Hey guys, just installed a new SSD and win 7. After reloading Repetier 1.6.0 I am getting no control. Drivers installed, click "Connect" and everything appears to connect but no movement or heating. Changed baud rate to 115200 as in last install but no change. Oddly enough I just tried connecting without printer turned on and connection acted the same. It appears to have connected but it can't beby elwood127 - Repetier
Hey snyper, Your leveling issues are just starting. You may want to see what changes I made to help with this. And you need to add an aluminum plate or glass. Just the raised lettering on the heatbed will be a problem.by elwood127 - Printing
I ran a full AVG scan, nothing showing. Ran Spybot and Regclean. Found 100's of registry errors. This site comes in english now. Saw that Supercar777 has multiple sites associated with it.by elwood127 - General
Hey all, am I the only one that has these pages occasionally show Chinese instead of english? Just noticed that there is "Supercar777" on almost every post.by elwood127 - General
I did, It turns out that the slots are much to small for my knife set. Unfortunately, I can't edit STL's in my older version of Rhino 3d.by elwood127 - Look what I made!
I've been having print failures on high retract prints. Filament stripping. Trying to resolve filament bearing pressure issues. When I print long prints It helps if I turn off retract.by elwood127 - Look what I made!
I use (4) 40 x 40 x 20mm fans on all steppers and motherboard. Everything runs barely warm.by elwood127 - Reprappers
I design a new X carriage. As far as I know it uses a standard J head clamp. If interested in the parts for this go to I have a couple different holders.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Sorry, have been away. I use .26 with a .4 nozzle with retract off.by elwood127 - Look what I made!
Do yourself a favor and read our Digital Dentist's "Son Of Megamax" instructable.by elwood127 - General
If possible, you should consider one Z motor and and belt and pulley setup. Much more repeatable leveling.by elwood127 - Reprappers
I'm using the Prometheus V2 and it has been awesome. It has an adjustable cool zone for speed and or accuracy. One piece stainless nozzle with ptfe liner. I did add a second fan so that one blows through the fins and one sucks. Has never jammed internally with PLA or ABS. Keep in mind also that if your new hotend is at all different in length you may need to print a new Z endstop mount that willby elwood127 - Reprappers
Hey guys, I'm printing a cool knife holder for my son. It's on Thingiverse but the files needed are on an Instructable page here, The parts do not import in a printable orientation so you will have to rotate them first. Also, the "Top" head piece sliced in Slic3r with a huge gap at the forhead. I had to upload it to Makeprintable.com and have it repaired. It had 2600 problems. The repaired fileby elwood127 - Look what I made!
Wow, a lot to take in. Start by verifying the stepper voltage. Fix thermistor mount and verify temps. 180c works great on mine. Make sure you are actually using PLA. You can polish extruder with toothpaste and a .4 drillbit and a dremmil. Good luck.by elwood127 - Printing
I run .68 on my Melzi board and fans on all motors. No problem with heat.by elwood127 - Printing
I looked at that with hopes of eliminating my tensioner issues. Why they don't incorporate a hotend mount astounds me. Some of us don't care for Bowdens. They would sell a ton.by elwood127 - Printing
You will have plenty of tests to get a kit working well but the learning is invaluable. Once you've mastered it you can upgrade. Took me a year to learn the basics.by elwood127 - Reprappers
The problem I had was that after every print I would home everything and the Z motors would always stop at different hieghts. After a few prints the x carriage would be off by more and more. Since switching to one z motor and a belt it can't change, ever. Much simpler leveling process now. One note, my belt has lost tension since installing it and I had to add a tensioner.by elwood127 - Prusa i3 and variants
What board do you have. I know how to on a Melzi board.by elwood127 - Prusa i3 and variants
It's not aluminum but you may find some helpful parts here.by elwood127 - Prusa i3 and variants
You may want to consider switching to one Z motor. Here is how I did it.by elwood127 - Prusa i3 and variants
Great job man. Nice touch with the plastic hardware to keep the mass down.by elwood127 - Look what I made!
Since no one else has said it, nice work man. Judging by your printed parts an upgrade may not be needed. Nice attention to detail.by elwood127 - Look what I made!
Quickparts.com Probably $300.00 each.by elwood127 - Reprappers
.5 is stock. Info on steppers says .7 is good. Mine is .68 and works fine. I just asked for help with filament tension because stepper shaft was visibly flexing under pressure. Mine only a problem under High Retract prints.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Hey all, Eric Sammut suggested I try this 5:1 stepper and 8mm hob for my direct drive I3. What might I expect for settings changes. I assume that 1/5th the amount of filament would be moving. Where would I speed it up? I mentioned my "high retract print" fails (stripping filament) and he thought that these would help eliminate the problem. He is using a Bowden setup but I prefer direct. Any thougby elwood127 - Reprappers
First, use a continuity tester to find the (2) pairs of the motors. Connect them to the board, one pair on first two connectors and the other on the two lower connectors. Check which direction the motor moves. If backwards switch them or go into Repetier "Printer Settings", "Printer" and click "Invert Direction In Controls"by elwood127 - Controllers