Quotejcabrer The following components will not fry your board if wired incorrectly, but will produce malfunctions. ..... Connecting power to any component reversed WILL DEFINATELY fry something. Red is Positive, Black is Negative. Yellow is Positive. AC and DC ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. Connecting AC to anything other than L N G on the power supply will fry stuff, and probably cause a small fire.by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetommy-b-10 Yup manage to work out that my psu wasn't grounded correctly, causing the voltage to be seen as wrong by the mega. Solution was to manually connect a cable between V- and ground on the psu. How did you figure out that it wasn't grounded correctly? So you put a wire between an open slot V- and the ground or did you wire it to the V- slot that was going to the MEGA? Although probby gatorNic - RAMPS Electronics
Can any of you snap a closer/better photo of the spot I circled? Its location 'L3'. Its the part that burnt out and if I identify it might be able to solder on a new one. long shot, but parts of the board are still working since when I hook up power I am still getting the lcd working which is showing the temps. Thanksby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting I think I just had the same problem as this, although I haven't gone an purchased another board yet. Everything was fine until I plugged in both the power AND the usb, then pop hiss! Did you figure out the issue OP? Quoteenif The USB cable getting hot might also be due to some ground loop. So make sure that there is no significant voltage difference between the ground of your PS anby gatorNic - RAMPS Electronics
uggh, pissed. Just fried the board. 1.Quadruple checked all the wiring before hand, tested the voltages of the power supply with a multimeter, all good. 2.Plugged in just the USB, lights come on, lcd on, recognized by my PC, mattercontrol found printer, all good 3. Stopped, unplugged USB. Plugged in just power cable. Power light comes on, extruder fan comes on, looking good. 4. Next plugby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey do you guys know, do you no longer need the Z limit switch installed in step 6 of the manual if you have the auto leveling sensor? If I am reading this right it seems like you install the plug for the autoleveling (proximity) sensor into the port that would be normally for z limit switch. I see no other port to have bothby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteInvictus The proximity sensor is an inductive sensor that senses the presence of the aluminum plate. The sensor included has a sensing distance of 2mm, so anything non-conductive needs to be less than that or the sensor will crash into it. You could try 1/16" glass, get a sensor with a longer range, or maybe glue a piece of metal to the corner . small squares of aluminum foil on the cornersby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejcabrer If you want to try glass, get Borosilicate glass 6mm thick. Thinner sheets are not great at providing stable temperature. Also, avoid using clips to hold the glass down. Use silicone adhesive, but only on the edges, not under the glass. I guess unfortunately some were saying early in the thread that there may then be a sensor problem, due to the sensor not sensing the glass and thby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
So are you guys just using the aluminum plate the printer comes with and some painters tape or have any of you picked up a sheet of glass?by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteInvictus QuoteZurking My Migbot has just arrived and after unpacking it ready to be built into an epic machine, I've discovered there is no CD in the box, which after reading online; includes the manual/software/drivers.. basically the essential stuff. (Emailed both companies.. waiting for reply) There's a .rar on the SD card. It took me a long time to find too. Unfortunately mine was corruby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants