Quotemel0n This is exactly what people should NOT be doing. Yes it will work, but your also putting your printer out there on the default port for websites, so when that guy in china hits your ip when he is running a long term scan on his server array, youve now become a target. And believe me China WILL ATTACK YOU if you put anything on port 80 ever. We had a guy from china break into VM's setby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGarben Quotetadawson Quotehobbes Finally got my printer today. I'm checking all the parts. Noticed through the bag that some parts on this board were bent. Could an expert set of eyes tell me if i should request for a new part or will this work just fine? If it bugs you, bend 'em back vertical, but from an electrical standpoint, unless the tabs are touching, it's irrelevant. In this day aby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetadawson QuoteIf you aren't up for tinkering haproxy on the pi, then port forwarding on your router might be easier. Forward a port of your choice to pi's ip:80. Meh . . . 128 bit encrypted OpenVPN tunnel into the network, call it good . . . and don't have to screw with anything on the host side . . . - Tim Hahaha, yeah i know. I was thinking of suggesting that, as well as an ssh tunnel wby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Guys, i need some advise. Im working on converting my i3 to a dual extruder bowden. I've read a lot that the extruder for bowden should have a pretty good amount of torque on it. Will the slim steppers that came with our kit be up for the task? I want to do a direct drive extruder (no gears) if possible to keep it simple. Perhaps someone might have tried it out? I looked up for torque multiplieby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
If you aren't up for tinkering haproxy on the pi, then port forwarding on your router might be easier. Forward a port of your choice to pi's ip:80.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJimF2799 Hi folks - Just started putting together my kit and the heater for the bed is warped. Will this go away once it is used or do I need to get it replaced? It would seem IMHO that I would have heating issues if the glass plate isn't making contact across the area of the heater. How much will the glass clamps mitigate this issue? Thanks - Jim Mine was also warped when i got it. To ensurby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteejnelson Quotewderoxas Quotetherippa Quoteejnelson Quotemarkts Quoteejnelson Anyone have trouble getting the reprapdiscount smart controller to work? mine only lights up when the computer is connected via USB. the point of the controller is to be able to use the machine when the USB is NOT connected. what the heck. I had the same trouble, but apparently others got it to work out of the box.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Quotetherippa Quoteejnelson Quotemarkts Quoteejnelson Anyone have trouble getting the reprapdiscount smart controller to work? mine only lights up when the computer is connected via USB. the point of the controller is to be able to use the machine when the USB is NOT connected. what the heck. I had the same trouble, but apparently others got it to work out of the box. Check my postby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quoteejnelson Quotemarkts Quoteejnelson Anyone have trouble getting the reprapdiscount smart controller to work? mine only lights up when the computer is connected via USB. the point of the controller is to be able to use the machine when the USB is NOT connected. what the heck. I had the same trouble, but apparently others got it to work out of the box. Check my post on page 5. Iby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterollinns Quotetherippa For autoleveling, I'm not messing with that servo arm setup, I ordered an aluminum hot bed plate and will be using the inductor method - I agree, I could be wrong, but I think using something solidly fixed (inductor) will be more consistent than the servo based bed leveling methods. This one can be used with a glass bed, (and presumably an aluminum bed) and the pricby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the full graphics controller and i saw the same behavior when i had switched the connection of the two ribbon cables. 1 went to 2 and vice versa.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
By the way, should you go for auto bed levelling, you have to consider the additional wear that it woud impose on your m5 threaded rods and its nuts. Ive also read some feedback that an anti backlash mechanism for z is necessary, but i never really get the reason why. As for my kit, i had some acetal (delrin) plastic lying around so i tapped it and substituted it for the nut.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
You mean kit for the bed levelling? Never had the chance to look for a kit since im staying in singapore. So i just designed my own. Bought a servo, designed an attachment on the extruder motor and servo arm for the z endstop.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
During homing, the servo arm lowers the arm with the z endstop. Then raise it again once the z endstop is triggered. During bed level calibration, it will do the same behavior. Yes, you will need to get the offsets (x,y and z) from the extruder tip to the endstop. You will also need to set the servo angles for the arm retract and lowering.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
It requires extra hardware which is a servo and a few settings to modify on the firmware to enable this feature as well as to set the correct offsets from the extruder tip to the z endstop. Basically, your z endstop will be relocated on the servo which is attached at the X carriage/extruder motor or wherever it can be practically placed. During bed levelling/calibration, the servo will extend andby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotearxidon Does anyone know of a way to easily turn on/off the power supply? There doesn't seem to be any switch that I can see. I'm just asking because the extruder fan is continually on the way the guide says to wire it. I suppose the alternative is to wire the fan into the RAMPS board? Just an idea. You might be able to utilize RAMPS PS-ON pin. However, this was intended for use on ATX powby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose I haven't seen any sign of it moving, but I did have some similar thoughts. I was wondering if you could mount the motor on one side of the X carriage and the rest of the mechanism on the other, to bring the center of mass closer to the x rods. I think it's possible, but then you'd need a longer shaft from the motor to the filament drive, and you would have to carefully lay it out sby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Ive been thinking, isnt the extruder tip a bit far away from the rod. You guys know any x carriage design that can make it a bit closer to the rods.? Cause i have been observing my prints for a while and noticed that the laid down a plastic is a bit zigzag-y and the layer heights are sometimes, a bit uneven. Ive been contemplating whether this is due to motor vibrations. This problem can be compoby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
For best first layer results, i suggest you setup the auto bed levelling. Its the best upgrade ive ever done with this printer.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
As for the extruder, if you havent noticed, there are two holes on the aluminum block, left and right. There are also two corresponding locations on the extruder assembly where you you could place the v bearing (youll see it if you open it). Of course both of them should be inline. However, the motor rotation needs to switch direction depending on where your hotend is placed. Mine is at the rightby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Bill: I had the same problem when i built my printer. X just wouldnt home properly. What fixed it for me, is actually moving the x endstop at the left as denoted by the origin point of the cartesian plane on repetier(front left of the bed). With this, ive got my firmware home to x-min, all the connectors at ramps follow the same color coding, X_dir set to reverse(-1) same with other axes dir ifby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants