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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 6 years ago

This may have already all been covered, but I wanted to get some of my preliminary feedback about the printer. My little brother decided he wanted to get int 3d printing, I'm an engineer working on a large, and honestly totally ridiculous delta, but figured it's got enough issues, a kit printer might help me get parts made for it rather than having to send out to shapeways. So I ordered 2, and

by corry - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Anchor Killing? - 6 years ago

Just for future reference in case anyone else sees this, no it was actually nothing. Some command somewhere seems to do a retract. Must be a side effect, but I do not get an anchor, or really any movement of the filament at the start of the print. So I haven't a clue what's going on here, but I don't really need to since it works. Lesson learned, run the code before trying to kill something.

by corry - Skeinforge

Re: High temp sealant review - 6 years ago

Thanks! I'll have to look into that. Is it really pearlite? I've got to research this....Perlite is useful for a lot of other things as well! How about disassembly? Does it come off the threads easily once cured? I'm not happy with the shelf life of the 770-L, but $50 or so a year for getting nice, easy to use high temp sealant, isn't a bank account killer, so its definitely usable, and

by corry - General

Re: Graphite Foil - 6 years ago

Well, I gave up trying to source it from China. Too much drama there + a lack of interest. While looking for something completely different, however, I found some not quite as conductive, but still conductive as hell (240 W/mk XY, anisotropicly in the Z direction is 5 W/mk) on mouser, and its expensive for foil, but not that expensive. $17 for an 18x24 sheet. Smaller sheets are likely avail

by corry - General

High temp sealant review - 6 years ago

Figured I'd share my experience since it was great! Product: Deacon Industries 770-L high temp sealant Background: eventually I want to print peek, ultem, and maybe eventually get crazy and try polyimide and other imides. Yes, all high temp. Ultra RTV only goes up to something like 250C. I can't remember exactly, but iirc it wasn't even over 9000, err 300. Not even good for some polycarbon

by corry - General

RADDS Analog Inputs - 6 years ago

Would be easy to answer with the circuit board files..... Anyhow, are the analog pins other than the single ADC pin on the radds used anywhere? Looking on the top and bottom of the board I'd say no, but I'm not sure if there are more than 2 layers on the board. I'm pretty sure I can just solder to the pins and be ok. Reason: I'm probably going to switch to a thermocouple for temp readings on

by corry - Controllers

Re: Anchor Killing? - 6 years ago

ok, so I decided to start disabling modules, and since I couldn't disable dimensions, look at its settings more closely. I did set a retract distance of 5, and an extra start of .1. That number needs calibration...but I have a 1m Bowden tube (only slight overkill for the printer length, and I have noticed some hysteresis...) Apparently this isn't used with a G1, its supposed to be used with ex

by corry - Skeinforge

Re: Anchor Killing? - 6 years ago

First 20 lines. Ill add some annotations though.... ;This is my start.gcode file.... G21 ;Set units to mm G28 ;Go Home M140 S70 ;Heat the bed to 70 fast M190 ;wait for bed temp to hit specified value M106 S64 ;enable the cooling fan. I don't have it yet as I'm working on printing a mount/shroud so I haven't played with this, but it was in an example so I left it. G92 ;Reset the extruder posit

by corry - Skeinforge

Re: Anchor Killing? - 6 years ago

The anchor was/is a blob of plastic laid down to help it stick. If you really want all of it I'll post it when I get to my computer. It's not a specific code though, as I said in my post, the code in question is the very first extruder command is g1 e5.1. This follows a move to the beginning of the skirt. The rest of the skirt includes g1 with x, y, z, and more reasonable e commands increment

by corry - Skeinforge

Re: Anchor Killing? - 6 years ago

Just killing the anchor gcode. Can't find a setting, my start and end files were empty. Just want the code not showing up. I could just remove my g92 from my bow created start file, run the extruder to 5.1, kill the code manually, and all would be well, but that's pretty ridiculous just to get rid of the anchor code g1 e5.1. Literally just move absolute extruder only 5.1mm (sf50 so it's 5.1mm

by corry - Skeinforge

Anchor Killing? - 6 years ago

Really annoyed by this as I've been searching for 3 hours now. Everyone seems to say its just modify start.gcode, well, I did that, it didn't have one, so I made one. Now I get my start code and that stupid G1 E5.1 line! Ugh! I tried disabling skirt and raft, modifying bottom, nothing removes it so I cant even figure out which plugin is adding it. I'm about to tear into the code. I've not n

by corry - Skeinforge

Re: Graphite Foil - 7 years ago

Well, I may have been premature, turns out it's some of the more "special" graphite foils with those extreme properties (Ones made by sintering polyimide). May actually be a good thing though since it looks like they may be cheaper, they're certainly more flexible (making shipping much less hazardous). Only real issue is the availability. Can't just pick up a roll on an online marketplace. I

by corry - General

Graphite Foil - 7 years ago

Its a really interesting material.....I'm considering ordering a roll (since I can't find anyone selling big enough sheets at less than a 1000% markup....no exaggeration either unfortunately) Interesting property-Highly anisotropic thermal and electrical conductivity. That is, its extremely conductive (thermally on the order of up to 1500 w/(m k), along the plane of the foil, but not so great..

by corry - General

Re: Heated Bed Design Basic Questions not answered on the wiki (that I could see) - 7 years ago

Thanks guys, I ended up going with the Kapton one just based on availability from Omega. I replaced the thermistor in the hot end (e3d) with a screw in type, so I had an extra one to use anyhow. I figure I'll use that to protect the heater itself, as most designs use, but since I'm going for way over complicated, I think I'm going to grab an IR thermometer. I'll see if I can get an FOV and mou

by corry - General

Heated Bed Design Basic Questions not answered on the wiki (that I could see) - 7 years ago

Kapton vs Silicone: Pros/Cons? Wiki pretty much just has a picture of the kapton heater and says its similar to silicone.... Obviously kapton is thinner, and claimed to have a higher tensile strength, chemical resistance, etc....lots of things that probably don't matter much in 3d printing. Silicone is cheaper, and has slightly higher thermal operating range, but that second part like the chemi

by corry - General