Quotejonathanfede I just built the same 3D printer, but I have problems when printing, do not know how to configure the program repetier, and achieve the essential good, I'm connected and I can send to print. But does not print well, I guess that is the setting of the Slider, I could help by placing images of all the settings you have in the program repetier. Besides that you use to hold the fiby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa How long is it taking to come to 105 with the aluminum build plate? It was taking far too long and completely unnecessary. After testing things out, I now print with the bed at 100 and the Hot End 240 first layer, 230 subsequent layers. I had it down to an even 200 for a while but was getting pretty significant delamination so upped it again.by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally did up the GEEETech review and build thread. Not a bad machine really, but I still prefer the FT as of right now.by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
I love the Folger Tech 2020 i3 but had to try the GEEETech Prusa i3 after looking at the info online. I ordered one from eBay that would come direct form the company in China. The Good: - 8mm Z Axis Lead screws! - 8mm Acrylic frame (sharp looking and sturdy once built) - preconfigured electronics, no mods or loading firmware so build and print (although I plan to dig in and fine tune some thingby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been hammering the printer with a lot of things and finally started to hear a grinding on the LM8UU for the bed (single bearing side). I replaced all three with printed ones which are actually working very well after a little break in. I'm going to try a different style soon though as these ones seems to hang up a bit. No more Grindy sounds! Currently printing a new extruder/hotend mountby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Makes no sense to me from a business standpoint if you want to build trust. I build Guitar pedals and pickups as a mostly mail-order business and if there's any kind of delay, I let my customers know asap. Keeping people guessing and waiting without communication is just poor practice.by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetadawson I have never had Folger fail to respond . . . or to fail to take care of problems . . . they just aren't as quick as some would like. They also appear to use tne USPS tracking stuff to manage orders, in that they do create to tag immediately . . . but if an item is delayed or out of stock, it sits until the order is complete . . . - Tim They responded today well within the 24hrby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Paypal is your friend. Their autoresponder says message received and 24-48 hours response time so I'll give them a bit more and wait until Friday to hear back.by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Well this is annoying. I put in an order with FolgerTech for some upgrade parts and paid on July 23rd. I got a UPS shipping number the next day. I just checked tracking wondering where the parts are (Now Aug 5th) and the tracking indicates the package still hasn't been received by UPS. Message sent to the FT team but so far unimpressed on this order and lack of communication. On the Geeeteby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
So now I'm building a Geeetech Prusa i3 kit to compare to the Folgertech while I wait for the upgrade parts (lead screws, etc) for the big tear down. I'll start a thread for that one on it's own but I have to say I'm very impressed with what I'm seeing in the box and the customer support. More info on that later. For the FT machine, I've removed the end mount for the cable chain and will likby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 QuoteCheopisIV Quoteanimoose I'm about to start rebuilding the X/Z axes using wderoxas's parts ( and , with one small change). If you don't hear me say any more about this, it means it all went wrong and I took up a different hobby, like knitting brightly colored socks for small dogs. The motor standoffs are awesome! I'm waiting on some 8mm screws and other parts from Folger Tecby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose I'm about to start rebuilding the X/Z axes using wderoxas's parts ( and , with one small change). If you don't hear me say any more about this, it means it all went wrong and I took up a different hobby, like knitting brightly colored socks for small dogs. The motor standoffs are awesome! I'm waiting on some 8mm screws and other parts from Folger Tech before I tear down the X/Z aby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Well, I solved a bunch of my issues tonight by splurging on Simplify3D. My calibration cubes no longer have the bad corner, my x-axis motor is somehow quieter, I no longer have sagging bridges, printed x and y dimensions are uniform down to the first decimal place, and my print time estimates are way more accurate. I really wish there was a trial version of the software for peopleby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Glue Stick!!! Wow is all I can say. I was using the ABS slurry with mixed results; once it glued my print to the bed so hard I had to chip it away with a hammer and pliers... a beautiful print ruined by adhesion! No more ABS and Acetone for me, the Glue Stick is doing it on this new aluminum bed with no issues so far. I have the washable variety, not Purple as some suggest and it works just fby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Does anyone know what might be causing this waviness? I can't find it documented anywhere online... Have you tried thicker shell and lower infill overlap?by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetadawson Had you run a PID tune on the 40w, you would have been in the same place . . . the PID values in Marlin aren't correct for much. Mine was all over with 40w as per defaults, but was a straight, flat line after tuning. I am on an E3D as well now, and actually wish I still had the 40w . . if I agressively cool bridging, the 25w can't keep up, a problem I never had with 40w . . . - Timby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNeverdone I just purchased my Prusa about 2 weeks ago! Started assembling it Tuesday and am having a lot of fun so far putting it together. I have also been reading some of the posts on this thread but wanted to ask, are there any modifications you guys recommend right off the bat? I am planning on replacing some of the hardware because I am not too excited about how it fits, ground downby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Got some free time.. Here's how long from the original: If you notice from the photo (encircled), i removed the slot along the line between the bearing holder and the nut holder. I cant find any reason for it to be there except probably when the original design was made. Here is the STL file (no slot): With Slot: Thanks a bunch! Now I need to get the 8mm screws and get priby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
I was almost able to put a sheet of paper in there so 2mm should do the trickby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Glad you liked it. I can't picture what you meant with flipping the motor side x bracket. I could probably help you do some adjustments but i need to know where the additional length should be added. I'd appreciate some help I basically want to remove the entire X-Axis carriage, rods, screws and swing it around as a whole so the right side (motor mount side) is on the left. Thisby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
These cages are fantastic! I'm still using the 5mm screws but intend to upgrade later on. The hanging couplers have annoyed me from day 1 with the potential to sag and now I have an easy 170mm print height! My stock screws are kinda shortish so they don't sit full flush with the motor shafts but there seems to be no issue as of yet. I had to drop them to get the Z axis to home without movingby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Another update with a few changes.... Heated bed was too sluggish so I found a rubber placemat and cut it down to size, then cut two pieces of felt to fit underneath it for some give. This helped push the heating plate to the aluminum bed and heatup is now much faster. I also flipped the heating plate over so the element was against the bed as per some online recommendations. In this pic youby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
The tables worked perfect for the hot end, it's the bed thermistor that's not playing ball with the Marlin values.by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Okies, got the tables changed. Basically I copied table values from the FT Firmware file thermistortables.h and replaced them in the new one. I'm pretty sure it was the value set from line 212-264 (Notepad++) for the 100k Epcos thermistor. I'm currently printing at 102C and my temp gun says 98C so pretty close! I'm attaching the config.h, pins.h and thermistortables.h in here that are workingby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm actually back to the FT firmware until I can look at the heater tables a bit more. Using the latest Marlin I wasn't able to get a reading on the bed thermistor over 86 degrees, switching back to FT I saw an immediate 10 degree jump in temps before the bed cooled down which shows the thermistor wasn't reading right. I did a quick look through the tables and have to figure out which set ofby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetadawson The LCD should be nothing more than uncommenting two (and only two) lines in Configuration.h - one for SD card support, and the other for the Reprap discount graphic controller. Myself, I'd be hard pressed to get a video out of that . . . - Tim He also shows how to change the control to get some better behaviour. Useful info for those of us unfamiliar with Arduino.by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Sure, I'll go back and find them when I get a chance. Here's current state, full printing and man this is a great machine! Quiet operation, perfect circles, some issues with adhesion on the first layer so I went with the ABS slurry trick to get sticking. I bought an aluminum print bed from eBay user Leap3D. I also bought 2 E3D V6 type direct drive and one bowden model from him and they'reby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
That solved it... definitely a PEBKAC issue. Then to get the 12864 panel working I followed Tom in this vid;by CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
Looking for some help here; I'm trying to change over from the Folger Tech firmware to the standard Marlin build and also trying to learn how to do this Arduino thing. I have some history in C++ and other languages so understand the syntax, etc but am not having any luck on getting the printer to run when I do the upload. Reverting to the FT firmware everything goes back to normal. I went thby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants
I actually had to add zip ties to the Y-Carriage as it was slipping on me when I tightened Here's the current x-Axis holder. Not sure it's overly reliable with the end stop just pressed in...will have to see. I always loved the look of the cable chains!! I also moved my PSU and boards to the left side to get better position and clearance on the PSU cover I'm using (pics later) Fans for thby CheopisIV - Prusa i3 and variants