Besides the fuse, I've had no problems with my board. I'm home now so here's the picture I promised:by hoxsiew - General
You're talking about the main cord from the wall socket to the printer? If so, you'll be fine with that.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Perhaps the fuse holder next to it was damaged and causing intermittent failure. That fuse powers everything else but the heated bed.by hoxsiew - General
The schematic shows that it connects to PWM3. I don't know how that compares with pins in pins.h. I have this board in mine and use the BOARD_ULTIMAKER in Configuration.h with no other modifications to any other files. Schematic files are here:by hoxsiew - Reprappers
Some googling seems to indicate that this is might be a MK9 nozzle, but not much info on what machines ever used this setup. That page notes: "Use with 2mm x 3mm PTFE tubes" which matches my dimensions somewhat. Unfortunately, I still can't find a source for teflon tubes with those dimensions. The closest I could come to anything that looks like my heat break is this: but no luck on findiby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
Power for the bed takes the path shown in the attached image.by hoxsiew - Reprappers
What was it defined as in ver 1? What board do you have? I had no access to my original source (generic i3 from ebay). I fought for awhile with a lot of trial and error to get mine working right. I ended up with BOARD_ULTIMAKER for mine. Mine has a generic looking GT2560 board.by hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
I thought maybe the same thing so I broke out the multimeter. My bed measures 1.31 ohms and under full load, the power supply is showing 11.72 volts. This works out to about 9 amps. That shouldn't change by much regardless of how hot the bed is (assuming the resistance doesn't change much with temperature--this is a valid assumption for the materials and temperatures we run at). When the mosfby hoxsiew - General
I ordered a SD board and I'll see how that works out.by hoxsiew - Developers
That fuse is only for the heated bed. Mine blew too, but I don't think it was from over current. The SMD connector soldered to the board was not making good contact so the fuse got really hot and I think damaged the fuse and the holder. I ordered replacements from ebay: While waiting on them to arrive, I soldered a 15 amp automotive type fuse to the board via a couple of short leads. I'mby hoxsiew - General
I've got an ebay prusa i3 with next to nothing "standard". I recently got a clog in my extruder hotend and had to disassemble it and clean it. While doing so I damaged the teflon sleeve and now I need a new one, but I have no idea what kind of nozzle this thing has. Here are some photos: It fits into a mount with no threads and is held in place with a set screw: The teflon tube measureby hoxsiew - Prusa i3 and variants
That's probably not the exact one I bought. I just did a quick digikey search.by hoxsiew - Printing
A thermocouple? that's pretty rare in 3D printers isn't it? I went round and round with the seller of my printer (generic ebay prusa i3) and finally bought a thermistor from digikey with a known good profile in marlin (I'm using a beta 3950 and #11). Made all the difference in the world. I believe this is the link to digikey, but I deleted my original invoice email:by hoxsiew - Printing
The only place in the firmware (current marlin 1.1.0_rc3) that I find that message is in temperature.cpp in the function manage_heater() and only in one part of that function: #if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS) // Is it time to check this extruder's heater? if (watch_heater_next_ms && ms > watch_heater_next_ms) { // Has it failed to increase enough?by hoxsiew - General
Basically, the board is sending current to the heater and expects to see a temperature increase. If it doesn't see enough of an increase within a certain time frame, it assumes the worst and shuts everything down. I think these are the parameters you can play with in Configuration_adv.h: THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD WATCH_TEMP_INCREASEby hoxsiew - General
I've just gotten my reprap all tuned and making decent prints, so I'm ready to do some all-nighters but I can't get a print to make it more than about 5 hours as my laptop connected to my printer keeps shutting itself down due to overheating (that's the message I get from POST when I restart). Running 'top' I see that 'python' is using 80% cpu?!?! I'm running cura which I understand uses python fby hoxsiew - Developers
In the instructions here: they tell you to add some g-code in the config.g and one of those is to allow cold extrudes. Have you done this?by hoxsiew - General
I'm not sure what a paste extruder is. Does it require heat? If not, then Marlin is probably preventing the extruder from moving due to the temperature constraint. Look for EXTRUDE_MINTEMP in Configuration.h. It is set to 170 by default I think. Set it to 0 to disable.by hoxsiew - General
What firmware? I don't know if pronterface can override it, but marlin firmware has a temperature cutoff below which the extruder will not run.by hoxsiew - General
Every "#ifdef" or "#ifndef" needs a corresponding "#endif" Somewhere in your configuration.h file you must have deleted or commented a line with a "#endif" I'd start with a clean Configuration.h, make sure it compiles cleanly, then attempt changes one at a time and make sure it compiles. Edit: Install a diff utility too. That's a quick way to do a side-by-side comparison to show differencesby hoxsiew - General
You should be able to get a clean compile with the code as-is from github. Are you getting errors with a clean code base? If so, something is probably not right with your arduino build environment.by hoxsiew - General
Are you using the latest firmware? I upgraded to 1.1.0_rc3 and (I don't know what my old version was) there's a feature where the "auto home" function drives each axis to its endstop, then reverses and drives them back at a slow speed. This greatly improved consistency in my Z-axis stopping point.by hoxsiew - Printing
Probably just a generic MK8 clone from ebay.by hoxsiew - General
I've got the same one. It appears to be a knock-off of the "Replicator 2" extruder. Unfortunately, the mounting bracket and block are not compatible with anything. The aforementioned tingiverse part won't clear the bracket. Any MK8 hardware won't work with the existing hotend block since it is not threaded. I'm planning on replacing the entire extruder with a MK8 or similar.by hoxsiew - General
QuoteGiantkiller I don't see motors listed either. But the spring loaded end stops are the bomb! My bad. I see the motors in the BOM. But I am still shaky on this. thread-jacking... I'm curious. What should you look for in a motor? I just got my Chinese kit from ebay and have had my share of problems, but the main problem seems to be the extruder motor stalling. It will feed fine for severaby hoxsiew - Reprappers