Quotetherippa First print of the year - Happy New Year Everyone!!!! Happy New Year to you, and thank you for all your awesome contributions to this forum. I hoped we would make it to page 100 by the end of 2015 - so close!by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
My extruder is a E3D Lite6 attached to a spring loaded mechanism like this: . Recently it has started intermittently making "tick" or "clunk" noises and under-extruding so that areas that should be solid have gaps in them. This sounds like the extruder motor is skipping. It works fine when I test it by manually extruding filament, and I've tried adjusting the driver and even replacing it. It happby animoose - Printing
Another trick for clearing the extruder. Heat to 100C. Issue gcode M302 to allow cold extrusion. Retract filament. It will sometimes pull out a lump of filament that is blocking the extruder. This was suggested on another thread. I've used it, but have been a little nervous of damaging the PTFE liner in the extruder (I use a E3D lite6). Best of all is this: get hold of some fine welding wire. Yoby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotefoul_owl QuoteMach Quotefoul_owl Any pictures or info on routing the heated bed and y axis motor wiring? Thanks! The heated bed wires go to the D8 terminals, and the Y motor wires go to the top middle motor pins. Thanks, but I'm interesting in routing the wires. ie, preventing them from hanging loose. Right now I have a loose arc going from the bed up to the ramps board, but I can see thaby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
As there have been a couple of recent posting about start G code, here is mine. A couple of comments on it: it starts heating the bed and the extruder at the same time, though due to a pecularity of Repetier, it doesn't display the temperature of the bed until the extruder is up to temperature. The LCD shows it correctly. And then it draws a L-shape with the second part of the L rising into the aby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotemizelly41 I am having an issue that I can't figure out. I am getting great quality parts. On the very last 'Y' move of the print, it seems to move in the wrong direction. Since this is the very last move, it doesn't really cause too much of an issue. Usually just extrudes some plastic in mid air. Also after it completes this moves, which also completes the print, it has anby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuilt350camaro Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to fix me computer getting Firmware unresponsive error messages? I have replaced the USB cable already. Made sure my computer isn't turning the USB off. Really sucks when it dies mid print. Sometimes it will recover but others it just sits there and melts a hole in the print. Mine worked better on some USB ports than on others. In paby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 Anyone order from Folger Tech recently? I placed my order about a week and a half ago and they printed the label the next day but nothing has shipped? Don't worry, I think they always do that. My order showed as two shipping labels (one for the printer and one for the filament), and it arrived on two different labels.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
(Deleted, double post)by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
On the X and Y axis noise issue: I replaced the LM8UUs with ones from MakerGeeks. They are slightly more expensive than the original ones, but less than the Misumi ones, so I don't think they are really high quality. They did seem to be better lubricated than the original ones, for example they came in a plastic bag which clearly had oil coating the inside. At first they were not much different,by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Take a look on the Folger 2020 thread for posts by sonnylowe. They are doing some great work with v-slot rebuilds.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I have managed to get a few prints with Ninjaflex using the MK9/E3D lite6 combination, but it's chancy. Running it a very slow rate with no retraction helps. If you need flexible filament, but not quite as flexible as Ninjaflex, you could try Ninjaflex Semiflex or Taulman PCTPE. They are both a lot easier. I have a few example at (pages 10, 12 and 17).by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Any E3D other upgraders extruder motor getting really hot? Mine is getting probably hotter than it should and was starting to skip steps after printing 30 minutes. I tweaked the driver and now was able to run a 6 hour print but the motor still gets pretty hot. I am thinking part of the problem may be with the stock hot end there was the fan blowing on the extruder and now with the E3by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone have a note of the size and positions of the holes in the acrylic plate used to mount the electronics? Mine is a bit inaccessible right now, and I want to fit something to it. Later: NVM - got it.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Can we use any glass plate as long as its within the required dimensions? 213*200*3mm I use some ordinary 3mm window glass. I've read that using glass less than 3mm thick might be risky, as it could crack. Some people like borosilicate glass, but I've found the window glass has worked fine for me. Mostly I print PLA and PETG.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecatbagan Greetings! I received my 2020 last week. It's my first printer and I stayed up all night building it. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get any decent and my hot end got terribly clogged. It turns out the PTFE tube was damaged. I ordered a few replacement throats with the PTFE but I figured I check out the electronic surplus store over the hill. I was amazed that they had the exact PTby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Quotetjnamtiw Wow, I just had my first bitch-slap from J-MAX >> This guy hates FT and apparently is God, at least in his own mind. In his words, anyone who's only been around for 3 months has NOTHING to contribute to the forum. They should just sit quietly and learn even though I spent my entire working career of 50 years in electrical and electronic engineering. Sad, rby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL I seem to be having problems getting anything that doesn't have straight lines to hold dimensions in the first 1/4" off the build plate. I'm using ABS. Radiused corners tend to peel up in this 1/4" zone too. This is somewhat mitigated if I make the first 10 layers solid, but then the first 1/4" of the base winds up being a bit mis-shaped. I'm thinking it has to do with the bedby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
@therippa, what did you print the bearing holders with? I would guess ABS or PETG work better than PLA because they have a little more flexibility.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotetwigtree Does anybody knew where I can get some replacement set screws for the hotend? Or at least what size they are? Thanks I got 3 x 4mm set screws at Hobby Town USA. Not sure that's the size you need, but it's a good place to find small metric screws and such locally. If you need SHCS, Bolts, Screws, nuts Etc, Home Depot sells metric hardware done to 2mm diameter. They aby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow I'm thinking about converting my printer into a CoreXY Who wants to go first? therippa? animoose? haha Unlimited weight on the X axis! I admit I have thought about what to do next, and this is an option, but I think I'm probably going to spend more time in developing CAD skills for a bit. (Well, that and playing Sunless Sea.)by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Guys my bearings have a tendency to fall off/slide down sometimes from the chrome rods and 3d printed supports (these are the chrome rods which are supposed to be right beside the threaded rods). Any tips? Another thing is that sometimes the nut of the threaded rods doesn't stay in place in the 3d printed fixtures. Again, any tips? Im pretty much a noob builder and am having alotby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Hey guys For the black screws which we are supposed to tighten in order to not let the chrome rods move (the rods which support the heated bed), how did you guys tighten them? I can't find an alan key which fits. 3mm fits mine. I couldn't tighten them enough to get a good grip on the chrome rods, so what I did was put a little kapton tape round the end of the rod to act as a shim.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa So I'm thinking about switching back to direct drive so it's easier to swap filaments and I don't get the minor drip problem I have when autolevel is running. Anyone interested in a direct drive extruder that can handle flexible filament and uses an E3D V6? Looks pretty. One thing I'd like to see on a direct drive extruder is making the filament hole large enough to put a bit oby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Is anyone else starting to have problem printing now that the weather is getting colder? It doesn't get very cold in San Francisco, but my printer is right next to a window and I've been having warping/layer separation issues. It may be time to resurrect the idea of building an enclosure... Oddly enough, I have noticed this recently, though I also started a new roll of filament wby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedc42 One way is to heat the nozzle to an appropriate temperature (about 100C for PLA), slowly retract the filament, cut off the end, and re-load the filament. The retracted filament brings with it any debris in the nozzle. Is there a risk of pulling the lining out of the extruder or otherwise damaging it when doing this? For example, in a E3D lite6 where there is PTFE tubing all the way dowby animoose - Safety & Best Practices
Quotepeeejayz Hey all, Got my printer all set-up over the weekend, its been great fun and still getting the calibration right. But I have an annoying rattle(?) from the Y axis bed. It only really does it on long and fast movements - see this video: I thought it was from the side with only a single bearing as it seemed to mainly come from that side. I also re adjusted the smooth rods. I alsoby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Quoteanimoose Quoteelkayem Solved it! Sometimes it is worthwhile to go back and remeasure what you thought you already measured. When I was watching the gear drive struggling to turn, I thought I saw a problem with the motor struggling to overcome the torque required to push the filiment through the nozzle. Not the case! I went back and stuck a piece of tape to the motor shaft, aby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Solved it! Sometimes it is worthwhile to go back and remeasure what you thought you already measured. When I was watching the gear drive struggling to turn, I thought I saw a problem with the motor struggling to overcome the torque required to push the filiment through the nozzle. Not the case! I went back and stuck a piece of tape to the motor shaft, and then saw the shaft was tby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow QuoteMrfus wow... there are so many nice looking prints!!!!!! I have being doing some work on a bracket to put a cooling fan in front of the extruder and make pla cool faster to reduce problems with the areas where there are overhang, and I have played a little with the support material setting on Slic3r without too much success , the supports that the software generate are tooby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants