I wonder who is running FT, or at least their components department. From what I have been seeing on this thread recently, It seems the parts have gotten worse than how they were back when I bought my printer.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix You guys are using a 8x8 sheet of glass for the print bed right? How thick is it? Im assuming 1/2 inch or less would be OK? I am using a 8x8 aluminum plateby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethebabymaker I searched around a bit, and saw some (couldn't find many posts) also had some questions with the y carriage assembly. I guess my question is pretty simple, is the bed supposed to glide smoothly without resistance along the rails or should there be a little bit of friction? i just finished putting the frame and bed on, but there is some resistance when sliding the bed back andby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Well I can't attach the extruder to the 3d printed part... The holes arent lined up and I may have stripped the motor a bit. Am I screwed? The holes on my X carriage did not line up either. What I had to do is hold the motor as far away from the X carriage as I could while having the screws in all the way into the carriage, and then work the motor towards the carriage by screwing thby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Am I supposed to cut the 2 meter belt in half? It doesn't say in the instructions... It just calls for a 1 meter belt. Also I didn't see anything in the build blog. Just don't want to mess up the parts! Thanks! Sam When I built mine, I just connected the entire belt to one side of the X carriage, and then fed it around to the other side so that I knew where to cut to have a properby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenightpanda2810 Anyone know if these will work with the rest of the out of box parts? The bushing should fit fine since it was made of the FT i3. The holes on the X carriage for the extruder should be at the proper distance apart, but the spaces for the bearings may not be. I would suggest importing the STLs into a cad programs that can import them and take some measurement to be sure.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJustAGuy I gotta tell ya Mach. Yer good. That was it. I had already calculated the proper extruder multiplier for my setup (113) but hadn't put it in my new profile yet. Thanks! Sam QuoteMach QuoteJustAGuy What do you see here? Looks like under extrusion due to the extrusion multiplier being to low. Not sure if that is the problem, but considering that the second layer looks like itby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJustAGuy Looking for some help troubleshooting my printing. I've attached a photo of the underside of the first 2 layers of a 20mm test cube. This is PLA extruded at 200C and a bed temp of 60 just because I've had trouble getting PLA to stick without heat. Layer Height 0.2 mm First Layer 0.35 mm Perimeters 20 mm/sec solid infill 20 mm/sec. What do you see here? Looks like under extrusby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenobrakes I have a question, if we heat the bed to get the parts to stick then we blow a fan on the part as we print to cool it couldn't we turn the heat off after the part is well underway ? The heated bed keeps the bottom layers from warping and cooling too much during the print, which would cause the print to kinda "peel" off if the bed. The job of a fan blowing on a part is to only coolby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZeegzeigler QuoteMach QuoteZeegzeigler QuoteMach QuoteZeegzeigler QuoteZeegzeigler Move your X and Y endstop connector one place to the left on the ramps board. The printer will not move until you homes it. If the endstops are not setup properly, the printer will hit them, and then keep trying to move in that direction since it will never get the signal to stop. If you ever want to move youby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenobrakes Reflashed it shows them open but nothing when closed ? I sure would like to print something ! Maybe a bad RAMPS I will send an email to FT, it's a new build. I would double check to make sure your endstops are non plugged in backwards on the ramps, green wire should be downwards. Otherwise, yeah it is probably the ramps or the arduino.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenobrakes No joy, tried with all tripped as well. Thanks by the way. No problem Not sure what could be wrong. The arduino should always send back a report after entering the command. Maybe trying reflashing marlin to see if it helpsby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenobrakes Yes I can manually move everything, do they all need to be triggered to get the report ? no. Try resending the commandby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenobrakes Manually pressing the stop and sending M119 does nothing, no report ? Is your arduino connecting with repetier?by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenobrakes M119 shows all endstops open, min and max, Is this correct ? The endstops should show open when untriggered, and triggered when triggered. What does it tell you when you enter the command while manually pressing the endstops.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotesonnylowe QuoteUltiFix QuoteBert3D Quotepeeejayz Quotesonnylowe Quotetherippa So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions? Done Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductivby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJim72 I have a question regarding printing. Still waiting on parts to get this going. My question is this. I have read where people will set their firmware to print at 0.1mm or 0.2mm for better quality. The printer comes with a 0.4mm extruder tip, does this need to be changed to a smaller opening to facilitate printing thinner layers? Thanks, Jim The layer height is something that you chanby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix QuoteBert3D Quotepeeejayz Quotesonnylowe Quotetherippa So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions? Done Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductive as a spare. That's what Iby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZeegzeigler QuoteMach QuoteZeegzeigler QuoteZeegzeigler Move your X and Y endstop connector one place to the left on the ramps board. The printer will not move until you homes it. If the endstops are not setup properly, the printer will hit them, and then keep trying to move in that direction since it will never get the signal to stop. If you ever want to move your endstops, look at the comby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZeegzeigler QuoteMach QuoteZeegzeigler Also i have other issues like sometimes in manual mode it doesn't move a certain way until I home it,and slams into whichever way i send it end. even then sometimes it still wont move. also the nut for the z axis keeps coming out. i should kept my da vinci XD jk...sorta. i would appreciate any help. To have your endstops in the back, right, and bottom,by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZeegzeigler Also i have other issues like sometimes in manual mode it doesn't move a certain way until I home it,and slams into whichever way i send it end. even then sometimes it still wont move. also the nut for the z axis keeps coming out. i should kept my da vinci XD jk...sorta. i would appreciate any help. To have your endstops in the back, right, and bottom, copy and paste this in plaby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZeegzeigler Hey guys,I'm having a few issues. at the moment I just want to get printing so i can figure everything else thats wrong haha. right now my x,z endstops do nothing,but light up also I cannot home. im new to the building aspect. I had a davinci,but wanted a more upgradable printer. here is my config i need help with. thank you in advance. let me know if you need anything else. COby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJustAGuy Hey yall. New guy here, located in Colorado Springs CO. Ordered my i3 2020 kit on December 29th, received on Jan 12th and got first print on Jan 14th. I'm actually quite happy with the kit considering the shipping problems in the beginning. The printer is actually starting to turn out some pretty decent prints and the kids have already started sending me links to cases for their pby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotechking I've ordered the Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3 Full Aluminum 3D Printer Kit but the basement I want to put it in is fairly cool basement. In reading the forums, it sounds like temperature is fairly important for build quality so I want to build a cover for the printer (also to help keep little kids fingers out). Has anybody run across any plans (or laser cut schematics) for buildby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose QuoteMach Quoteanimoose Right now I am thinking about building a CoreXY printer from scratch for the same reason of interest in the process of building it, and I would not have considered that if I hadn't learned so much by building and modifying the Folger. Did I hear someone say Corexy printer? I was recently in the process of making a custom one myself. I finished designing anby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Right now I am thinking about building a CoreXY printer from scratch for the same reason of interest in the process of building it, and I would not have considered that if I hadn't learned so much by building and modifying the Folger. Did I hear someone say Corexy printer? I was recently in the process of making a custom one myself. I finished designing and modeling it, but thenby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterandym I've had my 2020 up and running for a few weeks now. Build almost completely stock for now. I'm having a problem with the temperature control for the bed. No matter what the temp is set for, it just goes full on. I've even turned it off in Slic3r and it still heats up. I'm not sure what to try next and wondering if anyone else has seen this problem. Will the new version of the softwby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 So over last weekend, I completed the upgrade of my hotend from the stock ft hotend to e3d v6 direct drive. After resetting it up and running some test prints, I notice that one of the pla filament that I had good luck with when running through the ft hotend doesn't work so well with the new hot end. Swapped filament brand & left the setting along in s3d, end result I got betterby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecookg Hey. I hope this is my final question post. For some reason, my extruder won't heat up. Then, if I fiddle with the thermoresistor connection (to the ramps board) it will start heating to about 60 degrees, then cool back down again. How do I fix this? Look at the log in repetier and see if it is giving you decoupling errors.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecookg Im having problems with the manual control. Whenever i click "Home" on the X axis, the extruder moves all the way to the left until it hits the side of the printer and it tries to keep going unless i stop it. Also, I tried just to print a cube, and it did the same thing. Any pointers? Does it stop when you home and then manually press the endstop? If it does, does it move in the rightby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants