It could be faulty, your power supply or the board. The 24.5v you measured was that under load? (Heat bed heating up.) 15 amps is what I've got for a 24v power supply, I'm running it at 26V out (load factor). Are you running an ac-dc relay on a RAMPS 1.4? What electronics? What wiring diagram can you put up to help troubleshoot this problem. I have mine wired up similar to this picture howeby Viper97 - Reprappers
Your heated bed is like mine. As your picture indicates the first single soldering pad is labeled on mine as #1 (in your picture, the pad on the right side). The one closest to it is labeled #2 and the furthest pad from #1 is labeled #3. So #1 is a single pad, and pads two and three are grouped together. To wire 24V to them you would attach a +24v to pin #2 and the -24v to pin #3. Hope thisby Viper97 - Reprappers
Cool!by Viper97 - General
I picked my frame up on eBay... from Orballo I believe. Ordered it and seven days later it hit the west coast from Spain. Overall the quality is quite excellent. I filed a few bits of slag from the laser off and sanded it a bit with some 150 grit. Painted it up in metallic red and blue paint (Going for the Optimus Prime Bot look ). I'll be picking up the screws today and start shooting a viby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
It was definitely a hiccup in Slicer... I ran it through CURA and boom... perfect. Thanks folks! I'm still on the learning curve. Recaled the X and Y axis today and got the cube to 20.04 and 20.06 according to my cheapie caliper... Z is off a bit (20.65) since I made a few improvements but I made the adjustments and just need to test it out after work. I'm not looking for perfect just damn cloby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Sure, release a newer version after I get V2.01 all painted up!by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Perhaps next time, heat the head up to a good temp... say 230C and then with two wrenches (one on the block and one on the tip) snug them up together as best as you can. Then let it cool. Then load the PLA and test. This is the instructions that came with my E3D V6 Lite and it seemed to work for me.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
It sounds like the grooves in the frame are a bit off or not fully seated. Maybe run a rat tailed file through the slot where the rods fit and see if that helps?by Viper97 - Reprappers
QuoteAquaticsLive Make sure the Solid state relay is a DC/DC one and a name brand one. The cheap ones on Amazon and ebay tend to be DC/AC with a new label. You can tell they are fake when they get hot, allot of them will be sold with a big heat sink. I have a Crydom D06D60 LINK just gets slightly warm with a my 360 Watt silicone heater. I tried the cheap FOTEK SSR ESSR-DD100A and it got superby Viper97 - Reprappers
Is there a source for the wiring diagram for a 24V Power Supply and an SSR that can be referenced? Perhaps a complete one?by Viper97 - Reprappers
No lying here it was the first print ever. I spent some time calibrating the thing, reworking and rethinking everything. Finally pulled the trigger to print the cube. I was expecting a mess frankly and was floored when it was pretty good! **Edit** Attached a picture of the cube.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's my first print. Not to bad for the very first go. This is from my self sourced Prusa I3 Rework. Just a few problems, it's a bit shorter than 20mm (by 1.2mm I need to recalibrate that factor) and for some reason the corner didn't fill in. I suspect Slicer went nuts. So I'm looking a CURA while playing with Slicer settings. Overall I have to say that this print came out well and I oweby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
My Y-Axis is exhibiting that behavior on my new build. X and Z are fine. (As of this morning anyway!) My thoughts on troubleshooting this is to back the stepper current down (counter clockwise on the stepper driver board A4988). Then I'll adjust the current upwards (clockwise) while testing. Eventually I hope to have it running with enough current. If that doesn't work I'm swapping out the dby Viper97 - Reprappers
Just remember, sometimes modular is better, that way you can just have a spare stepper controller hanging around and not have to buy an entirely new board because it's an all-in-one solution.by Viper97 - Controllers
I've ordered a ton of parts from SidewinderInc... so far I haven't been let down and I suspect that will be your case also. I'm willing to bed the filament is in the box with the printer hence why one tracking number.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Perfect! Onward with the hack. Thanks everyone for your contributions.by Viper97 - RAMPS Electronics
Update, ordered the MOSFET's, removed the old ones. Took me about 5 minutes with the 'rap on desk' method. Meanwhile, I was reading more on this subject and I ran across a Pins config for Marlin that Andrew had started and wondered if this was needed and if I needed to modify anything in the software according to the thread I had read, (aside from the Marlin for Due firmware)?by Viper97 - RAMPS Electronics
As a side note, I'm thinking it's easier to replace all 3 MOSFETs at once with either the IRLB8743 or the IRLB3034? My Due is here and will be going into the second iteration (rebuild) of my I3. I'm in no rush so I'm hanging out here reading and gathering materials to make it happen.by Viper97 - RAMPS Electronics
Sometimes I'm lazy and just heat the hole and then gently rap it on a desk to knock the solder off. Been doing that for 40 years and so far, it's worked flawlessly and I haven't broken anything yet. (Please note the operative word "yet".)by Viper97 - RAMPS Electronics
I had the same problem then I realized the power supply I just purchased was dead. So it hung up compiling. Checked the compiling on another printer and viola! It worked fine. Ordered a new power supply.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Good deal! Here's mine, a bit away from calibration just yet but at least it's starting to look right.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I do believe that the thermistor as well as the heater element are not polarity specific.by Viper97 - General
At least you worked it out! Nice job.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I wouldn't think they were blown. The odds are against it. There are two coils and you can test them by measuring the ohms. If it's 0 or there about then you have a match, if it's infinite then try another wire. Once you have a pair, then you need to figure out which is + and which is - then you can connect them to the ramp and see if it moves the axis. If it's opposite of what you expected rby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I just downloaded the generic stuff, straight off the wiki. In my mind, it's better to start from scratch so I can really learn what the settings are and what they mean and do. That's just me though.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay I figured out the Z stop holder (plate style), I changed the bolts to M3X8mm and I've got clearance from the frame. I then used M3X16mm screws to fasten it to the motor.by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I tore my machine down... changed out some pieces and I'm putting it back together this week. I'll see if I can get it together and grab a shot. I know this had me scratching my head for a bit. I'm assuming it's the Z axis that has you flustered?by Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants
I had the same problem with the end stops, I just slowly bent them up to 90 degrees. Seemed to work. As far as a work around goes, my order of the plastic parts came with that connector as well as the rod connector for the end stops. Picture a plastic wire clamp that you screw into a frame to manage wiring. I'll be using that for the X axis as it seems to be the solution. That other pieceby Viper97 - Prusa i3 and variants