Buy a LCD display with a card reader. Update firmware to LCD and SD card support. Remember that the 5V regulator on Arduino is shit and you will probably fry it with screen. You need to plug in USB power or just replace the regulator with a standard 7805 reg. So, don't be surprised if your screen is just white and might flicker. If you connect USB and it comes to life -> you have fried yourby Veesta - RAMPS Electronics
What does your slicer preview say about the height? Is this object really 10mm or 20mm? what happens if you turn off auto bed level? First layer extrusion width 200% ? 150% ? 100% ?? What else is constant with every print?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Where is this site hosted? Maybe move this site to And upgrade/convert to phpBB 3.1 while at it?by Veesta - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Ok, what is your layer height and what is your first layer height?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm thinking it might have something to do with top solid layers. Maybe slight over extrusion in n number of layers that eventually mounts to 0.50mm. You have same amount of top solid layers in each print? Just thinking if it possible to set top solid layers to 95-98% and see if it has any effect?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hejsan You need cooling on the cold end because heat from the nozzle will creep up. Without cooling, you will eventually melt your filament inside the cold end and jam it. This fan is always ON when printer is ON. If you have a 12V fan, you could also just wire it directly to the 12V PSU. (Same way as Electronics fan is)by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
There are three fans Extruder fan is ALWAYS ON Electronics fan is ALWAYS ON Print Fan is controlled by Slicer settings.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMiniMfg Yes 1.75 Thanks I don't believe it is 1.75 exact. Maybe something between 1.65 - 1.70 What slicer do you use? and What nozzle? I had similar issues when i let Slic3r decide extrusion width automatically based on nozzle size. I had to define all widths the same as my nozzle and use a digital caliper to measure my 1.75 filament was actually 1.7 Also, is that your first layer in theby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Isn't this normal behavior? Steppers are held in place with current and you cannot force them to move. when your printer is in idle, steppers are released after few moments and you can push them around again.by Veesta - Printing
IDK, but i prefer a reprap oriented seller, who has lots of printer stuffs available. For LCD screens, FYI it might fry the 5V regulator on your Arduino. You can replace it with a bigger 7805 regulator. You know this happens when Arduino/screen only works if you connect your printer to USB. Some RAMPS boards are blind to the jumpers, so you cannot change the stepping at all. It is always the hiby Veesta - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, so you have done homing and this happens when it starts to print. I can see from your configuration, that your size is 195X195X195 All axis should not go beyond 195, because software calculates the distance moved, but i think your real bed size is not 195x195 // Travel limits after homing (units are in mm) #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS 195 #deby Veesta - Printing
Interesting find! I have one of those too. Unfortunately i don't have a program that can open the original PCB files from to see if the bridge is present there. I might believe this was done by some cheapskate just to save on pin headers/jumpers, but failed to tell all the DIYers selling these boards on eBay that the jumpers are not needed. After all, if you cut one wire, you can always fixby Veesta - RAMPS Electronics
Looks like JST connector.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like it is a bed adhesion issue, because nozzle is dragging the filament. Try some glue on the bed. a simple "paper glue" will do, like scotch glue stick.by Veesta - Printing
That's really neat! I'm already thinking of making those plywood sides from flame birch.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJamesK Very nice wiring Veesta! I really must tidy mine up, it's an embarrassment in comparison. No no, this is not mine. This image is borrowed from Toolson collection of P3steel parts. I have that same bracket thou. Nice, orange with a spider web of wires around...by Veesta - Printing
You could replace the 5V fan with a 12V fan and connect it directly to the 12V PSU. Having a simple 5V regulator will do the same, but 12V fan is easier. You can buy these 5V power supplies from eBay, This can be used to power your arduino too, if LCD fries your 5V SMD regulator. The same regulator 7805 can even be soldered directly to the Arduino, once you figure out them legs. (In, Out, Grounby Veesta - RAMPS Electronics
Add cooling fans to your RAMPS? Or replace those fuses with standard blade fuses?by Veesta - Printing
None of those. If you want a design similar to Prusa I3, Get P3steel.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJimmyTime I have had luck with raising my bed temperature from 50 all the way to 70. I currently barely need the Elmer's glue stick, but I use it as cheap insurance anyway. I haven't encountered any drawbacks yet, but am open to finding some Interesting, I can print on the glass, but i use Scotch glue stick mainly to prevent lift from the corners on small parts. I know i can print to theby Veesta - Printing
So, is Orballo a reliable seller or not? I have tax refund coming and I'm looking at a steel frame. Orballo is cheap with unprotected steel frame. (From the images it looks like 2.0) I can paint it myself or leave it sexy rust...by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebrupje You need beefy headers for the heated bed connections. 10A is a lot of current. The cheaper RAMPS will use cheaper components, so you maybe you are better of removing the header and soldering the wires directly. i desoldered those terminals, but unfortunately foil on the board came loose. Gave it a "mental middle finger" and bought a replacement. I'm keeping my original RAMPS for spby Veesta - RAMPS Electronics
You have a different homing speed set in the firmware. Try to adjust it and/or vref until it sounds good.by Veesta - Printing
Revell Contacta Professional seems to hold my TARDIS in one piece. It is a simple plastic modelers glue used to build plastic kits.by Veesta - Printing
I'm using eSun PLA. Don't buy their "PLA" It is rubbish and brittle. As you noticed you can just twist the part and delaminate layers. Get their "PLA+" which is stronger.by Veesta - Printing
eBay sells new (built and ready) RAMPS board around 4-6€ Has the price really come down so much or are these just made from the cheapest parts possible? IIRC, my RAMPS was around 15€ about a year ago. Even full Arduino + RAMPS + stepper drivers + display kit is dirt cheap compared what those kits cost when i had my parts.by Veesta - RAMPS Electronics
Is the print otherwise good? No layer shifting? Do you have an image of the actual print and what it looks like? I think you should just start adding more steps to the calibrated values to get it more accurate. Forget the calibration procedure. Add more steps to your current values, print and measure. Say, +1-2% to the current value. Print and measure. When your part is larger than target. Reduby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Probably one of the mosfets in your RAMPS board has failed. You need to replace it.by Veesta - Printing
Ok, i don't think it would be wise to make a centering shaft coupling, because M5 rod, thread usually "leans" at some direction. thread on the rod is not centered anyway. I'm thinking of using shaft coupler to mitigate this leaning. Ie, thread leans to left -> coupler moves it to right. I've already seen some improvement on the quality by adjusting the shaft couplers as mirrors to each other.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, has anyone tried M5 threaded rod with a long M5 nut? I'm thinking of trying it on the X supports. Also thinking of making a rigid axle coupling, which would center the threaded rod and motor shaft.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants