Some thoughts. When you set the gap you put the material thickness in the Z offset for your slicer. This allows the software to know where the bed is. So it doesn't mater how thick the paper is as long as you put the thickness in the slicer. Common paper is generally taken as about 0.15mm thickness so for common folk!!!! its recommended to use paper and put 0.15mm in the offset. (On the assumptioby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
I think your thermistor table has an error in it. The temps and ADC values must be in order. Yours are not in order. ADC 72 and 73 are not in sequence. You also have 914 in twice although 40 degrees is not an area where you are interested. The temperatures are in order so its not a case of changing the order of the rows there is an error in the ADC value verses the temperature. Not sure if 72 shoby MCcarman - General
Interesting pattern. I don't think your issue is the lines in the middle of the run but the lack of them at the ends. If you look closely you will see that the lines at each end are different. For the infill you are specifying a line width of about 140% which I think is higher than the normal rule of thumb that is a max of about 120%. And you have an over lap of 20%. So it looks like you are gettby MCcarman - Printing
Just checked you Amazon link and through to the heater spec and it says its resistance is about 1.5 ohms so at 12V you should get 96wats. A max temp of 80C is very low. If you get different response when you ran it direct from the PSU and got to 96 in 30mins that's about the same as mine. But indicates your Ramps is limiting the current somehow. I don't know much about the Ramps boards so don't kby MCcarman - Printing
What material do you want to print? The large bed machine above states it will only heat to 70C so you are limited to PLA. I believe this is a standard machine with longer travel Y rods, a bigger bed top and bigger shape heater. The larger heater is better for even heating evenly than just using the standard square heater with a longer bed surface. I suspect that if you want to use ABS with a laby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Im no expert but we probably need a bit more info. The SD card is likely to be complicated so lets start with using the PC. In RH what communication settings are you using? I can't remember them all but there is only one tab for them e.g baud rate, port. You should have an option on the machine menu that shows its settings. Can you supply those as well - again baud rate is important. I think itby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
So you plugged the X motor into the extruder socket and it didn't work? If so the problem is on the board and we need some one who knows about the board to help solve it.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Can you measure the bed resistance? If its 1.5ohms then the performance you describe can be expected. Put insulation under the heater so the energy goes into the bed and doesn't heat the air. Cork, corrugated cardboard or wood are useful. Increasing the PSU output wont help. I have 4mm of cork and it still takes 25 mins to get to 100.by MCcarman - Printing
Any electronic system experts on here that can help Reprapper13? My 15A supply is OK for my system. If your bed heater has a resistance of less than 1.5ohms you may have an issue. For a 15A fuse to blow I would expect you had a short on the bed wiring/controller. You may have replaced the board but if there is still a short then you can be causing power loss to the other functions. If it persistsby MCcarman - General
That looks like a good buy. 20amp PSU is definitely good. Gives you options on the heated bed and second extruder. The hot bed says 150w and good for 105 degrees but I would like to know if you actually manage that. The 150w bed means its only 1 ohm resistance and pulling 12 amps which seems high for normal control boards. And this looks to have a Metz/Lolu (whatever) board so I am a bit surpriseby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
The bed temperature is only sufficient for PLA. It doesn't state/show what control board is being used. Doesn't list the glass on the bed as included. Id pay a bit more for a heated bed capable of over 100 for ABS and that probably means it wont have the sanginololo board as I think the drivers on that are current limited to 8amps. If you are just starting I wouldn't worry about the frame materiaby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Hmm. If it was me I would:- Check the alignment of the X rods (extruder). If the Y rods are sloping front to back and the X rods are sloping left to right you get compounding measurements in the corners. Its probably best to do the corners on the Y rod with the 2 bearings on first. I will assume this is the one nearest the home position. If not you may need to go round the loop a few times. Adjusby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Just thinking... Take a look at where the bearing are relative to your problem corner. Look for bends in the rails. Check the height of the carriage to the rails in the 4 corners to see if the bearings are at different heights. Since they are linear they want to align with the rails so if one of the pair of bearings has a different height to the other it may twist the carriage.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
If its 330ohms then that is the problem. Bit odd that your read that number. Either return under warranty or take it apart.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you get any heat?.3.3ohms I see on the web is a value for 24V operation. If you have this then supply 12V you will get half power, about 40watts. If this is what is happening you can check the board is capable of 12v then resolder the wires to the board for 12v operation.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Out of interest - Does your control board already have an SD slot. Is it possible to have 2 and does anyone know how that is handled by the controller?by MCcarman - Printing
Its not clear if the 185 you quote is from the printer/thermistor or from a separate measurement. The printer only has the thermistor as input so if its wrong then it doesn't know the real temperature. If it reports 185 when trying to get to 200 it will leave the hot end on and the real temperature will be way above target and possibly damage the hot end = don't use it until you are happy with thby MCcarman - Printing
Quoterealthor I'll take the risk of cross-posting because my other thread doesn't seem to have too much success ...I'll link my idea here: Now, ideally, without an additional board the pink FSR in the image should have the two wires coming out one in the Z-min and one in the Ground (or whatever the wiring of an FSR is) on the board. In the Kossel FSR Wiki they say that "We use three FSR wiredby MCcarman - General
I don't have experience in this area but does this mean you are bridging with a 0.15 layer thickness? Is that realistic given there is no support?by MCcarman - Printing
If the rest of the print looks ok and its only bridging then its a code issue not the hardware (not temperatures). It actually looks like bridging is turned off and you are just using the residual filament in the hot end. Don't forget that some slicers allow parameters to be either absolute or percentages, Some 0 means default and some 0 means none. I don't think there are any firmware parametersby MCcarman - Printing
Maybe this helps. The head home and print position is referenced to the Z end stop position. You can't drive the head below the end stop. You probably need to lower the z stop. This can be pain on cheap machines as its held on by a couple of screws through slots and the head doesn't move with it. I guess you can :- lower the bed to near its lowest adjustment. Loosen the z stop switch and move itby MCcarman - Printing
I have a new Prusa clone machine with the same conditions. There is no way i can get the Ally bed to 110. I used 110 on a different machine so caried it over but there is no real reason to run that high. The Ally bed is highly conductive and with insulation underneath and on the bed mine takes 25mins to get to 100. PID only activates after you hit the temperature target so don't get distracted byby MCcarman - Printing
I just built a new Prusa clone which came with installed firmware and noticed there is a temperature readout jump from 82c to 95c. I also recently saw a thread somewhere with a similar issue but that person provided their config.H file. In their file one of the tables had the pairs out of sequence. I suspect this is my problem so I am raising this as there seems to be some incorrect config.h settby MCcarman - General