Quoteelkayem Quotemarc2912 So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting theby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support ofby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Quotemarkts Quotemarkts Quotesonnylowe As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!? E3D now offersby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotemarkts Quotemarkts Quotesonnylowe As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!? E3D now offeby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D QuoteUltiFix So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing? No, the servo method has a servo mounted on the print head, with an arm attached and anby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix QuoteBert3D QuoteUltiFix Can anybody post a pic or put it on the wikia, of where the x endstop goes? Preferably a pic of were on the left? Thanks! Sam I think this is the endstop mount I'm currently using: Left X-endstop mount for Folger Tech 2020 i3 There is a photo on the thing page: I don't have the printer kit yet, but I was looking at the instruction manual and the x endstopby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenobrakes I have checked the boards but don't see anything. I am a complete noob with Arduino and trying to wrap my head around the config. I have built 2 cnc routers and a laser cutter from scratch but they run with Mach software. I guess I need to get new boards and try again. Thanks If this is a new printer reach out to folgertech, they know they have bad ramps boards.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe QuoteBert3D Has anyone tried using one of these aluminum heated build plates with a prox sensor and glass? I've got a BLTouch on order, but if it doesn't work out, I'm wondering if this would work? In theory, if the BLTouch is accurate as they claim, it should be better, because it is measuring the distance to the glass surface. Even if the glass is uneven or not sitting flatby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBoffster LCD ENCODER (KNOB/BUTTON) FIX I found that the encoder was operating backwards for me (having to turn it anti-clockwise instead of clockwise) and also I didn't have fine control as it would jump 4 steps at a time (e.g. using the LCD display to move the X axis 1mm would actually move it 4mm for each click of the encoder) The following changes (found online) fixed both issues for meby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Once I get my printer im going to make sure I have ALL of the parts, is there a good BOM I can use? What did you folks do? Thanks! Sam LOL a bom. Cute.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D QuoteUltiFix I can get a duplicator I3 for 350, thats tempting, then I can use that printer to print parts for an old prusa 2 a friend gave me. I'm not so sure the quality of the Monoprice copy will be as good as the real Wanhao Duplicator I3. A real Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 is only $399 directly from them. Monoprice quality is good, and they have good warranty too. I would still sby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMMeyer Hi I have an issue. I got my printer built and everything calibrated (end stops, motor voltage, etc..). I printed a couple little parts; filament temp calibration stack, calibration cube and a few other little things. everything was working great. I was printing a couple parts from an SD card when the raft wasn't sticking to the bed. I canceled the print and was going to hook my comby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been having an issue printing ABS on my 2020. I'm getting warping around the edges even though when laying down the first layer I'm getting good adhesion. The warping starts further into the print when I'm already past a dozen layers in. The print then lifts on the edges. I'm printing on borosilicate glass (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI) and I just can't seem to get past tby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quick question I can't wrap my head around to find an answer yet... On Thingiverse there os an extrusion calibration I'd like to do. From what I understand the standard folgertech is set to a .4mm extruder diameter. I have settings with cura for both .2mm and .3mm heights. When I try to slice the 0.2mm thin wall and slice I get no result. This makes sense since that's smaller than my minimumby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetnm Hi all, First post and new user. Ordered the 2020 is Prusa the other day and while looking for a response from folgertech I found this site. I guess I should have done a bit more research. But I'm still looking forward to this build. Is the best to to contact these through facebook? tnm Don't expect your printer to ship out fast. It'll take a week if not two. Once you get it takeby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJim72 Quotemarc2912 QuoteJim72 Good morning. I finished the build, got the firmware straightened out with your help, all 3 axis home and move properly. I leveled the bed and next tried to get the bed and extruder to heat. The bed heats fine. The extruder never heated, the reading on the LCD without heat was 23, with heat it got to 26 (30 min), I am sure that is radiant heat from the bed whby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJim72 Good morning. I finished the build, got the firmware straightened out with your help, all 3 axis home and move properly. I leveled the bed and next tried to get the bed and extruder to heat. The bed heats fine. The extruder never heated, the reading on the LCD without heat was 23, with heat it got to 26 (30 min), I am sure that is radiant heat from the bed which was at 70 deg C. I aby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotesethmo I am trying to improve my print quality and am not sure where to start. I have calibrated my e-steps for my filament(Inland White PETG). I have printed a .4mm single wall calibration print and it is close to .4mm. I have messed with my stepper driver pots and I think they are turned up high enough, I do not get missed steps and they do not overheat. My setup is beloby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecookg I got that sorta straightened out. Now I have some new problems. First, my print came out squished lengthwise (I was printing a cube but the raft started like a rectangle) AND when I stopped it, I noticed some red LEDs flashing on my ramps board. When inspected closer, I noticed that one (only one) of the transistors (I think it was a transistors) was almost too hot to touch. If the boby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGrouchoDuke I've been mostly a lurker here, but I finally ordered a 2020 kit yesterday. Besides the printer, I also ordered a 12864 LCD, borosilicate glass bed, BuildTak, a set of linear bearings from Misumi, a BLTouch sensor, and some PLA, ABS & PETG filament. I also have a Raspberry Pi that I plan on messing around with Octoprint. I'll probably pick up Simplify3d soon too. Hopefully thby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach Quotemarc2912 Could anyone give me pointer on supports? I'm looking to run a print on something like http://www.thingiverse.com/make:173360 but when I try setting up supports it gives me something like this which obviously is way too much support. I think very minor support for the left hand, maybe the nose and the hat should do it. Any pointers? thanks Use cura. It give much betby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Could anyone give me pointer on supports? I'm looking to run a print on something like http://www.thingiverse.com/make:173360 but when I try setting up supports it gives me something like this which obviously is way too much support. I think very minor support for the left hand, maybe the nose and the hat should do it. Any pointers? thanksby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally got my first print after fixing end stops. Also had to reverse wiring for extruder stepper as it was backwards.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotemarc2912 Quotesonnylowe What do you or would you gain from an enclosed printer? Has anyone here enclosed their FT printer!?!? I saw THIS on Instructables...looks pretty nice, just wondering if it's worth the effort!?!? . From what I read enclosing the printer can lead to more stable prints though some are saying that if the steppers are not dialed in properly it can leadby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe What do you or would you gain from an enclosed printer? Has anyone here enclosed their FT printer!?!? I saw THIS on Instructables...looks pretty nice, just wondering if it's worth the effort!?!? . From what I read enclosing the printer can lead to more stable prints though some are saying that if the steppers are not dialed in properly it can lead to more heating issues and bby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotemarc2912 Anyone try installing a cyclops hot end? on a folgertech yet? Yes, that is what I'm running currently (well sort of). I bought the kit with both the Cyclops and Chimera hot ends. I am currently running the Chimera Hotends because I damaged the Cyclops Hotend (it was my own stupidity). The Cyclops is repaired and ready to reinstall, I just haven't gotten around to it.by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone try installing a cyclops hot end? on a folgertech yet?by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotemarc2912 Hey guys quick question. I'm reading through the thread but only on page 30 so sorry if this is answered somewhere in there. I finished my build (not tested yet) but having built a laser cutter before, I've worked with this kind of setup. I'm hating the bearing we have for x and y axis. Is there an upgrade that people do to change this out or are most people stickiby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys quick question. I'm reading through the thread but only on page 30 so sorry if this is answered somewhere in there. I finished my build (not tested yet) but having built a laser cutter before, I've worked with this kind of setup. I'm hating the bearing we have for x and y axis. Is there an upgrade that people do to change this out or are most people sticking with these?by marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Quotetjnamtiw Quotesonnylowe Quotemarc2912 My 2020 is still packed as it's a Xmas gift. I wanted to get the glass now for the heat bed. Could someone tell me the measurement of the glass piece I'd need. Thanks. I use this ONE...I used to use a 8" x 8" 2mm glass, I like the new glass better I use the same one and it works great! 70C on the bed and a light coat of hairspray andby marc2912 - Prusa i3 and variants