Well, I've since changed to trapezoidal leadscrews and also changed 2 of my driver boards for DRV8825's and probably other stuff that I can't remember, so my current firmware wouldn't work on yours. But, since I used `git clone' to obtain Marlin, I should be able to dig back through the history with git and find a point before the changes and go from there. I'll see what I can do.by hoxsiew - Printing
I have the exact same printer from the same seller (printchainstore). It has a few non-standard parts, mainly the bed thermistor. It is a 50KΩ that I could never find a temperature profile that worked. I replaced the thermistor with a 100KΩ 3950 and it works fine when changed in firmware. It also uses oddball belts and pulleys. As for firmware, I managed to piece together a Marlin build thatby hoxsiew - Printing
I use silicone RTV. It holds the thermistor in and will insulate the wiring preventing shorts.by hoxsiew - Reprappers
I don't know about Repetier, but the later versions of Marlin (I'm using 1.1.0_RC3) have a double-home functionality which is nice. It homes the axis, then backs off and homes it again at a much lower speed. I've found that this eliminates any over/under homing that I was experiencing with the prior firmware. I bought an optical stop for my Z axis, but while waiting for it to arrive, I updatedby hoxsiew - Reprappers
Am I just lucky? I've never had a Z-skip--even when I ran M8x1.25 all-thread. I can print multi-hour long prints for days and every time I "home all" the axes go right where I set them when I last adjusted my z-endstop--and I only ever do that if I take something apart. Is it different with different boards? I have a GT-2560 knockoff. It has a single pololu board for both z-steppers. Theyby hoxsiew - Printing
I completely re-did mine; trapezoidal leadscrews (T8x2 single start, not 4-start) and rigid couplers and bronze nuts made on a lathe. I machined the ends of the leadscrews down to 5 mm so they butt up to the stepper shaft in the coupler.by hoxsiew - Printing
If you saved anything to eeprom, it will persist even when flashing fresh firmware to the board. I found this out the hardway. I disabled eeprom as it's just as easy to just change the settings in Configuration.h and re-flash and not worry about stale settings getting in the way.by hoxsiew - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist What you have described is EXACTLY the problem with dual motor Z axes. Adjusting the X axis to the bed is perfectly wrong! The X axis has to be orthogonal to the Z axis. If you tweak the X axis to match the bed (like certain people at the makerspace keep doing in spite of having it explained to them about 100 times) it may not be orthogonal to the Z axis. The bed shouby hoxsiew - Printing
I have a GT2950 board with a single driver for both z motors. I have actually marked my shafts and they are always perfectly synchronized. Every time I home the axes after a print, the markers always point to the exact same place. I'm running Marlin_1.1.0_rc3.by hoxsiew - Printing
I've had no problems with the non-adjustable part. I did have to do some tuning to get the stepper to stop stalling, and I tried an adjustable version of the tensioner found on thingiverse (), but the lever wouldn't clear the mounting bracket. I re-modeled the STL file to truncate the lever a bit, but it didn't do any better than the stock one so I have it in reserve for now.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Is that from the spool of filament that came with the printer? I've got what looks like the same printer (printchainstore on ebay) and the filament was crap. I bought a spool of Inland PLA from microcenter, made a few adjustments, and it worked a lot better.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
You shouldn't need a firmware change if you just change the LCD (unless you go with a full graphics or something). I pieced the firmware together myself as I had to erase the original. I've made a few mods though: new thermistors (both NTC3950s), new leadscrews (2.0 mm 1-start trapezoidal from 1.25 M8), and 1 DRV8825 board for the extruder stepper (double the microsteps). Shouldn't be too hardby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Check to see what baudrate is being flashed. It's in Configuration.h (marlin). Don't know about other firmwares, but probably similar. Note that flashing usually uses a different baudrate.by hoxsiew - Printing
Mine has two ribbon cables from the board to the display and I recall that there was no indication as to which was which. I plugged them in wrong at first and the display lit up, but nothing else. That might be something to check. Does the printer accept movement commands over USB? May just be a fried display. Are you using the supplied firmware, or have you uploaded something new?by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
It's roughly a Geeetech I3. I re-printed some spares when I got it, but the printed parts have held up fine. Geeetech has their official printed parts available on thingiverse:by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
What is you bed like? I just had about a half-inch of dead space between the y-carriage board and the heat-bed. It didn't affect any dimensions at all (my z-endstop has a ton of adjustment).by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Fiberglass doesn't burn, but it is itchy; wear some gloves. The aluminum foil might if you ground it into a fine dust and mixed it with ammonium nitrate. Cork is probably going to be OK at the temperatures we run at.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
I stuffed a piece of fiberglass insulation between the bed and y-carriage. You can buy a roll of this stuff at big-box stores for like $5.00. Works great. To get the same adhesion with PLA, I dropped my bed temperature from 55°C to 40°C.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
What kind of board do you have? There should be some socketed driver boards on it. They should look something like this (this is NOT a RAMPS board, but uses the same kind of stepper driver boards): The little silver circular thing in the corner is the current adjustment potentiometer. You'll need a small slotted screwdriver to turn it. If you're not very steady, you should use a plastic onby hoxsiew - Printing
It sure looks like you've got a current problem. If you can push the filament through, but the motor can't, then there is not enough torque. A well tuned extruder will pull the filament so hard you can't hold it back by hand. Have you tried adjusting the current using the potentiometer on your stepper driver?by hoxsiew - Printing
Yes. Warnings shouldn't prevent your compile from completing and uploading to the arduino. If it's not compiling, then there must be errors. Can you supply a complete dump of the compiler output?by hoxsiew - Firmware - Marlin
Quotearleseydiver Hi, I've recently just bought one if these as well. I am having similar problems with the thermistors, and rasping on the extruder. When the item arrived, the rods were bent, and the holes had been cut in the wrong places on the frame. Does anyone know if it is possible to backup or download the running firmware on the gt2560 board? Roger I tried several different ways to bby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
That's just a warning. It should still compile and load. The problem is that lcd_implementation_drawedit() is declared as: void lcd_implementation_drawedit(const char* pstr, char* value) In C/C++, a fixed string (the "" passed to the function) gets promoted to "const char *" when the function expects "char *". Since the function doesn't modify "value", it probably should be declared "consby hoxsiew - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteWalkerMaker Yep that's a lead screw. Basically the beefy older brother of threaded rods. Not really. They serve two completely different roles. Threaded rods have 60° ISO threads which are designed for fastening things together (nuts and bolts) whereas lead screws (acme or trapezoidal) are designed for transmitting motion. Threaded rods will work, but they are far from ideal.by hoxsiew - Printing
This is the clip. You can see the fiberglass as well. It helps keep the bed heat even and I find I can use less of a temperature setting and still get good adhesion. I used to set it for 60°C but with the insulation, 45°C gives me good adhesion with PLA.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
I would remove that acryl plate and put a glass plate there instead. You can use plain window pane glass from the hardware store with good results. Have it cut it to fit just inside of the screw heads and hold it down with those fat binder clips. You'll lose a couple of mm of build size, but it's no big deal. I haven't found any glass cutters that can notch the corners for a full-size plate.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Seems like I got something similar once when my hotend bracket came loose from the x-axis slider (MK8-ish clone with aluminum bracket screwed to a printed X-slide). I just tightened up the mounting screws.by hoxsiew - Printing
To ensure no shorting, get some silicone RTV, slide the insulation all the way up the thermistor leads, coat in a small dab of RTV, and let it set. Then, coat the tip of the thermistor again in RTV and set it into the hot end and let it set. it should stay insulated from ground and itself.by hoxsiew - Reprappers
It's hard to find TR8 leadscrews with a single start. Most are 4-start which gives an effective pitch of 8mm instead of 2mm. I just bought some off ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/381551545536]) but without nuts. I'll have to fabricates some (I have a lathe) or keep searching. I plan to cut down the ends of the leadscrew to 5mm (did I mention I have a lathe) and use a rigid 5mm coupler. Alternby hoxsiew - Reprappers