Quotesonnylowe Is there anyway to speed up the auto-leveling process ? My bed is not flat, it runs out about .010" (.254mm) in the center which is causing problems on larger prints. I leveled my bed with a travel indicator and the four corners are within .002". I can adjust the probe grid size (make it small and in the middle) and that works great for small prints, but again does not for larger oby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow I'm thinking about converting my printer into a CoreXY Who wants to go first? therippa? animoose? haha Unlimited weight on the X axis! It's funny you mention this. The latest issue of Make Magazine was delivered to me yesterday, and the entire issues is literally (in the proper sense) dedicated to 3d printers (both FFF and SLA), filament, laser cutters, CNC machines, etcby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
I hereby rescind any recommendation I may have made for the igus drylin bearings. I ran into two problems: The X-axis was (just) tight enough that it skipped a step during a print. I wasn't expecting this not to happen at some point because the drylin bearings need a little more oomph to get moving, and all it took was upping the voltage to fix, but in retrospect it shows an underlying probleby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty Quotetherippa QuoteUncertainty I got my inductive sensor and hooked it all up and changed my conf file as per Tom's guide on youtube and the instructable. I am using TheRippa's Marlin firmware. As a z-end stop it works fantastically, no problems there. But when I run G29 (auto bed level routine) then the extruder moves until it hits the X or Y-endstop and then nothing (it's suppby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty I got my inductive sensor and hooked it all up and changed my conf file as per Tom's guide on youtube and the instructable. I am using TheRippa's Marlin firmware. As a z-end stop it works fantastically, no problems there. But when I run G29 (auto bed level routine) then the extruder moves until it hits the X or Y-endstop and then nothing (it's supposed to probe 4 points)... I'vby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow Quotetherippa Quotesrcga Quotetherippa I would suggest using an inductive/capactive sensor instead of the servo arm. If you go back about 20 pages or so there's conversation on how I did it, along with the optocoupler circuit (that you may or may not need). Tom's Guide has a good video telling you what it all entails. That requires aluminum bed, though, right? I'm not at thby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesrcga Quotetherippa I would suggest using an inductive/capactive sensor instead of the servo arm. If you go back about 20 pages or so there's conversation on how I did it, along with the optocoupler circuit (that you may or may not need). Tom's Guide has a good video telling you what it all entails. That requires aluminum bed, though, right? I'm not at the point where I have any reasonby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus I'm looking to do the autolevel thing on my printer (I'm going for the moving little arm holding the switch one because I have glass)... It's there a guide for how to do it right like what to change on the firmware and what wire goes where, how long is the arm holding the switch? Thanks! I would suggest using an inductive/capactive sensor instead of the servo arm. If you go back aboby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow Quotemsaeger QuoteYelloow-Snow Quotetherippa Is anyone else starting to have problem printing now that the weather is getting colder? It doesn't get very cold in San Francisco, but my printer is right next to a window and I've been having warping/layer separation issues. It may be time to resurrect the idea of building an enclosure... Nope tho its still warm in Louisiana. thaby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
I finally got around to swapping out the LM8UU's with igus Drylin bushings today. What a difference in noise (not that there was much before). I'll post a video soon.by therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Also, if anyone is interested in that extruder I posted earlier -by therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTaylor Hey everyone! I am looking at purchasing a 3d printer and the Folgertech ones popped out as some very affordable options. I started researching and have found good and bad things said about them. I see that these forumns are used quite a lot which is definitely a good sign. I really want to learn about how they work firsthand and so am looking at kits and the like. I am very new to 3Dby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotetherippa So I'm thinking about switching back to direct drive so it's easier to swap filaments and I don't get the minor drip problem I have when autolevel is running. Anyone interested in a direct drive extruder that can handle flexible filament and uses an E3D V6? Looks pretty. One thing I'd like to see on a direct drive extruder is making the filament hole large enoughby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
So I'm thinking about switching back to direct drive so it's easier to swap filaments and I don't get the minor drip problem I have when autolevel is running. Anyone interested in a direct drive extruder that can handle flexible filament and uses an E3D V6?by therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow I ordered a new hot end. Going to do Bowden but i want to do something different. I want to mount the extruder right above the hot end on the top rail. Reduce the distance and keep the weight low on the X axis. It will feed it straight down. hmmm Why hasent anyone else done this? Also... after hours and hours of work here is my S3D starting script. I unchecked "Wait for temp tby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotetherippa Is anyone else starting to have problem printing now that the weather is getting colder? It doesn't get very cold in San Francisco, but my printer is right next to a window and I've been having warping/layer separation issues. It may be time to resurrect the idea of building an enclosure... Oddly enough, I have noticed this recently, though I also started a new rollby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Is anyone else starting to have problem printing now that the weather is getting colder? It doesn't get very cold in San Francisco, but my printer is right next to a window and I've been having warping/layer separation issues. It may be time to resurrect the idea of building an enclosure...by therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow So.... what a night. I made it all pretty to only plug it back in and 1 Z motor not work. Ordered new parts only to wake up and check the wires on the cable were cut. All fixed. Auto leveling question. My bed is 220 x 220 b/c i can use the full bed. (No glass) I run G0 X0 Y0. I then run G29 for auto leveling. Then sensor goes straight down no matter what I put in #defineby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow Few things. 1. I received my auto leveling sensor. Tried to build the circuit that was posted here but failed. Instead I used what Tom recommended with 2 resistors. Not as good but works. 2. Had to use Therippa's personal settings to get auto leveling to work even after using Notepad++ to compare everything. I then took his config and put in all my settings. 3. Moved x to the lby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Second print off the printer. My daughter was over the moon when she saw it. I only have two datapoints, but already I would say the prints off of my $270 FolgerTech printer rival the quality of prints I get from the $2500 Ultimaker 2 we have at the office. Your printer appears to be very dialed inby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Quotetjnamtiw Congrats!!!! That's great! I see you mastered the 'higher end' LCD screen. I also see you put the X stop on the left and Z on the right. I'll do that on my second one! I don't see any reason right now to change wiring since everything is working great for me too. KNOCK ON WOOD. Good job. That little girl will keep you busy making things for her. Next comes aby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetwigtree Hi, I recently got a RepRapDiscount Smart Controller board, and it kind of works. The info screen when first powering it on works fine, but after scrolling up and down bunch of weird symbols pop up on the screen. Also, when my Arduino only turns on when I plug it in through USB and not just from the power supply. Could this be affecting it? Also noticed a short between two of the piby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack Quotetherippa Quotemsaeger Quotewatlooazn Guys I really need help. First time builder, half way into building the printer BUT I CANNOT find a way to tighten the m3 nyloc nuts! What tool should I use? Please be precise. Pliers? Ive been trying really hard with pliers but they never get screwed in by me. How did you guys tighten the nut here? And how did you tighten the nut hereby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quotewatlooazn Guys I really need help. First time builder, half way into building the printer BUT I CANNOT find a way to tighten the m3 nyloc nuts! What tool should I use? Please be precise. Pliers? Ive been trying really hard with pliers but they never get screwed in by me. How did you guys tighten the nut here? And how did you tighten the nut here? Also for this picture, isby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D QuoteBryg63 My extruder was running the wrong direction on initial start up. I changed the E0 to true from false in config.h to fix that problem as opposed to turning the cables around. Hope that helps... #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false #define INVERT_Z_DIR trueby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty Hi all, Last time I posted on this thread I was probably on page 10 or so. I had built the printer successfully and then didn't really use it. I hooked everything back up a couple days ago and started printing a whole bunch of tests and cubes. I notice that my print surface gets rough and has some gaps on the infill. I could be wrong but it seems to do this when the machine isby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
And speaking of Simplify3d, they put out a really good print troubleshooting guide today -by therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotewoodknack Quotetherippa QuoteKeary123 therippa in regards to Simplify3D what problems did it solve? I have been using slicer and have had some annoyances, no real Issues. I thought about switching to Cura. What are your thoughts on this? Two things it immediately fixed was waviness on the walls of my calibration cubes, and one corner on them always bulging out. Also S3D is mby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKeary123 therippa in regards to Simplify3D what problems did it solve? I have been using slicer and have had some annoyances, no real Issues. I thought about switching to Cura. What are your thoughts on this? Two things it immediately fixed was waviness on the walls of my calibration cubes, and one corner on them always bulging out.by therippa - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts I'll get your firmware loaded up tomorrow, for sure.. Does Simplify3d come with a pre-configured setting for the Folger? At least maybe with stock parts? I question if half of my issues aren't just settings that are way off that I don't know to change (speed, etc). It seems like the calibration cubes are pretty consistent but once I try to print something bigger, the settingsby therippa - Prusa i3 and variants