Do you have: #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 in your configuration.h?by SteveRoy - Reprappers
When you ask repitier or pronterface to extrude 10mm of filament it means 10mm into the extruder. I assume it's a MK8 or 9 style extruder? Sounds like either the motor current needs to be increased or the filament is jamming in the throat because of "heat creep" Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a 40mm fan blowing across the fins. I use MG Chemicals or filaments.ca PLA. Temp at 185c usually, sometimes 190c. With the hackspace i3 I built there have been 2 clogs/jams in about 2 years. With my new build I did have to re-tighten the throat to nozzle as PLA was leaking from it. Seems OK after that. I also clean the slots/grooves in the hobbed bolt on a regular basis as I find the 1.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
I have been using the hexagon hotend on my Prusa i3 builds. Comes in 1.75mm and .4 nozzle In Canada: or: Probably available in many other placesby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Does the board show up as a com port under windows device manager? Is that port the one selected in the Arduino IDE? Is the Arduino IDE the only program accessing the Arduino (Pronterface or Repitier need to be disconected from the Arduino to upload new firmware) Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
You are probably sending 12v back down the USB cable to your laptop USB port. I would bin everything and start fresh with a new Arduino and RAMPs combo - cheap enough off ebay or AliExpress, though I like the StaticBoards RAMPs more than the clones from China. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
As noted in your other thread - replace the MOSFET with a IRLB8743PBF. I always do this on the cheap China RAMPs. I don't even bother to see if the original MOSFET will work. The other option is to use a RAMPs from Static Boards - more $$$ but I have been running one of theirs for 2 years on my printer with no issues. Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} // (mm/sec)by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
What Floyd says - forget about the LCD until you have the printer working properly.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
I use pronterface, but repitier should be the same When you tell X to move 10mm + (or right) it should move right - if not flip the plug around on your RAMPS When you tell Y to move 10mm + (or to the front) the bed should move toward the front - if not flip the plug around on your RAMPS If the X endstop is on the left side it is a MIN endstop, goes on the 1st set of endstop pins on RAMPS boardby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Check your endstop status with an M119 code with repetier. What does a m119 show with no switches closed? close them 1 at a time and check again with an M119 when they are closed Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
From the video I would guess the motor pairs aren't correct. Also what are the stepper voltages set at? Unplug the 12v supply and leave USB power plugged in, measure from ground to the pot on the stepper with your voltmeter on 2V DC scale As mentioned your configuration.h is set for min endstops, so X on the left side and Y at the backby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quoteggherbaz Go to Aliexpress and search for "Prusa i3 extruder" it will show you several alternatives. Most of which you wouldn't want to buy :-)by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I like the Wades style of extruder and the hexagon hotend - though a genuine E3D would be a good choice also Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Wow! That's awesome, great job on the printer, scan and print job.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
I have used 42BYGHW804 NEMA 17's off AliExpress. 10 - pack: 5 - pack: Low current and hi-torque Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Check input volatge to the RAMPs from your power supply with multi-meter Check stepper voltages with 12v off and usb power to the Arduino on, use 2v DC settings, voltage between ground and stepper pot should be .5v to .7v Check endstop status with an M119 command, motors will usually only go one way if they don't know where the end-stop is Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to fix the steps for your X and Y axis in Marlin, look for this line: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,530} 80 is for a 20 tooth pulley, if yours is different use the Prusa calculator:by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have 12v going to the 5A 12v input on the RAMPS? One input is fused by the 11A fuse, the other the 5A fuse The hotend circuit uses the 5A fused inputby SteveRoy - General
For ABS I use Buildtak at 65c with no issues. I also partially enclose the printer using 3 sides of a cardboard box.by SteveRoy - Reprappers
could also be permissions, try sudo chmod 666 /dev/ttyUSB0 or sudo chmod 777 /dev/ttyUSB0 Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Try .5v (half volt)by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
try change this: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec) to this: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 2, 25} // (mm/sec)by SteveRoy - Reprappers
QuoteOverlord_Laharl 1 final question in the i3 rework am i correct in assuming the threaded rods are just for the frame, and dont serve any other purpose. As anvoice mentioned the M5 are for the z-axis. If you are looking for an i3 design that uses 2020 aluminum take a look at the Wilson, I've heard good things about itby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotecozmicray First 3d Printer? What is wrong with a kit? I've helped a few people finish their i3 kits, both FT and ones from China - what's wrong with them are cheap parts, flimsy frames, poor instructions, poor z-axis endstop design, poor quality hot ends, poor quality heat beds, cheap motors, poor designs to tram the bed.......by SteveRoy - Reprappers
Here is the DXF of the Y bed using 4 LM8UU'sby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Before you start a print job do you home the z-axis and test with a piece of paper between the nozzle and heat-bed? Then when you start to print and the printer homes, what happens next? Does it just start higher than it should? By how much? Slicing with Cura the standard start code homes, raises the head, primes the head then lowers back to print. Slicing with Slic3r the standard start code hby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I have some dxf files of the modified braces we used for our rework builds, and also a bed that uses 4 LM8UU's - for laser cutting I'll find them and post them here if you like Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
The rework uses all M10 threaded for the frame. If you get 2x 1 meter lengths of M10 threaded you will have enough for rework with the braces. For M8 smooth rod 2x 370mm for x-axis, 2x 360mm for y-axis (some smooth rod kits off ebay have 2x 350mm), 2x 320mm for z-axis I did an Instructable on scratch building a "vanilla" i3 printer which uses M8 and M10 threaded for the chassis, but has the saby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
You really do need a multi-meter to check the voltage to the RAMPS (or similar) board, check the voltages from the board, set the voltages on the drivers and check things like thermistors, motor wiring pairs and end-stop switches.by SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants