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http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
Re: A practical 10 Cents Ceramic tube hotend - 5 years ago
I haven't posted here in years but since I experimented a lot with my own design I will give you my ten cents. Few years ago I designed a hotend that had a quartz tube surrounded with a ceramic body and a elaborate heater block, the quartz tube was about 27 dollars, the ceramic body was printed by shapeway around 60 dollars and the heater block was machined out of brass and it was around 45 dollby ggherbaz - General
Re: Recommendations for a first build? - 7 years ago
Buying the parts would never be cheaper than a Chinese kit, the less I have expended its around 220 dollars vs 160~180 for a kit, but designing and building your own printer is the way to go, in the process you will learn a lot and been able to customize your printer to your needs is a plus. One advice: don't go too cheap. Get good quality electronics, motors and hotend. I'm not against clones iby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: What printing problem could be this? - 7 years ago
Measure the inner diameter of the tube, if more than 2mm then put a new one, if you use high quality filaments you can even use a 1.8mm tube but it might jam if filament isn't even enough. The only real way to minimize the serpentine effect and reduce irregular pressure is to shortened as much as possible, reduce retraction and use a powerful extruder that have good amount of torque and good grby ggherbaz - Printing
Re: What printing problem could be this? - 7 years ago
It could be several things: Uneven filament diameter. "Wet filament" or trapped air inside the filament, it will pop as it gets extruded, or steam if wet. Extruder idler shaft has some play. If bowden setup, the serpentine effect inside the tube can create irregular pressure at the nozzle. I will test other filament first and see if repeats, if persist then check your extruder setup. Also you cby ggherbaz - Printing
Re: Printing issue: too much plastic? too little? too hot? all of the above? - 7 years ago
Yes, that's the one I mentioned. Sorry that I didn't post it. If that didn't fix your problem then I might start thinking that you might have a loose belt, pulley or the hotend can move.by ggherbaz - Printing
Re: Doenst even know the problem - 7 years ago
Either your ramps board doesn't have D1 installed or your mega board 5 volts regulator is fried. Both are common.by ggherbaz - Printing
Re: Printing issue: too much plastic? too little? too hot? all of the above? - 7 years ago
Ok for a 0.3 nozzle 0.36 should be best, now if your slicer is showing the gap is because you haven't try to change infill to perimeter overlap, you need to increase it to at least 10% I usually set it at 20% but I use 3 perimeters shell so it will not show outside. Let me see if I can find the setting and I will post it.by ggherbaz - Printing
Re: Printing issue: too much plastic? too little? too hot? all of the above? - 7 years ago
You have few ways to fix that problem: 1. Infill to perimeter overlap, you can increase the overlapping percentage in the slicer. 2. Extrusion multiplier, you can increase the extrusion amount in the slicer. 3. Extrusion width, this one is the one that makes a fatter extrusion. 4. Z calibration, your nozzle to bed offset might be still a little off and need more adjustment to get the layers presby ggherbaz - Printing
Re: Heated Build Chamber - Temperature Control - 7 years ago
Mostly I use high power incandescent bulbs (150~200 watts) with that alone I can keep temperatures in the order of 90 to 95 degrees, I do not have any temperature control since it have never gone beyond 95. I insulated all inside walls with a cheap and thin fiberglass insulation. In my current project I'm using a couple of heater cartridges attached to a large aluminum heat sink with an externalby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: Over Extruding ? - 7 years ago
What Supermec said is absolutely correct and I forgot to mentioned in my post, putting the right filament diameter is key to prevent under or over extrusion.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: What the huh? Prusa i3 Pro B GT2560 w/ATMEGA1280 - 7 years ago
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {85.333,85.333,2560,158.8308} // MXL, Z M8=1.25, MK8 Here is where your might fix your problem. First one is X, second is Y, third Z and forth E. Now with a caliper in hand home all your axis and then with the jog functions of your slicer move one at a time each axis 100mm and measure with the caliper the actual value (for the extruder just mark the filamentby ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Over Extruding ? - 7 years ago
Grab a caliper and Mark the filament 10 or 100mm from infeed of extruder, then run a 10 or 100mm extrusion in the slicer. If your extruder doesn't extrude exact amount you will have to calibrate your E steps in the firmware. If the extrusion is the correct amount then reduce your extrusion multiplier in the slicer and do a trial print and keep adjusting until you get a perfect print, each filameby ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa i3 kit coming. Anything I should consider replacing from the get go? - 7 years ago
It all depends on what you are getting, a picture of the whole printer will help to pinpoint crappie parts. But to be honest you will be redoing parts anyway as you learn and figure out the weakest points in your printer, back in October I bought a cheap sunhokey printer for my kids and as of now, the only original parts are the rods, motors and electronics the rest has been replaced.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: What am I doing wrong. - 7 years ago
Something doesn't look right with the temperature, it looks hotter than 189. But need some little more info in order to give you more advice. What's your layer height, printing speed and retraction distance.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: What am I doing wrong. - 7 years ago
Several things, but to list a few: Over extrusion. Probably too hot. Retraction settings too small. Wobbly Z axis. Now can you give me some more info like: Printer style, model, it came assembled or you put it together? Type of filament, temperatures of both hotend and bed, slicer settings including layer height, nozzle size, speed. But most importantly, did you calibrate your printer on all aby ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: What to do! - 7 years ago
I also use glue stick and it's easy to clean. You might be applying too much glue? For ABS you can use "ABS juice" , for nylon I use sanded bakelite without any kind of glue. If you get it to stick it to the bed, simple white paper is good for most materials but then again you will have to glue it and is a pain to remove from prints. If you ever find the best solution let me know.......by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: X and Y axis rotates after hitting endstop. - 7 years ago
Ok so it's moving to do "safe Z homing", so yes again you need to reduce in firmware homing speed.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: X and Y axis rotates after hitting endstop. - 7 years ago
Moves fast to where? To start the print? If so, you can slow down the non printing speed in the slicer.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: Exporting as an STL - 7 years ago
Did you switched between programs when you did the 25 copies? Or used different versions of the program? I have seen that happened when switching between solid works and inventor or when opened old inventor files in new versions. But I really doubt that such small change in polygon count will change the quality of the print.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: Problem with slow printing towards the end - 7 years ago
There are several ways to prevent that from happening, in S3D you can define different processes for different parts of your print so you can change extrusion width and multiplier so little features have better support, you can use a sacrificial piece next to those little features so it have more time to cool down before the next layer it's applied, you can use Z lift so the nozzle doesn't knockby ggherbaz - General
Re: Best Capacitive Proximity Sensor for Glass Sheet on PCB Heater? - 7 years ago
I have been using capacitive sensors in my printers for the last 2 years without any issues, mine are connected to 12 volts power supply and a single lm7805 on the output signal to the board just in case. Yes they might need little adjustment depending on the bed temperature but I already have set the different offsets in my S3D processes.by ggherbaz - General
Re: Firmware Issue? Cannot establish my home position. - 7 years ago
Take one of your Y endstops and use it for the X axis and modify your firmware to match the directions of your axis so when you home your printer each axis moves in the proper direction.by ggherbaz - Printing
Re: nozzle height - mind blown, can you clarify - 7 years ago
No that's not correct, the nozzle will move to first layer height been 0.1, 0.2, 0.3 or whatever layer height you selected in the slicer. Only when homing your printer the nozzle will go to Z0 and that's only if you do G28 X0Y0Z0. With ABL you can do G28 X0Y0 and then G29, the printer will probe on the points selected and then will move to first layer height from slicer. So if you use a 0.1 bladby ggherbaz - Printing
Re: Upgraded to dual extruders - extruder0 works but extruder 1 won't heat up - 7 years ago
Stupid questions but: Did you set the other thermistor in Marlin? Did you changed the slicer settings so it knows your printer have dual extruders? Understand that you won't have a filament sensor for the second extruder, but why you will loose the one for the first extruder and why you will loose the ABL function?by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: Hot end and infill - 7 years ago
Slicer settings like: Filament size Filament type Nozzle size Extrusion multiplier value Layer height Printer hardware and firmware settings like: Type of extruder and steps per mm value Z axis movement: threaded rod, lead screw size and steps per mm value. Type of stepper and drivers. For example a M5 threaded rod with an standard 1.8 deg stepper motor and A4988 driver in theory needs 4000 sby ggherbaz - Printing
Re: Holes at intersection of walls - 7 years ago
Not the easiest way to fix it but if you create 2 models one with outer part and horizontal lines and the other just with the vertical lines put them together in simplify3d and use 2 processes toghet it will be forced to do it complete as you want it. Other option is use infill to make the grid instead of creating it in the cad software.by ggherbaz - Printing
Re: 2 in 1 out - two approches - 7 years ago
Agreed that certain retraction distance is needed to clear the path but if you switch filaments in a single hotend unit you will always going to have about 5 to 10mm of mixed color/material because no matter what you do (retract extremely fast as the Prometheus), melted material will stick to the walls of the nozzle and pipe and will mix with the incoming filament, a sacrificial tower is always nby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: Hot end and infill - 7 years ago
Over extrusion, wrong Z steps? Need more info.by ggherbaz - Printing
Re: 2 in 1 out - two approches - 7 years ago
This is just my personal opinion based on 3 years of printing. I think is best to have the Y in the heater block like in the diamond system and in the Cyclops than in the cold side of the hotend like in the Prometheus, short retraction distances are easier to control an less prone to printing errors. Stringing and blobs are more related to multiple nozzles than single ones due to the fact thatby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Re: Difference in printing - 7 years ago
Lower the temperature to max 195 and try again, also on small objects is best to print slow 40mm/sec max. It might also help to increase the retraction distance, use random starting point and adjust overlap percentage.by ggherbaz - Printing