...and about the temperature difference: Most of the china prusa i3 use the 100K ohm NTC 3950 Thermistors and nobody of the makers has done a good work to wrote down a exact temperature table, so they are about minimum 10 degrees off in high temperatures. (So did I grilled my teflon tube) Best way is to compile your own firmware with this settings in the configuration.h: #define NUM_TEMPS_USERTHby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Over 260C? Do you use a full metal extruder system? Otherwise you will shortly melt/shrink the PTFE tube inside your throat! This is the answer, why there is a temp limit given in the firmware.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Second link: looked very overpriced: Just to compare: --> it's also from china like the ebay one. wade extruder: Why do you don't print it out yourself? --->by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Kleines Update: Es wird gerade eifrig an einem 3d printer controller auf STM32duino gebastelt: bzwby madias - Elektrik & Elektronik
Thanking for sharing your suggestions! At first: Please measure the voltage and compare it with the max A of your stepper motor. I own the hesine m505 printer (they are all look the same with slightly different parts) and my one use 1.68A steppers (all 5 are the same). If you are unsure, there must be a sticker with the serial number on the motor and google for it. Remember: The A4988 gives maxby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Serial upload of the firmware never worked on my melzi board, so I decided to do it the ISP way: Either you have a cheap USBASP dongle at home or you can use an Arduino UNO as programmer (google for UNO as programmer) This worked every time for me, only drawback is that I've to disconnect the LCD (same pins) while upload. (I'm pretty sure that my melzi board was shipped without a bootloader)by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
and thanks for the octaprint tip! looks really amazingby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
They pics are looking....spooky. Looks like a support problem (your angle is impossible to print without supports) and too much space between layers. Try 0.2 layers height and a little bit fan Also - this happend to me: My PTFE (Tefon) tube inside the extruder skrew melted/burnt. This was using excessive temperature (more than 280c) while my thermistor was down. So the end of the tube was very naby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Little offtopic: While browsing about some ideas of wireless printing I got to this: Looks like a nice alternative for BT-06 bluetooth serial modules and thoose ESP's are awful cheap (2-3 USD)by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
for what? imho the x/y axis rails are the most robust parts on this printer. Before doing this you should think about building a complete new frame. dsol: moving the PSU out of the box is a good idea, moving the mainbord out of it also. But you'll need a big multi-connector for all the cables, otherwise the whole thing isn't really hackable anymore. Background: the stepper drivers are under roomby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedsol AND the heat stay !! from 0 (not really, but around 15c) to 80 in no time... to 120 took less then normally do 100c when printing ABS at 120c cant touch the bed.. too hot ! but can freely touch the insulation bottom (its warm, but not hot) the bed is off for ~20-30min now and its only got down to ~50 so i think it safe to say the insulation works! not the best, but works... thanks for tby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
I would prefer the car sunshade and the silicone hot plate You can test it easily with your iron! Setup the iron about 150 degrees (should be enough with headroom) and leave it on the sunshade and/or slicone plate for some minutes. If it smells bad or burn, leave it. I don't know how thick your silicone plate is - the overall thickness should not be over 5mm (otherwise you get in conflict withby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
dsol: about sticky prints: I see on the photos you haven't isolate your heatbed right now. I would do this first, as I wrote before heating time is really speed up and I got about 20 degrees more. Working with ABS is all about the heatbed....and a really slow first layer. And invest in a roll of blue tape. I use blue tape for nearly everything: PLA, ABS, PETG, soft-PLA.... with best (sticky) resuby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
I have an idea about getting rid of the toxic fumes while printing ABS I bought some times ago a cheap extracter for soldering works (from local store, I think Conrad):, like this This device has a real big fan and a filter texture (activated carbon) on the back. So this can be easily insert into the back of a printer box (with little modifications of the extracter housing). : This is the liby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks good! Maybe just two suggestions: A big (slow) fan in the box for cooling the mainboard Some damper material (loudspeaker mat) between box and printer. I guess the whole wooden box acts as noise amplifier without damper.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
blue tape is FAR better. With the "normal" yellow tape I got only bad results. How about your bed temperature? more than 100 degrees? 110 would be perfect. It's also a wise idea to proof the temperature with an external one (there are cheap IR thermometers on ali). On my printer the results were totally off especially with the bed (makes a "jump" after 79 degrees to 90 degrees, so bad thermistorby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekmjee Can you turn this into a dual extruder setup? I would imagine it would require something in the firmware of the unit? Maybe not if you print through the USB cable? Short answer: Not with the melzi board. There is no additional output for a secondary extruder/stepper. With RAMPS 1.4 it is possible.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Better idea would be to heat isolate the bed on the bottom side, you are on limit with PID more is not possible while heating up (I guess output is 100% - unless max drive is not set to 255, but I don't believe that). Gives me massive benefits (I wrote some pages ago: Thermal compounds between heat bed and alu plate and a 5mm styrofoam wrapped in alufoil and the downside of the heat bed and set tby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
@BobbyNi: I have no problems with x-y-z axis, this belongs to other persons here (I need the 1600 steps) . You are right with the temp table. The exercise I have done with various firmwares on the melzi board is only caused by my step upgrading to RAMPS 1.4. So every firmware I uploaded has a source code. My problem is, that for my printer (hesine m505 or so f*** whatever name they use) I have onby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
ok. I'm done with my experiences with the melzi board. Neither firmware I installed is better than the original installed one and for this I do not have the source code. I have my ramps 1.4 on my desk with minimum connections (not to a real printer) and I'll invest my time for it (nearly configurated the firmware from zero). Remember: You can never install a secondary extruder on melzi, it`s notby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
about your megafileupload link: Chrome wont download it: Malware!by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
x y offset: This is easy, insert into the EEPROM settings: EPR:2 231 -3500 Extr.1 X-offset EPR:2 235 -1000 Extr.1 Y-offsetby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
if it is your first printer you should start with PLA first. the shipped lousy yellow tape is a plaque. buy blue tape, mix yourself an ABS juice for printing ABS. also keep in mind bed temperature must 110by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
I wrote every step here in this forum. For short: Uploading Firmware via FTDI wont work for me, so I used a cheap USBASP dongle for uploading. You can also use a Arduino UNO as programmer. For further details google for it. Grab the new firmware from here: For newer Arduino IDE (1.6.xx) you must install the sanguino board with this: easy way: insert the json into the preferences in the IDE sby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok, I think I really solved the issue with the extruder temp: I have done with the new firmware a new calibration look here: I also fixed the (relative) loose thermistor in the hotend. Another step was to set Max PID to 180 (maybe caused by my new PSU) , so the temp curve is much smoother now and I do not have massive "overshoots". With the original firmware the hotend temperature was fluctuatiby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
add for printing flex. filaments: Be careful with your slicer program to change every speed value (except travelling speed): In cura there was too much infill speed for me left corrupting the print, so I set ALL to the default speed parameter (is set with "0" in cura). Also reduce the retraction length/speed. A too high retraction lengths results in stress the weak filaments twice. With higher spby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
13 to13.5 is s save.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
did you increase the voltage of the PSU to 13.5V? and please do a real temperature measuring. my extruder showed 10 degrees less than the real temp.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
bed 80 degrees, blue tape plus abs juice if necessaryby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok: Big problems with the dropbox firmware above! First: home position mismatch (x and y not on the front left skrew, for sure no big problem, could this bet setup in eeprom?) Second and the bigger Problem: Got a "Heater decoupled" message caused by: I set the extruder temp for 180 degrees. It heats up and NEVER stopped, going to 220, 230 and then the error! EDIT: setting extruder heating methodby madias - Prusa i3 and variants