Hey KK, where was your config.h file. I have looked everywhere to no avail. Thanks.by elwood127 - Controllers
One thing learned, many more to come. Fun!by elwood127 - Printing
Again, we need software that detects the stoppage, sounds an alarm, pauses the print, moves head to x home and waits for repair and then proceeds printing.by elwood127 - General
You may want to try mine. For 8 or 10mm x rods. Been working pretty well.by elwood127 - General
You may want to check your stepper voltages.by elwood127 - Printing
No filament autofeed on that printer. Just stick it in.by elwood127 - Printing
Thanks for the thoughts guys. The main problem I'm seeing is that the outer motor bearing allows way to much movement when pressure is applied. I was wanting to find a motor that has very high tolerances in this respect. Maybe with roller bearings. Thanks again.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Common problems? heatbed won't heat, extruder won't heat, leveling, parts won't stick, layer height, crappy top layer, etc. Read, read and then read some more of this pages topics. Everything has been asked and answered. Good luck and have fun.by elwood127 - Reprappers
You will probably want to clamp that to a table eventually. It will help eliminate wobble. Have fun, it won't be long.by elwood127 - Reprappers
I reprinted my tensioner arm and after tightening I was getting some stepper clicking. I noticed that the shaft was moving while applying pressure to the hob. I think it's time for a better motor. Anyone know of a more solidly built Nema 17 motor. Price not important.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Thanks DD. I'm using a tensioning arm that I printed. It flexes a bit. I may have to replace the arm with an aluminum one.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Hey all, I find that finding the proper filament feed tensions can be problematic depending on whether there is a a lot of retract in the print. To much pressure and stripping occurs. I'm running 2mm @ 40mm/sec retract. I was wondering if anyone has tested hob gears and bearings with a rubber coating instead of teeth. This should lessen the deformation of the filament. What do you brainiacs thinkby elwood127 - Reprappers
I imagine the matched rods are the way to go.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Thought some of you may be interested in an alternative to the typical cheap bearings out there.by elwood127 - Reprappers
You may want to check your "Non Printing Move" speed in your slicer program. It should only take a few seconds to home and start.by elwood127 - Printing
Basics first. Measure all four corners of your bed and adjust to the exact same width between the glass and the mounting plate. Let's say it is 1/2'. Now, center the plate below the nozzle and Z home. Move the nozzle to the middle (out of the way) and measure the distance between the upper x rod and the glass at the left and right. If it's uneven there is a problem. On my I3 I eliminated the righby elwood127 - Prusa i3 and variants
Agreed, 180c works for me. Also, 15mm/sec may be to slow allowing heat creep. Bump it up to 50 and see what happens.by elwood127 - Printing
I use 40x40x20mm fans. Plenty of cooling.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Try Stock Drive Products for belts.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Speed is way to high. Try 50mm/sec or less. Also, it looks like your first layer is to high. Assuming you have a .4 nozzle, try .2 first layer height. Use a piece of printer paper as a gauge to set Z height after homing Z. Check gap at all four corners. If PLA, then set extruder temp to 180c and bed temp to 70c. If printing on blue tape you can lower that temp. You may want to try Slic3r. It's aby elwood127 - Printing
Read this for a start.by elwood127 - General
I have an acrylic model and it was a long journey to get it to perform well. Stiffening things was the hardest part. Creating feet that screwed down to a table proved to remove most of the chassis flex. Since then I have replaced every part except the chassis with new designs and it works pretty darn good. Knowing what I know now I would spend double the money to get something with a metal chassiby elwood127 - Reprappers
Search your local tool shop for "Easy Outs". they are spiral shanks that allow you to grab the hole of the setscrew. They come in sets with many sizes.by elwood127 - Reprappers
To add to GG's reply, print a flat surface and check for ridges at the edges of each row. If there are then you may want to reduce your "Extrusion Multiplier" from say 1 to .98 and so on. Try for a smooth surface with no ooze at the edges.by elwood127 - Printing
Keep in mind that the narrower the rail the more it can flex. In the X carriage anyway.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Wow DD. I need to get off my ass and get my tooling plate cut to size. That's an amazing difference. Thanks for the info.by elwood127 - Look what I made!
Just a note, I'm using a 35 amp PS with an SSR and have bumped up the output from 12 volt ti 14.5 volt. After loosing 1.2 volts to the SSR I'm left with 13.3 volts to the heater. That and placing a piece of cork between the lower and upper plates and some peel and stick window insulation around the edges (and in between the plates) my temps went from struggling to reach 110c to 110c in 15 minutesby elwood127 - Printing
I agree with GG. I run at 180c and 70c on the bed with my Prometheus V2. I also use a 40 x 40 x 20mm fan with a printed nozzle that seams to be enough airflow for pla cooling. My retraction is set to 2mm @40mm/sec.by elwood127 - Printing
I have to disagree about the dual Z motors being an advantage. Until I converted to one I had nothing but problems keeping my X carriage even from left to right. Out of level by as much as .060 inches. Sending Z home and then checking parallel to the bed produced a different measurement every time. A single Z motor and a belt and pulley system has eliminated this issue.by elwood127 - Printing
In the words of Professor Farnsworth, Wahhh?by elwood127 - Printing