I thought you might like to see a moment of pure awesomeness. I am printing a large spiral spring. Cura tries to avoid travel moves which cross the perimeters of the object, unlike Slic3r which takes straight lines and so gives more spider's webs. And it does travel moves as fast as possible. Wait until about 1:10 in the video.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
It's best to experiment, in my view. The ideal temperature varies with the filament (even amongst different suppliers of PLA) and the speed you print at. Based on my experience, I would say that 180 is a little low. These days I mostly use 190 or 195 with a bed temperature of 50.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix So in the rep host software how do I change my "default folgertech pla" temps? I see I can change default extruder temp but when I print using slic3r (Built into rep host) I have to choose a set parameters. So basically im asking how do I change that? Im print pla at 219 and i think it's to hot, I want to try 180. Thanks! Sam In Repetier's Slicer tab, click the Configuration buttonby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts I finally stared the E3D-Lite6 assembly. It includes "ferrules" for "solder-free" assembly. That's a convenience thing, right? I'm comfortable soldering so there's downside soldering vs crimping with the ferrules, correct? I soldered them and put some heatshrink over them, as I didn't fine the ferrules held on very well (though I don't own a crimping tool). BTW, I later on boughtby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethebabymaker Do you all use octoprint for this printer? I plugged in my printer to my raspberry pi and the LCD on the printer went white, then smoke started coming out of the MEGA and now its dead. I took the mega off and noticed a bent pin on the board, do you think thats what caused the short? Thanks everyone for all the help BTW - this forum has been so helpful in setting up my printerby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quoteanimoose QuoteUltiFix Im amazed at how hard my PLA sticks to the glass heated bed, it's not wanting to come off If it's stuck really hard, try warming up the bed with the manual controls in Repetier to around 50C. I let it cool down and ripped it off, I thought letting it be cool would help but I guess not. Thanks for letting me now! One thing to be aware of when doing this iby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Im amazed at how hard my PLA sticks to the glass heated bed, it's not wanting to come off If it's stuck really hard, try warming up the bed with the manual controls in Repetier to around 50C.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Those heatsinks have always bothered me too. At one point, I took them off and covered the whole of the top of the stepper driver with kapton tape except for a little hole over the chip where the heatsink sticks on.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I bought window glass from a local store. I think it's about 3mm, maybe slightly less. People say don't use 2mm as it may crack. If you want to go fancier, buy some borosilicate glass.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDjDemonD I've got one and can say it's a big improvement on the mk2b bed I had before. There is supposed to be a version out there with an smd thermistor soldered on which would be a huge improvement as there's no centre hole. I've printed successfully direct onto the aluminium with kapton tape over the whole, but now I have printbite so the hole in the centre isn't so much of an annoyance.by animoose - Reprappers
Quoteelwood127 The hole at the back of the plate would make for a miserable adjustment. This Helios would be awesome if the company would get off there asses and get them back in stock. I've been waiting for months. Reading some Facebook comments makes me think that they are flakes. To bad, I would love to have one. Thanks for the reply. Why would it make for a miserable adjustment? Is it becauby animoose - Reprappers
Hi, does anyone have experiences to share with the MK3 Aluminium core heatbed (such as ). What appeals to me about it is the flatness of the Aluminium combined with it being drilled for three point levelling, which I think would make for an easy to level surface.by animoose - Reprappers
I swapped out my E3D lite6 for a full E3D today. I was having problems with the E3D lite - the extruder kept clicking and losing steps, and this was because something was not letting the filament flow freely. I'm not sure if it was that the top of the PTFE tube had a slightly ragged edge of whether there was deposited plastic inside. I tried cleaning it out a month or so ago and there was a ton oby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I added the wiki to the custom search engine. If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, let me know.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D QuoteMach lol, I would agree it is pretty bad. Animoose made a custom google search for the thread that works much better. I agree that the forum search is less than worthless. We should link his search in our sigs, just like the wiki. And maybe put it on the wiki, if he doesn't mind. There is a different link that I would prefer: I set up the original search engine using my workby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJim72 I have a question regarding printing. Still waiting on parts to get this going. My question is this. I have read where people will set their firmware to print at 0.1mm or 0.2mm for better quality. The printer comes with a 0.4mm extruder tip, does this need to be changed to a smaller opening to facilitate printing thinner layers? Thanks, Jim I have a 0.4mm nizzle and usually print atby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
The frame is definitely rigid. A few people have added extra corner brackets, but I don't think it is necessary. I have not used ABS (the hottest I've gone is for PETG). Again, there are people on the forum who have used ABS, and I think some of them found it necessary to put the printer in an enclosure. I live in Southern California, so ambient temperature isn't usually a problem.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Planning on getting this printer, is this the right one? Thanks guys! Hopefully once I get it it goes together well! That's the one. Good luck and let us know how it goes.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChrisryn I have been following this thread for some time. I'm now ready to buy my kit. I wanna do several upgrades especially the y and x axis that sonnylowe did. I then ran across this printer and was wondering if it would essentially be the same as the Folger tech with the upgrades. Edit: Fixed wrong link. The frame looks a lot less rigid to me which will make it more prone to vibraby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach Quoteanimoose Right now I am thinking about building a CoreXY printer from scratch for the same reason of interest in the process of building it, and I would not have considered that if I hadn't learned so much by building and modifying the Folger. Did I hear someone say Corexy printer? I was recently in the process of making a custom one myself. I finished designing and modeling it,by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quoteanimoose QuoteUltiFix Looking over your blog it looks like you ran into a lot of issues, I wouldn't really call that easy After it was all said and done, how much did you spend in replacement parts? What was the total? I might have made it sound harder than it was. Looking back, it doesn't seem so difficult :-) Regarding replacements: the only thing I had to replace was the Rby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Looking over your blog it looks like you ran into a lot of issues, I wouldn't really call that easy After it was all said and done, how much did you spend in replacement parts? What was the total? I might have made it sound harder than it was. Looking back, it doesn't seem so difficult :-) Regarding replacements: the only thing I had to replace was the RAMPS+Mega, and that was I tby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix QuoteJeff000 QuoteUltiFix So im interested in getting this printer, im a newbie and im wondering if it's hard to get good results from this, Im good at soldering, and I have dabled in arduino. Im thinking about the Folger tech 20 20 I3 or this one. Like any kit the results are a direct result of the effort you put in. I really like my i3 2020 from folgertech, and without much of aby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix So im interested in getting this printer, im a newbie and im wondering if it's hard to get good results from this, Im good at soldering, and I have dabled in arduino. Im thinking about the Folger tech 20 20 I3 or this one. This was my first 3D printer; I had some electronics and general engineering skills. I got acceptable results easily, and have been able to get better and betterby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach QuoteMopar99 So over last weekend, I completed the upgrade of my hotend from the stock ft hotend to e3d v6 direct drive. After resetting it up and running some test prints, I notice that one of the pla filament that I had good luck with when running through the ft hotend doesn't work so well with the new hot end. Swapped filament brand & left the setting along in s3d, end result I gby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKeary123 QuoteKeary123 Quoteanimoose @keary123 I had a clicking problem on my E3D lite6 recently in a direct drive. There was a partial blockage because the PTFE liner wasn't pushed down as far as it needed to go. So plastic was accumulating in the gap between the end of the liner and the nozzle, and it was not hot enough to flow out the nozzle, but not completely solid. You could try takinby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
@keary123 I had a clicking problem on my E3D lite6 recently in a direct drive. There was a partial blockage because the PTFE liner wasn't pushed down as far as it needed to go. So plastic was accumulating in the gap between the end of the liner and the nozzle, and it was not hot enough to flow out the nozzle, but not completely solid. You could try taking it apart and seeing if the PTFE goes allby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteApettenon Hello All, Hopefully someone here has the knowledge to help me with my issue I have had great success and high quality results with this printer until this morning. Mid-print the printer stopped as if a driver was over heating, all motors stopped. This was not the case as I immediately checked each drivers temp, each reading was around 80F. Within seconds my whole room started tby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejcantalupo Just printed my first two 20mm calibration cubes and I'm pretty amazed at how well it went. I did a totally stock build, using the included bearings and hot end. For anyone as new to this as I am (read: totally new), I took my time on the build and found Charles Platt's book (Maintaining and Troubleshooting You 3D Printer) as well as this forum to be great resources. I followed Pby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe FT Upgrades...What's Next!?!? With my Y and X Axis upgraded, E3D hotend, and Bowden Extruder (my preferred extruder), I honestly believe my printer is about as good as it's going to get mechanically. I am running S3D so the slicing software is good to go as well. So I'm assuming the next logical upgrade would be the Electronics - Control System!?!? Is anyone running an alternatiby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants