Have you tried to push the carriage so it triggers the end stop before you try and move it? It sounds like an end stop thing to me. I had issues like that from end stops and fixed it by fumbling around until it worked so I can't suggest much.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
What does something like a 20mm cube or cylinder look like?by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
That is pretty amazing. You will have to update how you upgrade after you start printing parts.by msaeger - Reprappers
Buy an e3d hotend and a titan extruder. You could but the hotend and maybe keep the same extruder or print a new one but I would just buy them both and you will something you know will be good.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
How about a removable aluminum plate clipped to the non-removable one just like you would with the glass? I wouldn't want to not have something that can be removed because it will need to be cleaned and if a part is hard to get off I don't want to tweak the printer. I have found you can't count on the glass being flat. The flattest I have found is a 4mm aluminum plate white glass on top. The alumby msaeger - Reprappers
If you use the panel to move the axis a little they will stay energized for a while. I have never had an issue with that and I load filament with the steppers off.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I have only needed to relace the ptfe liner in the hotend due to wear. Everything else I have replaced was a upgrade or just to try something different. I do not have the kit from prusa though. His kit looks like it comes with pretty good stuff so I wouldn't thing you would need to upgrade stuff unless you just want to mess around.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
How do you define a smooth surface? Post a picture of what you are getting now.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBrotherbrown831 i just added a simple bit of Gcode to the startup script in my slicer. Very simple to do. The bed takes about the same time to heat up, is uses a larger heater pcb, i would say any larger than this and I would recommend a 120v heater on a relay. here is my start Gcode: G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fanby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Well, I thought I fixed my extruder problem but I guess not... It the middle of a print it will stop extruding. I tried tightening the threaded hotend into the heat break and the hotend into the threaded piece. If I take it apart and put it back together it will work for abit... Then stop extruding again. Should I try heating my hotend up to around 230 and then try cleaning it withby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a folgertech one too but if you are willing to spend that much I would get the kit from pursa. I got the folger one because of the cheap price and it works pretty good but I have upgraded just about every part on it. Either that or just build your own from scratch. It seems like most of the kits come with crappy hotends and extruders so if you make your own you can just get an e3d v6 and aby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you need to do something in firmware for the nozzle cleaner? I have seen those on the luzbot and it seems like a good idea. Does that bed take longer to heat up than the stock one? It must require more power.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
No but I opened up the psu and removed all the extra wires then I soldered the two together to make it turn on and they are inside the case. I turn it off and on using the hard switch.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you doing something different to power the bed heater?by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you tried a brim? I always need to use a brim to get it to stay down. I use aquanet and a brim. I have now been making the brim two layers since I got simplify3d since sometimes I had the part break away from the brim. I think it's worth finding something that will work I think abs is better than pla in every other respect.by msaeger - Printing
QuoteKeary123 Quotemsaeger Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed. Im using S3Dby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks good have fun with the Y now This v-slot stuff is the way to go it's so much easier than the rods and bearings. I left my rail at 500mm but still am using the small bed because I was too afraid of screwing it up trying to cut it. With it all together what is the tallest thing you can print now? Do you know how much you gained? I will defiantly be using your idea if I do the Z axis havinby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
When I have seen the walls separated from the infill it has bee from under extrusion. I had it a few days ago from accidentally bumping the flowrate slider in repetier down to 80%.by msaeger - Printing
I am doing the same thing only I have at corsair 430 watt that wasn't modular. I am just using four of the wires from the PCIE connector and I am printing right now with the hotend at 245 and the bed at 100. I have only had it setup for a few months but I don't feel I am taxing anything because the fan on the psu doesn't kick into high, the wires are at room temp, and it doesn't take any longer tby msaeger - General
The one I got was a refurb corsair from microcenter it was less than 30 bucks. Totally worth it from the noise reduction.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
According to the wiki the PCB heatbed and hotend together could take more than the 14A they are saying you can draw on the 12V line but for the heat bed they say 5-15 amps so that's a broad range. I am using a 430 watt ATX psu on my folger 2020 and have had no issues. Mine does't have it broken down for each voltage like yours but I don't think I am taxing it because it's staying cool and the fanby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I was thinking of buying some stuff for the X axis because of the sale. Do you know when it ends? I didn't see a date. You could still mount it on the face and have the extruder separate from the mount. I only say that because then it could be used with other extruders like the stock one, a titan, or a bulldog or something else. I think one of those metal brackets they are using to mount the Zby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I agree having the motor above the rail is a good idea. I have been using Sonny's Y setup for a few months. I didn't do anything with the X yet. Instead of having the mount integrated into the extruder have you thought about just making something to mount the motor on the plate and mount a separate extruder to the motor. You would just need something like a 90 degree plate to mount the motor.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I like my e3d v6 with the titan extruder.by msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehobbes so as i'm recently cleaning my hotend, i see that hidden ptfe tube inside, which i hadn't noticed before. Why is that there? Can the printer function without it? Can i replace it with a metal tube of the same OD and ID? Is there a disadvantage to upgrading to an all metal hotend with this printer? Oh, and my thermistor wire snapped and the little resistor thingy unexpectedly flung ofby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix This doesnt happen very often, but lately its happend twice in a row. My filament will jam in the middle of a print, and I can hear clicking noises coming out of the extruder... I noticed filament was jammed inside my hotend, so I just heated the hotend up really hot and pushed out the plastic. 1. Im wondering what causes this to happen randomely? 2. Is it time for me to get a nby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants
I would guess binding on the X axis. If you take the belt off the motor pulley how easy does the carriage move?by msaeger - Printing
Quotetherippa Hey guys, Long time since I logged in here, two things: 1. Is anyone thinking of getting the new Folgertech FT-5 CoreXY-style printer? 2. First print in about two months, not bad considering the filament definitely has some moisture in it... I think if I get another machine I will build it from scratch using someone elses plan like the cbot or the smartrap core. I really want tby msaeger - Prusa i3 and variants