How you getting on DLW. Whats your process for leveling the bed? If your z switch is inthe minimum position (close to the bed) then this should be a hard stop. You level the bed to be lower than this point by about 0.2mm.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
looks like a comms problem to me. I see 2 things going on. The printer is not keeping up with the host. It keeps missing lines and asking for resends. Try reducing the baud rate in the host. . Do you have start/end settings in Repetier. Im wondering if the glitches in the comms are making Repetier think its starting/ending and trying to send the apropriate codes. Theres at least one instance wherby MCcarman - Printing
Also anything jamming the movement. Stray end of the belt or a wire. Also the drive gear on the motor slipping.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
How about a buffer problem in the communication system. SD cards could have different speeds, host programs have a hand shake. Might be baud rate related. Not an area i have any knowledge on.by MCcarman - Printing
Couldn't watch the video but sounds like what happens if not all the steppermotor wires are connected. Found that out when one of mine came loose. Since it didn't move when you swapped motors check the controller board for dry joints, damaged tracks, missing pin (???). Keep an eye on those green connectors for the heaters. They tend to melt. You can improve this by wiring the power direct to thby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
What infill patern are you using? The linear version only sits on the previous layer where it crosses so a lot of the time its bridging. If you try something like honeycomb patern it sits on the previous layer so it should behave like the perimeters. Obviously doesn't address the fundamental issue but may get you usefull prints. I tend to print slower with honeycombe as the rapid changes in direby MCcarman - Printing
Investigate how square the rails are to each other. In particular the Y rail being higher or lower at the rear verse the front. You may have to check/adjust (don't know how you adjust) the X rail. This is not easy to do. Might be easier to use a spirit level so gravity becomes a common reference point.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Think you will find the "OK" doesn't mean it has executed it means the mesage has been read (and stored) OK. The streamer then sends the next message. If there is no OK the streamer does nothing - however there is a timer running and if it doesn't get an OK in the time limit it assumes theres an error and responds accordingly. This can be showing an error message, may resend the message, may tryby MCcarman - General
Just looking for issues. Your in relative positioning - maybee you can't home in relative. You can always load the Gcode in a text editor (notepad etc) and scroll to the end and check the actual code in the file.by MCcarman - Printing
Sounds like you have the motor direction incorrect in firmware/wiring and are just trying to compensate by changing the homing settings.by MCcarman - General
This could be temperature cycling at the hot end. Check the temperature trace although this doesn't always show the issue. Try printing hotter to see if the spacing changes. As stated in other posts we have had reports of the driver failing and causing similar issues.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
We had a thread on here about 2 months ago where similar symptoms turned out to be partial failure of the driver transistor. The result was poor temperature control and the occasional blocking of the nozle. I don't think it showed up on the temperature trace. I think you have to monitor the driver output to see it. Solution was to fit a new driver. The driver transistor doesn't fail open or closeby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
No responses. Check for scaling factors in host software and slicer. When you did the 100mm calibration was that using an LCD controller or host software on a PC. The LCD should feed directly to firmware so OK. There can be scaling factors in host software that wont be applied during a real print. Or your .STL is intended size but the model is scaled in the host or slicer when generating the Gcoby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
What are your print speeds ? Is that honeycombe the infill ? The honeycombe infill creates a lot of jerky movements so it seems sensible to print it slower than rectilinear. If you change to rectelinear infill you can increase the speed. I typically print rectilinear infill faster than perimeters. So you can try using rectilinear infill and printing faster. That reduces the amount of time the filby MCcarman - General
Haven't done it but in Slic3r you can do more complex things by defining volumes of the model. Im sure there will be somethings you can't do but basically you load your model, then import another model, over lay the parts and define specific parameters for where they over lap. the second model is not printed as a part its used as the boundery for the settings. For example :- You want to print a cby MCcarman - General
If you compare 100% to 20% then 20% is 1/5th the material. So if 100% is complete infill (with every print run touching its neigbour) 20% only prints 1 of every 5 runs. So you are not printing 4 runs - a run is (nominaly) a nozle width so for a 0.4 nozle the runs are spaced 4 x 0.4 = 1.6mm apart. If you use auto or set the extrusion width to about 0.48 then the spacing is 4 x 0.48 = 1.92mm. frankby MCcarman - Slic3r
Slic3r only produces Gcode so can't directly afect the hardware. I can only assume that you have a Gcode comand that is not compatible with the firmware/hardware. That would be due to a setting in the Slic3r configuration. This may be in your start code settings. Note that start code can be defined in the slicer and host software. Seems like there is a Gcode move command that has a feedrate compoby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
Whats your layer height? Rule of thumb is to not set it greater than 80% of nozle diameter. So for a 0.4 nozle don't use layers greater than 0.32.by MCcarman - Printing
If you tried with higher temperature and your variation is only +/- 2degrees then its not temperature related (assuming the thermistor reads correctly). Its a fairly long bowden tube. Have a good look at how that works - no sharp edges or bad alignment of fittings. If you do a print are the X and Y dimensions the same. If you print a square is it square. If you print a 45deg traingle is it 45 degby MCcarman - Printing
Some of the settings seem strange to me. Default width I would have left on Auto or 20% over nozle size = 0.48. All the infill has the width set to 90% . Why ? That should under extrude. If it looks Ok that may indicate your extruder calibration is wrong. Note that if there is an issue with the extruder not being able to keep up then the calibration will be afected by the speed. So check the caliby MCcarman - Printing
Can someone with knowledge coment on the speed limit settings in the firmware. The slicer will generate the gcode with the speeds you specify but the firmware will limit these to the values set in the config file. And i believe some of them use the lowest value set for all of them. So if you just increase the speeds in slicer these will apear in the Gcode but not be delivered if its limited by thby MCcarman - Printing
Im with Dust. The bed temperature is obviously wrong. Don't forget its the bed heater that runs at 24V not the thermistor. Also you have to solder the proper connections on the bed for 24V not just plug a 12v bed into 24V. How many top layers are you printing? Looks like one so its effectively bridging and you can get some "droop" between supports. I usually run 2 or 3 top layers so as to build sby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
I wouldn't uses the Roses metal as its difficult and local. I believe the tyre kits come with a connector to attach to the tyre. If you modify this and fit a plastic pipe instead of the tyre you can route the pipe all round the cabinet. The pipe can have a nice low melting point - say 100C. This will melt where it is hot and deliver the C02 at the melting point. I wouldn't think you will get 100Cby MCcarman - General
Are the "square" holes the right size? Im trying to decide if the infill is short or the perimeter is wrong. Is that one perimeter? Can't be missing steps or it would get progressively worse. Can't be retraction as it only happens at one end of a run. Are the X and Y motors the same type and have the same step settings. Its almost like a position error on one axis but it doesn't happen on both iby MCcarman - Printing
Im with the Dentist. Looks very like what i have seen with poor temperature control. If you have host software look at the graph of temperature to see if it is stable around the target temperature. If you have an LCD watch the temperature on that. It should be within a few degrees of target. Assuming the wiring, heater and thermistor are not loose it could be a failed driver on the controller orby MCcarman - Printing
So thats what you use PET filament for.by MCcarman - General
Set of hexagone drive drills to clean out holes in prints. Medium cost and high useability Tooth pick set from pound shop is handy. Has a pointy hook for extracting filament wisps, and tweesers. Low cost, low useability Acetone - nail care section in pound shop. A file for print triming. Medium cost and high useability. Temperature meeter. The infrared ones are handy at 1st set up to check bed teby MCcarman - General
Can you turn the hot end 90 degrees so the fan is blowing along the X axis? Looks like you are trying to blow the air into the X cariage. Thats going to restrict the flow.by MCcarman - Printing
There are a lot of historic posts in a similar vain. Tends to be a bigger issue with PLA and/or bowden systems. The bowden uses a larger retract distance and the filament cools in the bowden. If its the same issue you may want to reduce your hot end temperature to the lower end of the range and try reducing the retraction distance. Obviously less retraction gives other issues.by MCcarman - Printing
Out of interest, what is the size of the print? Looks like a big bed. How many solid layers are on the bottom? I think these issues are caused by shrinkage. The larger the "span" the more stress from shrinkage. If it stays stuck to the PEI so it can't shrink in the X-Y plane it tends to warp at the corners. So your PEI is OK its the glue thats giving up. If this is true you could try and change yby MCcarman - General