and 1.7 Ohms. That will draw between 7 and 9 amps. If you have an aluminum bed, and want to upgrade, I would recommend a silicone heater with integrated thermistor. Make sure it is forby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Centering is something you can adjust in the host software, by editing the START g-code section. I posted my preferred script for this higher up. Essentially, after homing to -25,-55, perform a move to +25, +55 and then set current position to x0 y0 z0 e0by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Let me address a few points, only for those of you with little or no previous experience with hobby 3D printers. This information will help orient you regarding the RepRap-type 3D printers in general, and some of the Migbot choices made by the manufacturer that may or may not be mainstream. THE SOFTWARE PIPELINE This includes Host Software for controlling the printer, Slicer for generating g-codby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Home is not supposed to be zero, so don't go by that. To be HOMED simply means the electronics are aware of the actual position. The question to ask is if by moving to 0,0,0 are you then brought to the front left corner of the glass, or whatever your surface happens to be.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
You sure it's an LED, and not a thermistor? In any case, start by posting the configure.h file from your firmware, if you have it.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Evetanlm is using Repetier HOST, not Repetier firmware. Let's get a little more information before reflashing. Especially when there is a language hurdleby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants