Quotedavidf01 So I took my extruder apart and checked to make sure everything looked like there was no damage. It looked good. I adjusted the Vref down to about 65 and the extruder motor starts jerking back and forth when it is trying to feed the filament, is that normal? I did a test and extruded 50mm of filament and it extruded about 40mm so I'm about 10mm off so far. I also did a test printby tjnamtiw - Delta Machines
Quotebuilt350camaro I have a silly question. When I home everything and then move my Y axis a negative amount it moves the bed toward the front. is that intended? The endstop is at the back like it is built. Everything seems to print fine just checking to see. There are no silly questions at this point, B350C. Are you using the LCD screen add-on to move and home? When I use mine, it won't lby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] Thanks for the help guys I have my print centered now. Though my Y axis seems to have changed - and + directions and I have no clue why. My X axis stop was also not in the right spot. But it is centered now I need to change the print size down to 180x180 and I am also going to do a rework of my bed. The bas plate is off level I think and I have a new black PCB heaterby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
I spent this morning dialing in the extruder rate AGAIN after taking apart my feeder and removing the interference between the feed gear and the extruder motor endbell. I am now extruding exactly 100mm when I tell it to and the parts look great HOWEVER to do this, my Estep for the extruder is all the way down to 26!!!!! There must be somewhere else perhaps in the configuration file where somethby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
That's great, rippa! Is that cube on thingaverse? I see so many different ones, I don't know which one to use. I see you like Harbor Freight too. I needed an 8" caliper and didn't want to pay Starrett..................by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekn4ud [email protected] Can anyone shed some light on how I center my bed better? It acts like I need to mount the endstop farther back but how? Maybe these pictures will help: It looks like your end stop is hitting the bed and not the bearing retainer under the bed. I t should be laying almost flat. Also the mount is on backwards. When it is correct the switch is centered overby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack I feel like a mad scientist in his office with the door closed printing stuff off... The machine has a little mid evil tune it plays while it prints...... MAAAWWW HAAAAA HAAAA...... Yes Egor...... LOL I know how you feel! I'm madly going through thingiverse finding things to print. Gotta use up that PLA before it goes bad!!!!!! Next up after I mount my LCD screen is a betby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, after two days of pulling what's left of my hair out, I think I finally solved my inconsistent filament feed rate. I had the dreaded click-click-click sound today while feeding, which could mean a number of things, from what I've read. Anything from 'wet' PLA, to not enough power to the extruder motor, to misalignment of the filament into the hot end, to not enough heat in the hot end, adby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
The kind folks at FT came through today in the mail with not only a new thermistor, which was bad, but an ENTIRE NEW HOT END! I'm up and running at last! As an easy project to wow the Mrs. I printed a couple of snowflakes at various scales. They all came out looking good BUT 'overstuffed' so I knew I needed to check my extruder feed rate. I followed along with Tom on his YT video . Usinby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
In Repetier, you can set where you want the print table to go after the part is done. No special coding needed.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuilt350camaro Mine was actually broke where it goes into the extruder block the first time. When they crimped the metal tube to hold it they also cut the wires, glad I have a good set of helping hands and a magnify glass to solder that back. I will check the plug as well since one of my endstop wires was that way. The melting point of most solders starts at about 365 degrees,F which justby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuilt350camaro Mine was actually broke where it goes into the extruder block the first time. When they crimped the metal tube to hold it they also cut the wires, glad I have a good set of helping hands and a magnify glass to solder that back. I will check the plug as well since one of my endstop wires was that way. EXACTLY what happened to mine!by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuilt350camaro I have been printing for a couple of days with my 2020 and it has been great, but now I have ran into an error I cant seem to figure out. I printed the benchy boat thing and it was fine so I was going to print a extruder tip shroud and I keep getting MINTEMP error and it kills the print. The first time it done it it was about 75 percent done with the print, then I tried agaiby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw My patience is wearing thin! That error message has to do with the hot end. Sure enough, I see 0.0C on the hot end. Also it registered open on my meter. Under a magnifying glass, I can see that one of the wires running to the thermistor is about 1/8" away from the thermistor! Back to emailing FT to get more parts! Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I have to praise the crap out of Folger Tech!by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecmenchion Guys how critical is the alignment of the top (z) stepper motors? On the bottom I have like 14" from outside to outside. On the top by the motors the rods are 14 and 1/16th. If I try to squeeze them do they are same distance then z gets rough and doesn't slide nice. I noticed that the top rod on the left side top of x idler mount is very tight and may not be going all the way in.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTenny Ok I got it fixed. So if you keep the cables wired as they are in the manual this will fix it: Change the following in configuration.h #define INVERT_X_DIR true to #define INVERT_X_DIR false #define X_HOME_DIR -1 to #define X_HOME_DIR 1 With the printer off PHYSICALLY move the x-axis stopper to the left one set of pins (this makes it so it's the x max instead of x-min) Now if yoby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
My patience is wearing thin! That error message has to do with the hot end. Sure enough, I see 0.0C on the hot end. Also it registered open on my meter. Under a magnifying glass, I can see that one of the wires running to the thermistor is about 1/8" away from the thermistor! Back to emailing FT to get more parts! Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack Ok X axis issue resolved. Ok if your like me and put the printer together by the book, then your probably going to have and issue with your x axis moving just a little and in the wrong direction. Im a noobie to all this and it took me awhile to figure all this out and a lot of reading. Hopefully this will save some people some time. HOW I GOT THE X AXIS WORKING THE RIGHT WAY. 1.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, they have 30K ohm R1 resistors, which is the Stepstick modification to limit current to 1.5 amps! The max VREF should be 1.25V.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack Quotetjnamtiw Sorry to be bugging you all but I'm about to throw the electrons to my 2020 and I have a question about the pots on the polo drivers. I wanted to turn them all down to zero to start but I just found out there is no stop when turning counter clockwise! How do you know what position is MINIMUM? I can, I believe, see a wiper close to the top pin when the flat is facinby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry to be bugging you all but I'm about to throw the electrons to my 2020 and I have a question about the pots on the polo drivers. I wanted to turn them all down to zero to start but I just found out there is no stop when turning counter clockwise! How do you know what position is MINIMUM? I can, I believe, see a wiper close to the top pin when the flat is facing down. All pots came with tby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
A quick question to those who have installed the FT 2004 smart LCD controller. I don't find any instructions for modifying the config and pin files in the FT downloads. I did find this YT video which mentions I hadn''t seen anyone else talk about enabling EEPROM SETTINGS and EEPROM CHITCHAT before. Also he doesn't talk about pin.h either although I have found other places where one line is 'by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack im in the same boat. Thats why I decided to take the leap and buy s3d. I didnt want to learn 3 different types of software to print when I know nothing about printing at all! I just took the plunge and I am not regretting it at all. Im having a ball printing and my machine still needs to be better calibrated. upload pic img host[/url screenshot windows 7 That's my first projectby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuilt350camaro Ok what kind of voltage should I see on both sides of that? I am getting .2 of a volt if I go from one side to the other. I was getting zero so I removed it from the board and jumped the pads with a piece of wire (board already doesn't work so what it is going to hurt) if a fuse isn't blown and it's in the circuit, you should see ZERO volts across it. If it's blown, you shby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDavewerld Is anyone else seeing issues with the crimp connections in the harnesses? I had one wire in the endstop harness that was crimped onto an unstripped wire, how it occassionally made contact is a mystery to me. I'm also seeing an issue on the thermistors, but I don't have any more crimps, I may just solder those connections to the board. I can't get any further on the xaxis issue, beby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Another thing that I notice when I look at the fit of the bearings into the X carriage is that the length of the opening is much shorter than the length of the bearing. No amount of pushing will get them in there! Back to the Dremel! I also found that the spacing between the two holes in the X carriage used to mount the hot end are too close together. My 40 years of plastics processing experiby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa The bearings that Folgertech provides are crap, my x carriage made so much noise the neighbor below me complained about it. I bought some new bearings here - . Conveniently they come with some other bearings I've used for upgrades (like my bowden extruder), and are quieter. I also printed a new x carriage that uses 4 bearings - . The company I bought the bearings from, Leap 3dby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotetjnamtiw I'm moving right along on my assembly of my 2020. I'm up to mounting the X carriage onto the vertical frame. I just don't like the feel and sound of these bearings on the chrome rods! Herky Jerky best describes it.. The Y carriage moves easily now that I have the one bearing side 'semi-floating' but still very noisy, probably because of the metal plate vibrating anby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm moving right along on my assembly of my 2020. I'm up to mounting the X carriage onto the vertical frame. I just don't like the feel and sound of these bearings on the chrome rods! Herky Jerky best describes it.. The Y carriage moves easily now that I have the one bearing side 'semi-floating' but still very noisy, probably because of the metal plate vibrating and nothing to dampen it. Theby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteplatinum16 Ya I got tools and licenced auto machanic I just don't know if I should be drilling recesses n wat not but all good I grabbed some m5x10mm from my works supplier and it was perfect I guess I'm just not as confident with this printer as I am with other people's cars lmao Jk I know what you mean! Our next step was to install the bearings for the Y platform. I jotted down thesby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants