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http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
Re: Storing Filament in Freezing Temperatures - 10 years ago
I live in Florida so I haven't had much experience with temperatures below 0c. That being said take some samples for each filament and put them in your freezer. Thaw and print various objects and see how it goes.by gmckee - General
Re: Power Supply Amperage requirements with Duet - 10 years ago
E3d heater for the lite 6 is 30w heater. 2.5 amps Motors 1x.8, 3x.5=2.3 amps Other electronic needs= 1 amp 6 amp 12v supply would probably be sufficent.by gmckee - General
Re: Melamine frames. - 10 years ago
I have a melamine frame from eBay on my i3 and it works fine. I live in Florida about 20 miles from the coast where humidity is high most of the time and haven't noticed any warping. The frame is very easy to modify to mount things to. I have my ramps, Lcd, and powers up ply mounted on mine. I got mine from bluskreen or something like that.by gmckee - General
Re: Wirring info and Supply - 10 years ago
From the power supply to controller if you have a heated bed go with 16 or 18 gauge solid core. 18 gauge stranded got to hot for me. Ends tips don't need to be thick, motors about the same?by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
Re: A Whole Suite of Problems - 10 years ago
The plastic leakage on the nozzle is probably because the heat break and nozzle are tightened against each other. Screw the nozzle in, then unscrew to a quarter turn. Thread the heater block onto the heat break. Tighten everything down at temperature. As for the blobs a whole suite of things could be causing that. I had the same issue with my Folger tech hotend and a new E3D fixes it.by gmckee - Reprappers
Re: A Whole Suite of Problems - 10 years ago
First things first pictures are worth thousand words add a couple to your post to help us understand you are exact issue. You should be hot tightening everything at print temperature to prevent leakage. PLA has to have a very sharp transition between the cold and hotend. If the plastic is softening prematurely which sounds like what your issue is try a more powerful fan cooling the heatsink.by gmckee - Reprappers
Re: Accuracy issues - 10 years ago
It looks like you have major over extrusion issues. Luckily it's not that hard to try and fix! Step 1: Calibrate extruder with Thomas Sanladerer's guide. Google Tom's extruder calibration. Watch some of his other videos while you're there. Step 2: Mesaure your extrusion width. Heat your nozzle up, extrude filament through nozzle, measure in multiple places, put value into the slicer. My nozzleby gmckee - Reprappers
Re: GT2560 Help and other questions - 10 years ago
For the homing switches positions you described you would plug them into the minimum positions. In firmware set the home positions to -1. For your fan neither are adjusted by pmw. You should keep your electronics and hotend heatsink fans on at all times. You can set up a pmw fan for a print cooling fan to fight delamination. If the plate is super flat aluminum than yes you could. However, I woby gmckee - General
Re: Fireproof enclosure - 10 years ago
Also the water inherently contained within concrete could boil with enough heat causing pressure to build and the concrete to explode (not kidding, small hole in the garage floor. If you want a cast stone type enclosure use plaster of Paris and water. See homemade can forges.by gmckee - General
Re: Prusa i3 prints only decent when very slow - 10 years ago
Also check that your extrusions are the actual nozzle size. Extrude some plastic and see that actual width. My E3D nozzle was said to be .4mm but was actually extruding .5mm. That's a 25%increase in size causing over extrusions and insufficient movement. Also see Tom's Guide on extruder calibration.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
E3d lite6 not secure. - 10 years ago
I purchased a E3d lite6 and it seems to be rocking back and forth in my wades extruder mount. Currently the hotend is inside of the mount secured by traditional screws. I bored out a countersink for the collet to fit but the hotel still can move a couple of degrees. Has anyone experienced this and has a fix?by gmckee - General
Re: Print goes to shit midway - 10 years ago
Have you tried a different slicer? Take a look at the print when it goes amiss. Do you see and frame issues?by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa i3 prints only decent when very slow - 10 years ago
I have printed with my homemade prusa i3 with a wades and used to have a j head. I was able to get 80mm/so with that setup. Most likely somewhere in the motion platform, belts, frame, bolts, etc. Check that everything is tight and that you have slower accelerations and jerk. See Thomas sanladerer guides on tuning speed.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Help deciding on a build - 10 years ago
I went the self source route when I built my printer and ended up working out for the most part OK. By not buying a kit you lose the ability of good customer service that is accompanied with more expensive non-ebay kits. From someone who had no experience with 3d printers using or building them, service can be a valuable thing. From my build standpoint here are a couple of things I would make suby gmckee - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 current for 2 heated bed - 10 years ago
Make sure to get a dc version with heatsink.by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
Re: "MAXTEMP triggered" when heating above 40°C - 10 years ago
Also when the thermistor is not connected I get a minted error. It sounds like you have a circuit with no resistance whatsoever. Pick up another thermistor.by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
Re: "MAXTEMP triggered" when heating above 40°C - 10 years ago
Thermistors work by varying resistance with temperature. What sounds like is happening is that the thermistor is broken or incorrectly connected. Go ahead and buy a new thermistor for a couple of dollars and swap it out. Oh and when a "Fatal" error like thermal runaway or maxtemp is triggered the printer is put in a suspended state and Octoprint no longer will receive updates.by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
Cooling the whole print vs extruded plastic with PLA - 10 years ago
Over the past few months I have been cooling my prints with a 80mm fan to avoid delamination. I am about to get my E3d Lite6 with its clip on cooling fan which means I will have the fan mount on my Wades Extruder open for a different fan arrangement. That being said should I print a ducted fan that blows exclusively on the molten plastic or continue using my 80mm on the whole print. Would the ducby gmckee - Printing
Re: FIXED - DRV8825 Driver settings - 10 years ago
Just keep your post up. Someone may stumble along it one day and your post will help them fix the same problem!by gmckee - General
Re: Ramps 1.4 current for 2 heated bed - 10 years ago
If you want to run two standard pcb heated beds you could either run them using a DC ssr triggered by the heated bed output. Your better option would be to get a 120v silicone heater. You can get them custom made on allies press for not to much money and have the bed heat up quicker.by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Authentic E3DLite6 or Knock off E3DV6? - 10 years ago
I bought the lite from a distributor as named on E3d'so website. I should get it in a few days.by gmckee - General
Re: Authentic E3DLite6 or Knock off E3DV6? - 10 years ago
I went ahead and bought the lite6 from a US distributer of the lite6. I figured I would be better getting the real deal and hopefully avoid the headache.by gmckee - General
Re: Authentic E3DLite6 or Knock off E3DV6? - 10 years ago
I can get the lite6 from the makerfarm website, a e3d distributor, for $36 shipped. The knock off v6 are about $15 through Amazon. I live in the USA.by gmckee - General
Authentic E3DLite6 or Knock off E3DV6? - 10 years ago
After my last hotend literally fell apart during a print I am in the market for a new hotend. Right now I am looking at a authentic E3DLite6 or a knockoff V6 with a PTFE tube instead of all metal. I am only printing in PLA and may move to ABS when I need to. The knock offs are half the price of the lite 6 but does that mean twice the trouble? Should I go with the real deal from the start or giveby gmckee - General
Re: New extruder/hot end - 10 years ago
PLA would work fine enough is you keep the cold end cold so it doesn't soften the plastic. Go ahead and print an extra set just in case you have a meltdown. You probably could get the heatsink to fit the existing hotend but you will probably ending up scraping that as well. Look for a complete hotend with heatsink from the start.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: New extruder/hot end - 10 years ago
1) It's a cheap Chinese extruder, hotend, fan and motor. Most likely the extender's fault. However, if the rest of your printer has just the same amount of issues, it could be the operator. 2) It depends what kind of printer you have. If it uses the standard X carriage than a Wade's Extruder will probably be your best bet. Hobbed bolt, some hardware, bearings, springs, and the printed parts andby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Major Temp drop while printing - 10 years ago
I have rebuilt the hotend twice to see if that was the problem. If i leave the hotend idle it stays at the temperature it is set to for hours. I have run PID autotune.by gmckee - General
Major Temp drop while printing - 10 years ago
On my Prusa i3 my temperature drops from 195c to in its most significant drop of 170c. I have attached a picture of my temperature time graph. What could cause this significant of a drop? Often thermal runaway is tripped as it takes to long to get temperature back up. I am using 1.75mm white hatch box pla through a knock-off j head. 40w heater and standard thermistor. Using Cura for slicing. Blby gmckee - General
Re: Hello a little heatbed/Y-Carriage issue. - 10 years ago
I would take a look at the pictorial print troubleshoot guidehere. It looks like you have a bit of axis drift and temperature issues. Make sure your belts are tight and try the print cooler and incrementally up the temprature. Just remember not to get impatient. It takes time to get everything perfect.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants