Show all posts by user

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago

Easy, plug in the cable and bend the connector pins. Now you can screw the screws.

by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago

QuoteLittleMike Looks like I've run into a roadblock. Apparently Replikeo decided to send me only 1 m3x8 grub screw. At least I think that's all they sent me. There are a total of 2 headless screws in the plastic baggies (that's them, right? Also called 'set screws?') One is tiny and dark and the other is much fatter and about 4x the length of the small one. I'm guessing one is the m3 and the oth

by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: cooling and drifting - 11 years ago

Try measuring the voltage output of the 12V supply when you print with heated bed on. You may observe a huge voltage drop and if that is the case, your power supply is not good enough. Note that you say the 12V rail is rated at 25A. I am not familiar with ATX power supply ratings but this might mean +12V and -12V combined, which makes +12V only 12.5A, probably just barely enough for the heated b

by alvinhochun - General Mendel Topics

Re: cooling and drifting - 11 years ago

550W seems high enough for a pure 12V power supply, providing a total of about 45A. Are you using an ATX power supply? If yes, the power on 12V rail is probably going to be lower than 550W, probably at least less than half (It has -12V which will not be used, and also the unused 5V rails). Can you share the wiring of your setup?

by alvinhochun - General Mendel Topics

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago

The ultimate goal is get it to run smoothly on the z-axis rods so you may still need to adjust it a bit before inserting it into the z-axis rods. Don't waste too much time on this without the z-axis.

by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago

QuoteLittleMikeI'm assembling the x-carriage. That digital caliper I got only goes to 6 inches. What's the best way to measure that I have the motor and idler precisely 362mm apart? Also, it doesn't matter which end I shove in deeper, correct? Um... that sounds wrong. I mean it looks like both parts will accommodate the rods. Does it matter which side has the rods going deeper into it provided it

by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago

I ended up placing a stack of paper under the frame. I guess when I get the printer running I'll print some stands instead.

by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Upcoming Catastrophe, Z-axis nut falling out! - 11 years ago

Quotegforce1 Try mount the x-axis upside down (like it should), then the weight of the x-axis presses on the nut and push it into place. This. The top (currently bottom) side should have a hole just big enough for the threaded rod so that the nut won't pass through and can support the weight of the x-axis assembly.

by alvinhochun - Reprappers

Re: heat sinks too large - 11 years ago

If they short components, you ought to be concerned. At worst it can burn your house down.

by alvinhochun - General Mendel Topics

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago

I received my plexi-frame kit from Replikeo a few days ago, but when I try to connect the y-axis assembly to the frame, the side panel is lifted up a few mm by the threaded rod, which makes the frame not perpendicular to the ground anymore. Did anyone here have the same problem?

by alvinhochun - Prusa i3 and variants