Quotewderoxas Errr, It may not have come across clear enough, but im not suggesting to open up port 80 on your router. That's how I interpreted what you said. thanks for clarifying haha.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteanimooseThe first few prints after I did this were stuck down so hard I thought I would never be able to remove them. Even now, with the tape really worn and scratched up, it's still working well. I had the same feeling with my first ABS print on Glue Stick haha. PLA however I get it to stick to glass really well, and it takes a good amount of force to remove it from the glass if the bed iby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
I found that PLA direct on glass works great for me with the heated bed. Since PLA is such lower temp on the bed, I am just leaving the bed on between prints since 55C wont burn me and cuts down the time for heating. I just had to cancel a print from work because the Hatchbox currently in my printer keeps comming unstuck. I am going to scrape off all the glue stick and apply a fresh layer, and tuby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
@ejnelson Yeah I was just going to wire it to the fan pins for control, if that doesnt work I was just going to include a hardware switch to the power supply. @JoeH Cool Design! Yeah I think you would have a lot better luck printing something like that in ABS. Some Filament information as well: I have tried out 3 brand of filament so far. Folger Tech PLA (decent tolerances +- 0.03mm) , SainSmaby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you checked to make sure the extruder didnt strip the filament? I assume you checked this, but it doesn't seem clogged to me if it is oozing? maybe the PTFE tubing is clogged? Heating PLA too hot will cause it to expand further up the hot end inside the PTFE tubing and it jams.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas If you aren't up for tinkering haproxy on the pi, then port forwarding on your router might be easier. Forward a port of your choice to pi's ip:80. This is exactly what people should NOT be doing. Yes it will work, but your also putting your printer out there on the default port for websites, so when that guy in china hits your ip when he is running a long term scan on his server aby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteawmyhr @mel0n: is there a guide for how you are using Octoprint with the Folger? Did you replace the Mega? @all: Hi, been lurking a few weeks; just got my kit today! Now my boy and I gotta put it together... There are a lot of guides out there, but none for my specific methods. I am a very experienced linux user/software developer so I know how I want things to work. But for how its wiredby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
The heated bed will warp when it heats anyways. Just my 2 cents.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Cura, the prints come out much more precise, faster, and in general I haven't had much luck with slic3r. I pretty much referenced tom's guide for a couple things, but in general just used the octopi image and since I work with embedded linux devices(mostly variants of the raspberry pi, but much more powerful and expensive) all day at work and have a lot of raspberry pi experience, I did most ofby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Got my Printer running on Octoprint/Octopi. Being an Embeded/Embeded Linux Software engineer, I had to of course tweak the crap out of it until it worked flawlessly and can be accessed from anywhere in the world but with a lot of added security measures. I think this is the way to go. I can start a print in the morning when I get up, take a shower and get redy for work, and check to make sure theby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Well whats between the driver and the wheels of the car. We have the thermistor, the ramps, the arduino, firmware, then the software. So the problem has to lie in one of those things, the easiest to test being software which is why I suggested it first. If you have changed to a different/newer version of marlin make sure your thermisor settings are correct. Once you rule out software then move oby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotego_gn So I fixed my X axis problem by moving the endstop pins to Xmax on the RAMPS board. Only to run into another strange problem that didn't happen before. I'm having a problem with the extruder.It worked fine before. The temperature display on Repetier is behaving strangely. I don't know what the heck is going on. It starts off at 12degC , which is strange, because that's not the roomby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
that's unfortunate. I have been contemplating a borosillicate glass plate. But I am not sure if I want to go with inductive auto leveling, or capacitive. Capacitive seems so much better because it works with glass, and I have a really good time printing PLA on glass. ABS however, I just put on my first roll last night. Printed a couple small things directly on glass no problems, so I set up a 6by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] Cilicon, as your oil must be vegetal nature and not a petroleum distillate like most oils. I've even tried degreasser in wolnut oil to get right viscosity, again beware of add up oil, it's dries after time, so wd40 degrease, run dry if you think the plastic parts will fail first. ) Silicon lubricant is good stuff. not to worried about vegetable oil or petroleum in siby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas By the way, should you go for auto bed levelling, you have to consider the additional wear that it woud impose on your m5 threaded rods and its nuts. Ive also read some feedback that an anti backlash mechanism for z is necessary, but i never really get the reason why. As for my kit, i had some acetal (delrin) plastic lying around so i tapped it and substituted it for the nut. I dby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Let me know if removing the zip ties works for you, I don't have any spares so I haven't removed mine yet.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Lookin good man! Your gunna want to fine tune your z axis and extruder. I can see in your picture that extrusion is off.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAridad Quotemel0n Just curious, is anybody else's printer really loud? Mine has been really loud, and getting progressively louder the more I print with it. Its completely related to the X-Axis and its a really loud vibration. I have tried messing with belt tension to make sure its not too tight, but the sound is still loud...My Y is nice and quiet even during rapid movements that usually haby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quoteanimoose Quotetherippa Did anyone else have a problem with X home? I followed the steps in animoose's blog... physically, my X limit switch is on the right and the Y one is at the back. The X motor connector is reversed compared to the others (red wire to the left). This is exactly as shown in the construction guide. in configuration.h, I have #define INVERT_X_DIR false, andby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehobbes i'm anxiously awaiting for my 2020 prusa to arrive, today. Bought from Folgertech's ebay store and have been looking forward to this all week. I have to say i'm disappointed in the USPS tracking service as it doesn't give me any update other than the day which the label was made. What's the point of a tracking service if all it shows you is when it was shipped and when it arrives? Thiby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Just curious, is anybody else's printer really loud? Mine has been really loud, and getting progressively louder the more I print with it. Its completely related to the X-Axis and its a really loud vibration. I have tried messing with belt tension to make sure its not too tight, but the sound is still loud. If I grab the x axis stepper and hold it firmly, my hand absorbs most of the vibration andby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
I am only double posting because I am not sure if you read my last post or not yet, but I didnt have my printer in front of me at the time of posting. the way mine is set up, looking at the front of the printer, my X endstop is all the way on the right side, and plugged into the X-Max endstop pins (X+ or the second set of pins in from the right side), and in repetier I have it set to max (under pby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Heres a quick how to for your extrusion Works great for me, I still believe yout z-axis is off. Mine curls up when it oozes but thats a property of PLA so if thats what your using thats normal. I would play with your temps on some small cubes and see if you can get some improvement there as well. If your getting the curling up while printing I say that your x axis is too far up and possibly temby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Has anyone tried running the printer at faster speeds than the ones in the default Slic3r config supplied by Folger? (For example, 40mm/s for perimeters). Any risks in doing so? Yes, but then my retraction settings were off. Also I haven't had a successful print with Slic3r, but I havent really tried to fix it. I found on my first print it came out pretty mehh with slicer, changedby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Working on wiring now and I am to the point where they ask you to connect the heated bed and hot end thermistors. The instructions say to attach the molex connector to them both yourself. Mine has the connector already on the heated bed thermistor but the hot end is bare and they didn't send any loose molex connectors. How did everyone else's kit come? Mine was missing too, thougby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotematthew900 I bought this kit because I wanted something where someone else already figured out all the details and all I needed to do was the technical assembly work. Sounds like you shouldn't have bought the cheapest kit on the market then Plenty of companies sell complete start to finish kits with guides and somewhat polished firmware/software. Printrbot is a good example. Difference iby mel0n - Reprappers
wut......... ?by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose I tried out mel0n's fan shroud this evening and got a nice print of a 0.5mm thin wall calibration object. I think it's too early to tell if this was luck or due to the cooling (especially since the weather today is a bit weird). There's definitely less bowing and layer separation than previous times I've tried this, though I've changed many other parameters since. Pics of the objectby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekn4ud Your blog was a major factor in me making up my mind to purchase the 2020. I like his blog too, I am currently in the process of setting up my own blog and youtube channel. Been working on a nice maker/hacker workbench and the 3d printer is the first of many projects to come. It really seemed like the best first project as I can make parts for future projects easily. I hope you eby mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants
Nope, as you can see in my original build pictures, it blows in I never took the print head assembly apart prior to taking those pictures, so thats the way it was oriented when it arrived. I think there are recessed screw holes on the intake side for the fan to mount to the heatsink/motor.by mel0n - Prusa i3 and variants