Quotemike3 Quotewderoxas Quotemike3 Quotemike3 Quotetherippa Quotemike3 Well after several days of great printing.. my extruder stopped heating up... has anyone else had this problem.. I can still home and move x,y,z manually.. when I check the contacts on the ramps board there is no voltage... Can anyone help,, can I hook up the Extruder heater wires directly to 12v to see if it is working ..by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] So I have yet to figure out my X-home issue but decided to try some prints anyways. I printed out a 20x20x20 cube and ended up with 20.5x20.5x18.5 was not alarmed since I suspected my bed leveling sucked looks like my first layer is just getting smeared and not extruded plus I would get clicks from my extruder as it tried to pull more filament in while unable to pushby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemike3 Quotemike3 Quotetherippa Quotemike3 Well after several days of great printing.. my extruder stopped heating up... has anyone else had this problem.. I can still home and move x,y,z manually.. when I check the contacts on the ramps board there is no voltage... Can anyone help,, can I hook up the Extruder heater wires directly to 12v to see if it is working ..and how can you check theby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCheopisIV I was almost able to put a sheet of paper in there so 2mm should do the trick Got some free time.. Here's how long from the original: If you notice from the photo (encircled), i removed the slot along the line between the bearing holder and the nut holder. I cant find any reason for it to be there except probably when the original design was made. Here is the STL file (no sloby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Oh. I see. This should be possible. Im gonna give it a shot when im off from work. 2mm clearance is fine?by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCheopisIV These cages are fantastic! I'm still using the 5mm screws but intend to upgrade later on. The hanging couplers have annoyed me from day 1 with the potential to sag and now I have an easy 170mm print height! My stock screws are kinda shortish so they don't sit full flush with the motor shafts but there seems to be no issue as of yet. I had to drop them to get the Z axis to homeby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
There is also an instance when you cant home z unless x and y were homed first. Not sure though if it was there by default or it was only activated when i configured my firmware for auto bed levelling. It was safe_home or something. If i remember it right, it took effect when i enabled that option.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quotewderoxas My original x motor goes unbearably hot. Turning the voltage down caused more problems due to skipped steps. Its for these reasons i replaced it with a bigger stepper. @ejnelson. Ill be posting them over probably by weekends. Got a link to what motor? Did you need to make a different X carriage end? I bought it from a local supplier here in Singapore. This is the spby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Got some free time at work today. So here goes: Z standoff Modified X-Ends for 8mm lead screw. Belt tensioner derived from heartless' design. Im dropping in here one of my GDrive folder for the inventor part files and some other stuffs im working on.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
My original x motor goes unbearably hot. Turning the voltage down caused more problems due to skipped steps. Its for these reasons i replaced it with a bigger stepper. @ejnelson. Ill be posting them over probably by weekends.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
This is from a previous post by Tenny. This could help fix your problem. QuoteTenny Ok I got it fixed. So if you keep the cables wired as they are in the manual this will fix it: Change the following in configuration.h #define INVERT_X_DIR true to #define INVERT_X_DIR false #define X_HOME_DIR -1 to #define X_HOME_DIR 1 With the printer off PHYSICALLY move the x-axis stopper to the left oneby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
This is something i have overlooked before. In the instruction, at the latter end where there are photos of the connections, take a good look at the stepper connector for the x motor on the ramps board. This connection is inverted compared to y,z and extruder. It will also help of you can upload here your Configuration.h file of the firmware you uploaded.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose @wderoxas - where did you get the corner brackets from (buy or make?). And are the STLs for your new parts on thingiverse? These looks like some nice mods. The corner brackets were bought from a hardware store. Theyre meant to support wall shelves so its pretty sturdy. Its a 3 or 4mm stainless steel L bracket with two holes on each side. The x carriage is a 4 bearing carriage takby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
From pins.h #define E0_STEP_PIN 26 #define E0_DIR_PIN 28 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24 #define E1_STEP_PIN 36 #define E1_DIR_PIN 34 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30 You could probably switch them just to verify that the atmega pins used on E0 are not the problem. e.g: #define E0_STEP_PIN 36 //26 #define E0_DIR_PIN 34 //2by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
I used to have this problem. Sometimes, if your printer is over extruding, bumps of these over extruded materials (more prevalent on solid infills or top/bottom shells) are lumped higher than the current z height. If given enough time to cool down and harden, the head could get stucked on those "bumps" if it needed to pass over it when moving to other area. I needed to fine tune my extrusion toby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Some upgrades done on my printer: Z motor stand off to reclaim around 40mm Z build height 8mm lead screw with 2mm pitch (purchased from FT) constrained on top end with a 608 bearing to eliminate the "springy" hold of the motor coupler Replaced with a bigger X axis stepper motor Corner brackets were also replaced. The frame is more rigid now. Currently i can set repetier's feed rate to 300by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] Quote691175002 [email protected] Anyone have any thoughts about trying this he says he has some different metals he would like to try to make them out of but thinks aluminum would be best for heat distribution. I wonder if I should just build the printer with the plastic printed parts or try it with the metal cnc ones. I'm worried I may need the slop of thby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRoches I got the acrylic kit last Thursday (July 10) after ordering it the Thursday before. Shipping was to Canada and was therefore insanely expensive and came with a surprise $66.60 customs fee on delivery. The category was "steel" so I think they were being merciful -- the customs fee for 20 lbs of "electronics" would probably have bee more than I paid for the kit. (There's only one Canadby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
The standoff could potentially free up another 40 mm in z. The supplied threaded rod has plenty of extra length to accomodate for this so it should be ok. However, in my case im switching them out for lead screw so the initial design has a provision for a 608 bearing to constrain the top end. I know constraining the rod/lead screw could induce z banding but then, i really dont like the feeling oby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n QuoteRedneckGeek The longer M3 bolts that hold the extruder assembly together were too long. These are the bottom two that go through the fan, heatsink, and extruder and into the motor. The fan and everything was loose. No big deal though, just took about .7mm off the tips of the threaded ends and bolted it all back up. I also epoxied the M5 nuts into the Z/X brackets and while I wby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Those brackets are only needed for the Y- idler. You should only get two of those. You got a bunch of them? Standard corner brackets are L-shaped with set screw inside. If they have switched their corner brackets, then you should have a lot of T- nuts too. If this is the case, and you didn't get at least two of those L-shaped corner brackets, then you'll have a problem installing the Z rods.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Darn. An enclosure was on my to-do list. How bad was the meltdown and which part of the x axis were affected?by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n Quoteanimoose Quotecvanclev Thanks animoose! You've been such a great resource on this forum and in your blog. I'll provide whatever tips and assistance I can when I begin the build later this week. I think you are correct regarding the STLs and unit specification. As a corollary, did you have to manually scale in Reptier/Slic3r? I did no manual scaling, but I did need to tune the parby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAridad Quotewderoxas Aside from tightening them (which could probably get loose again overtime due to vibrations), will an rtv silicone on the threads can get it sealed for good? Its usually rated for 350 degrees and up since its used to seal engine blocks. 350 degrees Fahrenheit is not good enough... 200 Celsius is 424 Fahrenheit. I regularly use 230c for the first layer... I'm pretty suby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Aside from tightening them (which could probably get loose again overtime due to vibrations), will an rtv silicone on the threads can get it sealed for good? Its usually rated for 350 degrees and up since its used to seal engine blocks.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose @wderoxas - try printing the first layer slower. I used 30% speed in Slic3r. Also set the first layer extrusion width in the advanced settings to 200%. These helped a lot with avoiding corners warping. And the last thing is try the same temperature for all layers, that is no special temperature for the first layer. I think that matters more with PLA as it doesn't have the elasticityby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] I have started reading and rereading the guide now. Could you direct me to a good how to forum or guide for beginners? In addition to the printer I grabbed 4 rolls pla (black, white, blue, pink), some 3mm drill bits for cleaning, and 3 optical stops (my first upgrade all ready planned). I need to figure out what type of 8x8 glass to get was thinking I might just askby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
The back portion seems fine. But generally, when printing with a big square object with ABS, i noticed that the back corners are also lifted slightly when looking at the object's base. Right now, im thinking of merging at least a quarter of those circles with my object. Im gonna have to finish this one first and see if it is reasonably usable. Otherwise, im gonna try merging them. Any pro-tipsby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Those were the glass holder and spacer i printed from abs. To get rid of the springs and clips altogether.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Currently printing a 4-bearing x carriage with ABS. I have placed massive circles on the four corners but i guess it isn't enough to hold it down and keep it from lifting. Looks like the corners at the front already lifted slightly..by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants