> BTW, this thread is dying. Dying after 174 pages doesn't seem so bad. This must be one of the longest threads on the forum, and it's been amazingly helpful and constructive throughout. I can't speak for anyone else, but for me the FT 2020 was a stepping stone. I learned a ton about building, using and modifying 3D printers from it, and then eventually moved on to a new one (Eclips3D). Theby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I agree on 1m being rather long, though if the cable folds over neatly, it should be sufficient. I'd also like to see a way of joining two cables at right angles. I am imagining it in a CoreXY design, where you would have one cable like this running along the Y axis from the controller to where the X axis is attached, and another along the X axis to the print head.by animoose - General
This is really nice. I would definitely be interested.by animoose - General
Quoteboelle i'm looking to get one of these with it being from china, are there any pitfalls? I never got mine to communicate with Windows reliably. I had no useful support from the vendor. If you don't need dual extruders and are willing to pay more (though still less than a real smoothieboard), consider the azteeg x5 instead. They are based in the USA and communication with them is a littleby animoose - Controllers
@iamquestar I can do a fairly close comparison of using smoothieware, as I initially set up the Eclips3D with a RAMPS board. I later changed it to an Azteeg X5 V3 with 1/32 steppers. It definitely is much smoother and quieter, and it is more accurate on sharp corners. Some of this is due to the 1/32 rather than 1/16 steppers, and some may be due to the acceleration planning in Smoothieware. I haby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepizzachef Quoteanimoose I moved on from the Folger to an Eclips3D CoreXY. It's better and faster, but it still makes me aware of what a good printer the Folger 2020 is. The key, as with the Eclips3D, is a really rigid frame - get that right and many other things become easier. You're only encouraging me more! But good to know the Folger 2020 has a good standing, I need it to make all my newby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepizzachef Quoteiamquestar OK, so this has been a long-time promised and an long-time coming. Here's an overview of my most recent work/changes to the printer... Great work! I like the motor/extruder mount. The stock cantilevered motor setup always bothered me, having it over the x-rail seems more balanced. FYI, your amazon link to the sensor goes to the RaspPi kit instead. Funny, my longeby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar QuoteUltiFix Im thinking about doing this, would it work ok with the cura slicer? (new version) I have the money for a Pi 3 but definetly not for the Simplify3D Octoprint will work with any slicer, you'll just need to upload the gcode generated (very easy: web interface). Further, Octoprint actually embeds Cura (I'm not sure of the version, I haven't played with this yet) and yby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
The Azteeg X5 is 100x56 (http://files.panucatt.com/datasheets/x5mini_wiring_v2.pdf - the V3 board may be slightly larger, due to the Ethernet connector). I can't find the dimensions for RAMPS, but the Arduino Mega 2560 board looks like 102x53. So you might get away with it.by animoose - General
QuoteWilberMaker What is the best place to buy filament? Both ABS and PLA. Been using the 5$ filament without problems. But they dont have ABS I think you just have to try a few and see what you like. I've used justpla bought off amazon and liked it, and I'm currently using hatchbox PLA which I like, also from amazon. I tried meltink PLA and PLA/PHA and found it was way too soft to work well. Thby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemrw0609 I could use some help with my printer. Everything is all set up and ready to print, except my extruder motor is turning the wrong way. Instead of feeding the filament into the extruder, it is pushing it back out. Is there any way for me to reverse the direction of the motor? (maybe a command or setting in Repetier?) You can simply reverse the connector on the RAMPS board.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I had what might be the same problem (version 1.3). In my case the USB would lose the connection with Repetier Host, and also when using PuTTY to interact with the Smoothieware command line, and usually a short while later I would get an error from Windows, and if I looked in the device manager, the USB device (not the COM port) would be marked with a "!" for a while and then disappear from the lby animoose - Controllers
I use welding wire or a welding tip cleaner like these (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/welding-tip-cleaner). But that's just because a friend gave me some of these.by animoose - General
That looks good and very neat. Your description of kiln paper sounds very like the ceramic tape that I bought with a soft and slightly woollen feel to it. I fitted some at the weekend and it has helped keep the temperature stable, particularly when the cooling fan is running at full speed (mostly just for bridging).by animoose - General
Ceramic tape might be another option: . I have some but have not tried it yet.by animoose - General
This is a question from idle curiosity: I can see why you would need to use a higher bed temperature with PrintBite (it's a bit more insulation between the heater and the surface), but why does the hot end need to be hotter as well? Shouldn't that just affect the viscosity of the extruded plastic? Disclaimer: I am not a chemical engineer and probably talk nonsense about such things.by animoose - General
I stumbled across this: . Anyone tried it? There seems to be a free edition.by animoose - General
QuoteWilberMaker Trying to print a lens holder for my HeadPlay goggles. How can I flip the file in Repeater? I can rotate the view but not the part. There are button in the area to the right of the object view for mirroring and rotating, close to the "+" you use for adding STL files.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Does this help: ? I've never tried it, but it might do what you want.by animoose - Printing
Update: I suspect this is a Slic3r problem. See .by animoose - Printing
I have a 10mm test cube, 0.1mm layer height, 30% in fill. If I slice it in 1.2.9, it says that 454 mm of filament is needed. Slic3r 1.1.7 says 244 mm, and Cura says 250 mm. The first of these numbers is much more than the others. So what's going on? Let's look at some layers in the preview. The first picture is from 1.2.9 and looks like more than 30%. The second picture is 1.1.7, and does not loby animoose - Slic3r
Hi, I was wondering if anyone can offer help in diagnosing this problem. One corner of my prints shows "bulging" after the first few layers. The pictures show a 10mm cube printed at 0.1mm layer height. The problem is present in all of the cubes but is most clearly visible in the 4th one of the first picture. Most the print is very precise, but one corner is badly distorted. It is the corner whereby animoose - Printing
A few updates. I checked with the manufacturer and they say this looks like a genuine board. The problem I have is that it will connect but does not stay connected. If I connect using Repetier Host, after a few minutes (2-5) I get "communication timeout reset send buffer block". If I connect using a serial terminal (PuTTy) and occasionally send a ls or help command, it stops responding. When theby animoose - Controllers
Quoteyayforwaffles @animoose - Got it! Working on a build right now! My issue was that the set screws keeping the gear in place with the shaft weren't tightened whatsoever. Once I tightened those bad boys up, it extrudes perfectly fine now! Thanks so much for the help. Glad to hear it is working. You aren't the first person to have been hit by this problem. To answer your question on temperaturby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Pictures of the board: top (https://goo.gl/photos/cwp5cbQVYuzV5qPP6), bottom (https://goo.gl/photos/7AYwKY798TJgjfFj6) and an attempt to show the crystal (https://goo.gl/photos/zomHV8Kqseb24gBy6). Sorry for the poor quality pictures.by animoose - Controllers
Quotedintid Quoteanimoose I got my board yesterday. It was advertised on ebay as V1.2 (and still is: ), but was actually a V1.3 board. I haven't yet hooked it up to my printer, but did connect it over USB, plugged a thermistor in and checked I got some sort of reading from it. Some problems getting the drivers to install on Windows 7 - it now seems to work but displays an error on first connectinby animoose - Controllers
I got my board yesterday. It was advertised on ebay as V1.2 (and still is: ), but was actually a V1.3 board. I haven't yet hooked it up to my printer, but did connect it over USB, plugged a thermistor in and checked I got some sort of reading from it. Some problems getting the drivers to install on Windows 7 - it now seems to work but displays an error on first connecting.by animoose - Controllers
@yayforwaffles - what material and temperature are you using? The ones in the Folger settings are not too good. The temperature could make a big difference to the second and third points. It might be the cause of the first point as well, and something else to check for this point is that the gear in the extruder is securely screwed down to the motors shaft (that is, he grub screws are tight). Aby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril Mine is bouncing twice on all axis as well when reaching the end stops, I think that's a normal behaviour in Marlin code. I think the idea is to do a fast homing move to find roughly where the limit is, then a slower one to find the position more accurately. However, it seems like this would only matter if you want to get the home position exactly right in a repeatable way. So it mattby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteOneSprague So I'm getting into my first build of a kit and the bed is not silky smooth. If I put my hand on it I can move it, but it seems a bit gritty for lack of a better term. It's just not glassy smooth. Should I be worried about this? Like this: ? That was how mine was during assembly, but it worked fine once everything was connected up, and also improved over time once it was in reguby animoose - Mechanics