Hello all, I was wondering if there is anyone that has experience implementing delay/timer functions to modify Marlin code, specifically in 'configuration.h"?? I would like to say, after 100000ms after the board being turned on, to change parameters in the Marlin code e.g. stepper motor direction. Unfortunately, when I try to compile marlin with blank void setup (){} and void loop (){} calls tby DennyP - Firmware - Marlin
Hello Geoff, There is actually a hackerspace in Ipswich with fellow 3D Printing enthusiasts that should be able to help you: Otherwise Hackerspace Brisbane will also be of great help to you, there's definitely people with Prusa i3's around when I last visited: Regards, DennyPby DennyP - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
Hello Jay_Z_ I'm a fellow Aussie (Sydney). I do recommend the self built approach of the Prusa i3, which is a tried and true design in itself. The Prusa i3 variant I would recommend (and currently building right now) is the P3Steel: With your background, you might be able to have access to a laser cutter to do the frame for you, otherwise I can forward you details of the laser cutter companyby DennyP - Prusa i3 and variants
Is there a Z axis calibration screw?by DennyP - Australia, Perth RepRap User Group
Hello OddDozen, I can do it for you for the cost of the filament and postage (based in Sydney), PM me if you're keen. Regards, Dennisby DennyP - Australia - for sale
Hello Elliott, I'm happy to do this for you for a generous price. I know the exact trouble finding Reprap parts here in Aus! especially for the more obscure machines. PM me if you like to proceed. Regards, DennyPby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hello cYbja That G1 E-0.60000 F1800.00000 "looks" like it's a retraction code indicated by the minus sign behind 0.6. E signifies that this is command is for the extruder (you have X, Y, Z in addition), while F indicates the feedrate. If my units are correct, based on , this line is retracting 0.6mm of filament at a feedrate of 1800mm/s (this would be exact assuming you've calibrated your steps_by DennyP - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hello again Daggs, Great minds think alike! That's strange, about how all the different software deals with the same .stl, but nothing suprising. I think with open source software, esp two different brands doing the same thing, will do things differently as there isn't really a set standard to do things out there in my opinion. We've both experenced that! I had the same experence with slic3rby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
I'm jelly! where's this in Sydney hahaby DennyP - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
There are probably ones out there using a 3mm thread. You could use a compression spring + washers to stabilise the M3 screw with a washer and a M3 nut or better, a locknut to hold it onto the printed part like shown here: Another idea is to actually cut a hole in the stl between the screwhole in the part and slide an M3 nut that's secure in the part itself to act as a lock. Threadlocker willby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hello Daggs, I've done a search on Thingiverse and found this popular retrofit adjustable z-endstop for Prusa i3: Worth taking a lookby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hello Daggs, I've completed the bushings last night: PM me your postal address and I can send it today, I also had bad gateway messages too recently! Regards, DennyPby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hello Daggs, What is the wattage of your power supply? it could be underpowered. What is the resistance of your heated bed, it might be too high of a resistance. Here are some resistances for reference, if you have a multimeter it would be a worthwhile check: It's strange that an aluminium bed would take that long? Unless the aluminium heated bed in theory would have a higher thermal conductiby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hey Daggs, I was also cut that the Sharks didn't make it, but atleast the Bulldogs didn't go through! (Parra supporter here). Ah never thought you were ignorning my advice, just keen to try to assist you. I know the pains of starting with a open-source printer, especially when there seems to be not many of us in Sydney to refer to. The hotend seems definitely too high above the glass plate ifby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Smartrap alu?by DennyP - CoreXY Machines
Hello Daggs, How's your Prusa build going?by DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hello Daggs, The Rostock utilizes the alternative kinematics called Delta, and it's exactly as you described: dependant vertical axes moving simultaneously together to move the hot-end to a definite 3D location using diagonal rods. it uses some trigonometric calculations to do it. You can drive a delta printer faster more confidently because the hot-end is positioned on a light platform calledby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
p.s Just added the image links on my last post as it was missing.by DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hello Dagg, Yes I do have additional photos showing other angles: 1) Top and bottom plywood bases added: www.dropbox.com 2) Top and bottom bases layed on the side: www.dropbox.com 3) 1st side brace added: www.dropbox.com The side panels are 762mm x 90mm, but this isn't a strict requirement. The dimensions of the base can be found here: ForAfter building the Rostock and Kossel from the groby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hello, I'm here! I'm based in Glenwood. I've done a Rostock build that took me 5 months to gradually build up and absorb all the open-source information out there: was a fun, interesting, sometimes frustrating journey but all rewarding in the end. Here's a picture: Sample cookie cutter print: Prusa i3 variant (Reprap Wilson) parts that I've done for a friend: And now onto my secondby DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Hey bgkdavis , Have you been to HSBNE? (http://hsbne.org/) I haven't been there personally, but it could contain a lot of 3D Printing activity for you Maroons . It looks like a very well presented hackerspace based on the website.by DennyP - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
Hello Andrew, What's the Torsional strength like with this machine? It certainly looks torsionally stronger than the original Rostock because I would think it's a lot harder to twist 20mm square tubes around itself than 8mm rods. Also noticed the MDF backplate, that would add strength too. Also I could print the structural printed parts with a 100% fill to make it as strong as possible. Cheersby DennyP - Delta Machines
Hello Eddie, There are definitely quality variations between manufacturers and suppliers. I haven't had much experience with many different brands, but I have had the best success with Lybina/Plastrude. The owner knows the importance of Polymer quality for 3D printing. You can get Lybina PLA roll from Robodojo near Campbelltown and they might sell ABS too.by DennyP - Australia, Sydney RUG
Which Delta model is this one out of interest?by DennyP - Delta Machines
Certainly keeping a keen eye on your blogby DennyP - Delta Machines
This looks really good, could be my next Delta Build! I'll be watching this blog closely good work. Really like the simplification that the Delta Pi has done and surely you've improved it.by DennyP - Delta Machines
Indeed, from what I read it was based on the Firepick design. What I like about this one is its Reprappy nature of it allby DennyP - Delta Machines
Hello wdragno, Where are you based at?by DennyP - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Hey I saw this on Sydney Morning Herald! Good Work!by DennyP - Australia, Melbourne RUG