I have been cutting it off close to the top of the extruder, then heating up the nozzle and running the extruder motor. Then when the old filament is down far enough I feed the new stuff in. I too am worried about damage from pulling it out the top and this way has been working.by msaeger - General
Quotezarnold16 quick question i accidently bought a piece of glass 9.5" x 9.5" for the heated bed. Is that too big or could I make it work? I don't think you can without cutting it, it would be on top of the leveling screws. A glass cutter is only a few dollars and it's easy to do.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Accidently broke a blade off the cool block cooling fan it was too loud from being unbalanced to use at all so I replaced it with one from a external cd-rom enclosure. This new one is so much quieter than the one that came with I wonder it it's moving enough air. How would I know if it's not cooling enough?by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
xby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I got it to print! I set the default extrusion width to .7 mm and the first layer to 100% in advanced. Then I did 1 vertical shell, 0 top and bottom shells, and no infill. I found the slic3r manual on their website and found were to set the extrusion width.by msaeger - Printing
QuoteDownunder35m Easiest would be with a 0.5mm nozzle and proper calibration for the printer. Nested prints are always a challenge, so before you waste a lot of plastic and nerves on it do some calibration prints. When you say with a .5 mm nozzle you mean a nozzle with a physical diameter of .5 mm not just setting the nozzle diameter to .5 mm right?by msaeger - Printing
I am trying to print this quick print gear bearing. They call for doing a .7 mm thick single wall. I slic3r I have figured out how to turn off infill and set the set the top and bottom layers to 0 but how do I change the wall thickness? If I change the number of vertical shells I either get too thick or too thin. Is there somewhere else I set the wall thickness?by msaeger - Printing
Quotemike3 Quotezarnold16 I was wondering where I could find a BOM for this printer I didn't seem to see on on the website or the G-Drive? My printer will be arriving Saturday if USPS doesn't mess up and before I start building I wanted to make a checklist for the parts to see what I'm missing. A BOM would have been nice.. I havn't seen any except what's printed on the separate packs of parts yoby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
What are you guys using for speed settings? Here's what I have am I running too slow?by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas My original x motor goes unbearably hot. Turning the voltage down caused more problems due to skipped steps. Its for these reasons i replaced it with a bigger stepper. @ejnelson. Ill be posting them over probably by weekends. Got a link to what motor? Did you need to make a different X carriage end?by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecosmorock Quotemsaeger I heard them talk about that on the 3d printing today podcast. They called it ditto printing. hey msaeger !! How is your experience with folgertech? I liked the simplicity, and am thinking of shipping it here. It's been great! I had one issue with getting it together but after that the printers were good and have been getting better as I learn all the slic3r settingsby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I like the stuff I got at microcenter and it's cheap too.by msaeger - General
I heard them talk about that on the 3d printing today podcast. They called it ditto printing.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I actually don't have a print cooling fan and the cool block cooling fan is directly wired to the power supply so it's on all the time. I haven't printed anything with a bridge with the petg yet.by msaeger - Reprappers
I saw that too. Would a thermal fuse on the power for the heated bed and hot end be just as good?by msaeger - Reprappers
The stuff I got doesn't feel sticky but it is much more flexible than the PLA I got from folgertech. The sainsmart PLA I got also feels much more flexible than the folgertech stuff too. The PETG at microcenter was 25 USD and the ABS I got was 15 USD they were showing the ABS being on sale with a normal price of 20 USD. Now that I have all these open rolls going I should probably get an airtightby msaeger - Reprappers
I would recommend the folger tech kit too. I have 0 experience and thanks to some help on the forum here I am getting good prints. It seems like everyone is missing a few parts but big deal for this price either make a trip to the hardware store or wait for them to send replacements.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Setting it to do infill before shells got the cube flat on top but when I printed another thing that is only 5 layers I could still feel a bump on the top like the infill is a little lower.by msaeger - Printing
When I print with PLA the infill at the top of my cube is lower than the shells. With PETG I was able to get it perfect by upping the extrusion multiplier but with the PLA that didn't change it. Any ideas what to try?by msaeger - Printing
Here are the settings I have been using for the microcenter PETG. This stuff has been working really good I have been getting the tops of things perfectly flat I still haven't done that with PLA. Had to switch to some green PLA now because the 3 year old wants something printed in green and they didn't have green PETG at microcenter. bed_temperature = 80 bridge_fan_speed = 100 cooling = 1 disaby msaeger - Reprappers
Quotezarnold16 Is there a list of tools to assembly this printer? I am gonna purchase this printer next week and would like to know what tools are needed so I can get them ready for when the printer arrives. I remember needing metric allen wrenches, phillips screw drivers, calipers, wire cutters, 3mm drill bit, pliers. Depends on what parts you are missing and how accurate of a build you wantby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe Probably it´s not a temp problem, but underextrusion? Also the difference between 25% and 26% in Cura´s infill is huge. -Olaf You are a genius! I set the extrusion multiplier to 1.1 and it's perfect. Thanks!by msaeger - Reprappers
Quotemsaeger Has anyone used PETG filament with this machine? I want to try something that will won't soften from being in the car on a hot day and I have been reading PETG doesn't smell like ABS. Here's the thread I started about PETG if anyone is curious.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I printed a long thing thing and I saw no warping and the part released easily this I printed with a bed temp at 70 and extruder temp at 220. Still seeing the top layer sink a little. I am going to try it again with the temp extruder at 210.by msaeger - Reprappers
I bought some of the Microcenter PETG and printed a cube. This is on a Folgertech 2020 i3. I used the Folgertech ABS profile and lowered the extruder temp from 240 to 230 and the bed temp from 100 to 80. It stuck to clean bare glass good and released easily. The only issue I see with this print is the top sunk in. I printed it with 3 shells and 20% infill. I think I need to lower the temp mby msaeger - Reprappers
Has anyone been using PETG filament? I have only tried PLA so far and am looking for something that will withstand the heat of being left in the car better. I have read so many issues with ABS so I am looking for something else to try.by msaeger - Reprappers
Has anyone used PETG filament with this machine? I want to try something that will won't soften from being in the car on a hot day and I have been reading PETG doesn't smell like ABS.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Can someone tell me how I can print multiple copies individually in Repetier? I am trying to do it with slic3r and have checked complete individual parts under output options but it still printed them all at once.by msaeger - Repetier
.85 extrusion multiplier or something else?by msaeger - Printing