Why risk screwing up your heater for $12? This is some heavy duty glass that conducts well. You can spend even less by finding a mirror at one of the WalMarts of the world or get a piece of glass cut at Home Depot! You'll be glad you did. Then throw the painter's tape away and get a can of the cheapest hair spray you can find. Heat the bed to 70 and you will have no problems. No raft or bby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Up and printing! Thanks for all the help. Only problem I am have is the layers on the print seem to separate making large cracks the part. What kind of problem causes this? I can send photos if needed. 1: Did you level the bed to the nozzle in all four corners? 0.1 mm or 0.004" clearance when in the Z = 0 position using your Z endstop? 2: Did you calibrate your extruder and cby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril Well I think my y motor is kind of dead. When I unplug it and turn it by hand, it sometimes gets stuck and I have to apply a lot of force to make it pass this hard point. But this is random... I notice that because when moving the bed by hand it sometimes get stuck in the middle of its course. During a y movement I also notice that the motor skips steps when he encounter a such hard spby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Thanks guys, lot of good information. Can't wait to try some more. Death in the family early yesterday morning an d I'll be out of state for a couple days. I will revisit this then and sure I will have more questions. One question I have now was setting the Z height. Not sure what exactly controls the height. Setting a .0040 inch height with the endstop could take some time. Is tby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotetjnamtiw QuoteWilberMaker Is there any magic trick to getting the filament to stick to the bed? I'm pretty sure it is level. Might have a question about the zero height of Z. I have the tip almost touching the glass. What else might I check? ''Might have a question about the zero height of Z" >>> This is the PRIMARY insurance for the best chance of bed adhesion. Youby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Is there any magic trick to getting the filament to stick to the bed? I'm pretty sure it is level. Might have a question about the zero height of Z. I have the tip almost touching the glass. What else might I check? ''Might have a question about the zero height of Z" >>> This is the PRIMARY insurance for the best chance of bed adhesion. You just can't be 'pretty sure'by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotestephenrc QuoteChipo ERROR MESSAGE:Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 . In configuration_adv.h increase WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD. Thanks! I'll give it a try! Sounds about right! Especially if I am REstarting and my hot end has been dropping rapidly. Now I suddenly tell it to go to 240 and it's on the downward curve, so it's going to take more than the stock 16 seconds to incrby tjnamtiw - Printing
I also get this error message and processor lock up occasionally on an initial start up. I've been running for about 7 months now with the same wiring and same thermistor setting so that's not the problem. I believe it has more to do with a temperature band that MARLIN wants to see as heating progresses. Just don't know yet where to look. Two searches show this the only one with this problemby tjnamtiw - Printing
QuoteMindforrest HELP! I just put together my Prussa, and I set it all up except for one major problem: the Z axis won't move at all. I checked everything, its built to the instructions, but it won't move. I have been using the manual control on Repetier, and everything else works, (Fan, nozzle, heated bed, X/Y axis) and I probably am missing a main step or something dumb, but I obviously can't pby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebenjaminlbarba Yes that's good advice. I definitely plan on printing a few new parts - most notably, the carriage needs an upgrade as you mention. However, at the moment my most pressing issue is the bad X output pins that are preventing any motor that are connected to them from turning/rotating as they should. For instance, the Y axis slides really well yet when connected to the X outpby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebenjaminlbarba @tjnamtiw The X output pins have never worked (so yes, a startup issue). The X head assembly won't slide if tilted. With that said, the bearings on the X head assembly run pretty smoothly and will work fine as long as they are plugged into another set of output pins. . Without the belt being on the stepper motor, the extruder head assembly should EASILY slide from side to sby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Has your X axis ever worked or is this a start up situation? Can you take the belt off of the stepper motor and, when you tilt the machine, does the X head assembly slide from side to side easily?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril Bad news for me. Hot end thermistor is busted (actually broken because looks like it has been tight too much And fan also not working... I will try to reach them in order to get replacement parts. Also I had hard time to make fit the bearing to the plastic parts. I had to cut them a bit to make them fit (even by pushing really hard...). Yes, that was a very big problem for me too 6by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker What would cause my Z steppers to make loud growling noise while jogging? The .1 and 1 jog seem fine but any larger movement make loud noise and will even lock up some time. What causes this? If it was one of my brushless RC motors I would say it was a timing issue, same noise. Also, I connected the z stepper to the x driver and and the stepper motor seems to work fine. Mine madby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterojowe 1) this is the FOLGER TECH 2020 PRUSA i3 *OFFICIAL THREAD*.....I assumed it was implied that I have built the Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3....but for clarification....I have the Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3...from Folger Tech....The 2020 model, with the chrome rods and metal square frame....the Prusa i3....lol 2) STEP 6 of the Configuration PDF.... of the Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3 officiaby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
'''''when I tried uploading the config files through Slic3r, it crashes Slic3r every time'''' Never said you tried to 'fire up' the printer. I said ""building"". I use the stand alone version of Cura to slice projects and make the GCode but it won't let you control the machine. I can't help you with your OS x MAC You never did say what machine you are building..by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterojowe I just received my kit yesterday, stayed up until 3:30 am building everything. About 9 hours straight. I waited until this morning to recheck the wiring and fire her up. Sadly all didn't go as planned and it looks like the RAMPS and Arduino are both bad?! Sad to say the least....sucks putting in all that work overnight to be left staring at this thing. Honestly though, quite a thing iby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
If the original printer was set up like that, and now the fan is left on, obviously it was learned that this would result in extruder clogs. It's called progress. Just leave the fan on and move on.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA Quotetjnamtiw QuoteDaveA BLTouch Users: Has anyone else had an issue where the pin will remain retracted after a print is finished and the printer is turned off over night? I've had this happen several times and if I forget about pulling down on the pin the next G28 will crash the nozzle into the glass. I've cleaned the pin several times but I really assume the issue is inside the tby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA BLTouch Users: Has anyone else had an issue where the pin will remain retracted after a print is finished and the printer is turned off over night? I've had this happen several times and if I forget about pulling down on the pin the next G28 will crash the nozzle into the glass. I've cleaned the pin several times but I really assume the issue is inside the touch. Once I pull the piby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Also, don't ASSUME that the Z height is correct once you set it. Run anything, stop it after the skirt has printed and measure the height of the skirt. Is it 0.1 (zero set point) plus your layer height or is it higher. Often you have to fine tune the zero position.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSgtRauksauff Quotetjnamtiw Did you do an Extrusion Calibration Test before doing the cube to set your multiplier? Did you run your Benchy at the same speed as you ran the test cube? 220 is awfully high for PLA. Try it again at 190 and keep the speed down to around 40. My extrusion stepper calibration was similar to Triffid Hunter's, but instead of measuring from the body up, I measuredby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSgtRauksauff finally printed some things! Did the 40x10 print cube, measured thh walls, set the extrusion multiplier to .94, printed again, it came out right, so then I printed a Benchy. Wasn't thinking ahead, and was still using the sample filament sent by Folgertech, and started the print. So, I just stuck some Hatchbox black in the hole when the sample ran out. Using Pronterface/Slic3r,by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTreito I wouldn't use any system which touches the bed with the hot nozzle. These systems are unsuitable for some print surfaces and also for a dual nozzle setup. Capacitve proximity switches may depend on (bed) temperatures and humidity. BLTouch is not directly supported by my controller board. I have a similiar optical sensor like the one from PiBot except I get a direct value for a heightby tjnamtiw - General
Quoteflatlander Yep, the stock blade connectors seem to corrode vary easily leading to catastrophic failure; heat-resistance ramp-up. I wonder if Noalox would be helpful. I should take an eraser to the connectors and add some dielectric grease . Your direct solder should do it, you could put an inline resister on there too. I have most of the parts to get the heat bed power off the ramps boby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts What printing speed did you use? I recently found that knob to tweak. 40 mm/sec for all speeds. I have no fan blowing on the part either, which might help.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelemgandi Wow that is pretty nice. I've been trying to get a good 3d benchy out of natural ABS, but so far they're pretty rough. I'm still tweaking my parameters. Went to a printer meet-up not long ago and watched someone's Lulzbot Mini print out a beautiful one with almost no adjustment. OTOH, that machine costs about 4X the Folgertech kit and you don't get the entertainment of making it wby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
1) It makes no difference which way you hook up the wires since DC current doesn't care which way it flows through a resistor. That's not the cause of your problem. 2) Do not use those charred connectors!! They are dangerous! You probably either tinned your wires before you inserted them, which is a no-no according to electrical safe practice (although many do it) or you didn't tighten down tby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
After 6 months of printing EVERYTHING under the sun for the Grand kids and the 'boss', I finally got around to printing a Benchy. Used 0.3 layer height, 190 degrees, Hatchbox brown PLA, 0.85 extrusion multiplier to give me single wall of 0.48 mm as called for in the GCode. Looks pretty good!by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesungod3k i printed most prints now on a mirror which worked surpringly well. however if I think about all post that I read about bed adhesion the variance it really high. have you experience with normal glass for a comparison? No, I read every post in this thread and made up my mind to go straight to the boro and haven't regretted it. It works so why change?by tjnamtiw - Reprappers